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Nathk1990

New Member
Hi all realy need your help afew weeks ago my much loved land rover discovery 2 had major gear box issues so I went out and got a reconditioned auto box and torque converter I filled the torque converter fitted it to the box and then the box to the engine ( converter was slotted in oil pump ) built it all back up and I had no drive at all ATF still poring out the sump so could be beld i also had M AND S light on dash so changed to switch still nothing so I decided to take a gearbox off a land rover I new ran but had axal problems gear box was perfect once again I fitted the gearbox and torque converter and still no drive at all Surly I can't have 3 failed gearboxes in a row am i doing something wrong please help 😀 😊
 
When I had the landy up off 4 wheels I had the transfer box in drive going in all gears no warning lights on dash at all but still no drive is it ment to be in neutral to bleed ???
 
I am getting the feeling that you need to be running through the auto box filling procedure again correctly.
Just some of your comments make me wonder.
Have you got the manual with instructions of how to do it?

J
 
Nathk1990 said:
ATF still poring out the sump
Click to expand...
Does this mean that, with the engine running and having gone through all the gears while topping it up, and then back in neutral you topped it up until it flowed out a bit then put the plug back in BEFORE stopping the engine?
If so, you have got enough fluid in the box and torque converter.
If not, that is what you need to do.
 
I have started the engine gone through all gears then I went to add more atf and it was still poring out I managed to get around 3 ltr in how long do I need to go through the gears for please
 
Nathk1990 said:
I have started the engine gone through all gears then I went to add more atf and it was still poring out I managed to get around 3 ltr in how long do I need to go through the gears for please
Click to expand...
You only need to hold each gear for a couple of seconds, but you may find that it takes more ATF in some gears than in others.
The big deal is that the engine has to be running all the time you do the operation, there has to be ATF circulating through the box as you do it. Right up until you have put the plug back in.
 
Nathk1990 said:
I have started the engine gone through all gears then I went to add more atf and it was still poring out I managed to get around 3 ltr in how long do I need to go through the gears for please
Click to expand...
So you have put 3 ltr in in total?
That is not enough.

J
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You only need to hold each gear for a couple of seconds, but you may find that it takes more ATF in some gears than in others.
The big deal is that the engine has to be running all the time you do the operation, there has to be ATF circulating through the box as you do it. Right up until you have put the plug back in.
Click to expand...
I have done this but I can't get anymore atf in as when I remove the plug its still coming out
 
Nathk1990 said:
I have done this but I can't get anymore atf in as when I remove the plug its still coming out
Click to expand...
OK then you have done it right.
Your problem lies elsewhere.
Do you have any M&S lights coming on?
Does the gear indicator on the dash show what gear you are in and does the light next to the gear selector work properly and show you the same thing?
Does the diagnostic tell you anything.

And finally are you sure that the Transfer box is working as it should?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
OK then you have done it right.
Your problem lies elsewhere.
Do you have any M&S lights coming on?
Does the gear indicator on the dash show what gear you are in and does the light next to the gear selector work properly and show you the same thing?
Does the diagnostic tell you anything.

And finally are you sure that the Transfer box is working as it should?
Click to expand...
I have no lights on and no fault codes been read all my lights and gear lights are working fine aswell could it be the transfer Box ??
 
Nathk1990 said:
I have no lights on and no fault codes been read all my lights and gear lights are working fine aswell could it be the transfer Box ??
Click to expand...
I have never experienced a problem with mine other than when I first bought the vehicle and the transfer box jumped into neutral! Never done it since.
First check that the range selector cable on the Transfer box is in place and correctly connected.
If it is, in a low or high range position, manually lock the difflock, which you can only do under the car, usually. Then turning one propshaft should turn the other. If it doesn't then yes you may have a TG problem.
I am still wondering if you have your XYZ switch set up properly, or if the inside of it shows wear on the contacts.
 
What do the gearbox oil pump tabs look like in the recon you took off (pic).
I cannot think past the fact you only got 3 ltrs in.
Not sure how the XYZ switch lights would affect it as its a manual connection to the box, So would run through the gears (box wise) anyway?

Just a question what engine/age of car and what part of what country do you live in?

J
 
marjon said:
What do the gearbox oil pump tabs look like in the recon you took off (pic).
I cannot think past the fact you only got 3 ltrs in.
Not sure how the XYZ switch lights would affect it as its a manual connection to the box, So would run through the gears (box wise) anyway?

Just a question what engine/age of car and what part of what country do you live in?

J
Click to expand...
It's a 2002 land-rover discovery 2 I'm in South Yorkshire buddy my oil pump tabs or fine I have tried different boxes along the way
 
marjon said:
What do the gearbox oil pump tabs look like in the recon you took off (pic).
I cannot think past the fact you only got 3 ltrs in.
Not sure how the XYZ switch lights would affect it as its a manual connection to the box, So would run through the gears (box wise) anyway?

Just a question what engine/age of car and what part of what country do you live in?

J
Click to expand...
Ah but that is just the point! the XYZ switch etc is not a manual connection to the box UNLESS
you push the M/S switch once it is in "low" and then yes it becomes so. Or more or less.
Otherwise all the gear change lever does is tell the gearbox computer where you would like it to be then it decides what it wants to do!
"Operation of the gear transmission is controlled by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) which is networked to the engine management ECM, to enable the ECU to determine the optimum gearchange point, kick-down point, and to improve the gearchange quality by reducing engine torque at the change points."
 
marjon said:
What do the gearbox oil pump tabs look like in the recon you took off (pic).
I cannot think past the fact you only got 3 ltrs in.
Not sure how the XYZ switch lights would affect it as its a manual connection to the box, So would run through the gears (box wise) anyway?

Just a question what engine/age of car and what part of what country do you live in?

J
Click to expand...
I think it's a 2nd hand box, if you drain the sump you will only get about 3 litres back in.
In reality you would need to do three oil changes to pretty much change it all.
Of course if he drained all the oil then 3lit is not enough.
 
marjon said:
What do the gearbox oil pump tabs look like in the recon you took off (pic).
I cannot think past the fact you only got 3 ltrs in.
Not sure how the XYZ switch lights would affect it as its a manual connection to the box, So would run through the gears (box wise) anyway?

Just a question what engine/age of car and what part of what country do you live in?

J
Click to expand...
I'm with you, is that TC definitely engaging with the oil pump ? I've not long done my FL1 auto. There are 3 stages (on the FL1) you can feel as you slide the TC in, the last being the oil pump engaging, you could then hear squishy noises when you turned the TC. As I mated the box/eng I kept moving the TC so I could still hear the squishy noises & thankfully it all worked great (then driven 170 miles to Hereford as I donated it to my son). The box was dry after the reverse band replacement but the TC still had some oil in it but it still took about 8 litres.
As said you only get about 4 liters out of a D2 oil/filter change (that's all I got out of mine) hence the reason to do it twice within 50 miles to get a bigger percentage of the old oil out. Can you feel or hear any clunk even if there's no drive when selecting D etc ? My FL1 would still make a slight clunk when reverse was selected but would not move due to that broken band (all the forward gears were fine). All the best.
 
Anaconda said:
I think it's a 2nd hand box, if you drain the sump you will only get about 3 litres back in.
In reality you would need to do three oil changes to pretty much change it all.
Of course if he drained all the oil then 3lit is not enough.
Click to expand...
Ok drain and fill of a ZF 4 hpxx regardless will take nearly 5Ltrs then some more after running through the procedure.
To have the box out, even filling the TQ ,then I would expect more. Cooler?

J
 
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