I hadn’t really noticed the missing trim before (a work vehicle that’s normally full of crap), it would definitely look better with the trim!

No problem!

Nineties and OneTens had a mini-revamp in ‘86 (along with other changes throughout the years). <‘86 would be considered an “early” model.

I’ve got an ‘87 110 SW, I’ll get some pictures tomorrow. I don’t have the inertia reel vanity cover pieces, not sure if they were available in ‘87/88 - they seem a bit advanced!

I’m certainly no auto-electrician, but the early Landies have some of the easiest “electrical systems” to work on of any car still in regular use. How and why the previous owners done what they did is baffling!

Jaysus! What the hell’s going on there!? 😂 Sorry I can’t help, but best of luck!

Haven’t you got yourself in enough trouble by thinking out loud!? 😂 Yes, you’re absolutely right, two strops would be better than one, although the load on one would be well within capability. Two would also be better because you have a failsafe should one strop/ring etc fail.

I fitted a military bumper, which has a central tow point. The next best option is a pair of Jate rings, as others have said, used in conjunction with a strop connected between the two rings and a running shackle along the strop for the recovery strap to attach to.

I use Owatrol, not the cheapest, but works brilliantly.

Might just be the rubber hub caps have failed together. Replace with genuine!

They increases the surface area from which heat can escape from the box, both through the volume of the oil and the actual surface area of the sump. They do help, but I wouldn’t expect anything over a 10% improvement.

Also worth checking the UJs. Recently, my rearmost UJ seized and made a horrible clunk/clang/knock when pulling away, but strangely no noises when moving.

M12(1.75) x 40mm

This one’s just about to end and hasn’t received any bids at £7k! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256513960529?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=77ToZRrwRKe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=aARmbkwzSW-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/buying-a-crock-of-or-if-you-already-have.76002/

At least it’s from a dealer (who quite frankly shouldn’t be allowed to deal in vehicles!), so there is some hope in sending it back. There is a sticky thread in the General Land Rover part of the forum, called something like “Buying a Crock of Sh*te, or if you Already Have”. Definitely worth...

Ahh bugger. That doesn’t look good! Sorry to say that someone has fleeced you out of your well-earned money. Was this from a dealer or private sale?

You might have some air trapped in the master cylinder, or the new master cylinder is dodgy, did you get a good brand?

Cheers mate. Is it possible to extract the old bolt from above? I’ve got some of the “special” bolts on order as part of the fuel tank fixings kit. I couldn’t see how to do it! Mind you, I had had enough of it by then. Bloody rusty piece of **** !

I’ve dropped the fuel tank to do some chassis repairs and I’ll be needing to replace the two captive bolts that hold the rear of the tank/cradle up. Is this possible without major cut-and-shut surgery? Trying to plan ahead for tomorrow, couldn’t work it out today! Cheers