google did find me a thread on i think the ausie forum and that person wasn't able to drill it out as the magnet was too hard to drill into it's all aluminium around the bolt and that will just melt - i think

This might qualify as the most obscure question on LZ But here it is i have the transfer box drain plug with the magnet in it's nose - a while ago while undoing the offending bolt it broke so I have the broken bit still in its place of normal residence and it isn't leaking i am planning...

For the trailing arm return I have found that using two jacks works a teat - and don't tighten up the nut on the radius arm to chassis cross member one jack under the axle and one under the bottom of the radius arm i bet you the second side that you do will be a quarter of the time needed for...

After doing the intermediate shaft o-ring replacement it could be leaking again - my experience anyway

is that on the top of the fuel tank ?

from the factory they would have had nice neat little rubber bungs in them

As a D1 owner my D1is obviously better than the comparable defender - at least in my experience what got my hackles up about the ND was the 5 year long media blitz of its new itteration Landies have always been an understated - almost an underdog - option that just works i suspect if they...

I think they must work in terms of greatly influencing the air flow to the inlet ports but the weight of that outer inlet being unsupported by anything worries me that it will come lose in any kind of ruff stuff well my 2 c worth

If the intercooler and intake hasn't been cleaned in a couple of years that isn't bad I would clean all the pipes and fittings from the turbo to the inlet manifold as well as wipe out the intake pipe - last couple of inches after the pipe connecting from the oil separator then maybe monitor...

certainly not an expert on the injector pump -but have spent an unhealthy amount of hours reading up etc. from what I understand the pump wants to run at maximum fuel delivery at all times the pin you speak of is actually an inhibitor to stop that section of the pump from doing what it wants...

boost needs a load to come up to the 1 bar you should be getting i have a permanent boost gauge fitted and if I take the revs to 3000 while at standstill i won't even see .3 of a bar but under max acceleration will see 1 bar at 2500 it does sound like air is leaving the system without...

X 2 on the brass plug replace the one on the top of radiator as well while you at it

check the voltage on the solinoid my D1 300 tdi did the same thing and put a relay fed by the same wire to the solinoid and 12 v positive from the battery hope my picture makes sense

Will be following this tread as my "horn' hasn't worked on years - I am under the impression that a new clock spring is required on mine but they cost 400 billion ronts

can you feel any extra power or benefits ?

Another wading plug goes in that hole as well Same size bolt as the one for the bellhousing

97 D1 300 tdi - 7 mm socket fits perfectly my nuts are all silvery and have never replaced the glow plugs

following this one

a sow is ?

On the g/box oil - some of the later R380's on the 300 tdi's were specked to not use ATF - the gbox serial number should be sufficient to find the specked oil by LR having said that mine is a July 97 model and is specked for ATF The whine exactly as mentioned in post one was something I had on...