When I put my FL1 g/box back in I couldn't have pushed the pipe on to the buffer chamber/brake servo properly (from the boost solenoid) & it consistently fell off on the way for it's mot which resulted in lots of black smoke on acceleration (& a wooden brake pedal given the pipe it was) so any...

Hi, was that in park or neutral ? I haven't got mine any more as I donated it to my son about two weeks ago otherwise I'd take some pics of it. When I refitted the box & with the selector cable disconnected, I had it in P (which is where I left it when I removed the box) pushed the lever on the...

I have a Foxwell NT530 & programming fobs is in the menu (although I've never had to use it for fobs) . It's been invaluable for most other stuff & it covers all JLR vehicles so I use it my FL1 & D2 but as said for a dedicated FL1 tool you probably can't beat the p scan.

Have you tried moving the inhibitor switch by loosening the 2 10mm head bolts? There isn't much adjustment but it might be enough to stop the 2 lights illuminating at the same time. Also check the white insert in the XYZ (inhibitor switch) is lined up as in the pic. As said mark bits before you...

Hi, after a g/box rebuild (by a specialist due to reverse band failure) mine was 'stuck' in D1, red led showing on g/selector & D1 in the i-pack no matter where the selector lever was positioned, PRND421I also had F4 showing if I tried to turn it over. It turned out to be a faulty XYZ...

I used the Optimal ones from Autodoc on mine (had a noisy bearing but with no play). That was 3 1/2 years ago & it's been fine since.

The Meyle dampers I fitted to mine were blue although slightly darker.

Hi, FL1 or 2 ?

Blimey only took four years for that answer 🤣🤣🤣

I'm with you, is that TC definitely engaging with the oil pump ? I've not long done my FL1 auto. There are 3 stages (on the FL1) you can feel as you slide the TC in, the last being the oil pump engaging, you could then hear squishy noises when you turned the TC. As I mated the box/eng I kept...

Above posted in the wrong bit, what a plank :rolleyes:

This was mine yesterday after chasing rabbits through the undergrowth, his right eye was completely covered so he couldn't see out of it !

If the IRD has been upside-down etc oil has probably found its way past the baffles inside so will get pushed out of the breather. Have you checked the level ? If it's been overfilled the excess will also be pushed out the breather, think the IRD only hold about a litre.

Hi, they don't look too bad, certainly nothing a sandblast & re-paint wouldn't cure.

Or multimeter probes 'testing' continuety & or voltages ?

If you can extend the wires enough (& out of harms way) so you can plug l/h sensor into the r/h 'circuit' & vica versa.

Hi, yes I would replace that, along with the cap, if it's got those small cracks. If it's a TD4 then it shouldn't really lose any coolant, I know mine hasn't & it's close to 180,000 now, apart from when the radiator went & the EGR pipe got a pin hole in it,see pic 🙂.

Hi, it could well have been changed already in that case it( the coating) won't need scraping back but my original pipes had a green tinge to them (which is a plastic coat/sleeve). Have a look at a good clean none corroded bit of brake pipe, say under the bonnet going to the ABS pump & see if...

Hi, not sure what you mean by the HP number. Normally when ordering parts it's registration number or chassis number as this should tell the parts suppliers which is the correct part.

Yes, just cut the corroded bit out ( I went from the flexi hose,which was new, & as far back as I needed to) & replace what you need to. Have a practice on a piece of new pipe (on the bench) at getting the flares right before you tackle the actual job & the only other thing is you'll have to...