SouthYorks said:

Back again with more foolish questions !
I'm hoping you are a man of patience here.
So got the nut off , measured the excess rod for reassembling.
Removed said nut and let the rod hang loose then turned ignition on engine off and changed through my gears. Park stays illuminated regardless of what gear I put her in.
I'm assuming you meant change gear with the gear stick and not the selector on the gearbox itself .
Do you make this to be a normal response?
In my head I imagine it should still be illuminating each separate gear regardless of what the box is doing ?

Thanks again for reading through the waffle

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Hippo said:

Sorry about that. I assume both barrel connectors were connected as normal? I thought it would allow us to independently check the Led's. Its been some years since I did this to my v6. I must have fudged somefink at the time. Connect the gearbox up as it was before by putting the nut back, using yer marker or measurement.

I think You either have the electronics around the gear lever sensing D and N at the same time by mistake of them being faulty. Or cable/gearbox switch damage. If it were the selector position wrong then you normally only see one Led illuminated, not two. Like putting it in N and D's Led illuminates. Wobble the selector and it corrects itself.

Disconnect the gear selection barrel connector and measure between pins 1 and 2, on both sides of the same barrel connector. Can you find a low resistance with the ignition oft?

Pin / option
1 Drive
2 Neutral
3 position 2
4 position 4
5 position 1
6 inhibit
7 reverse
8 reverse and common
9 park
10 inhibit

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Andy Warren said:

Have you tried moving the inhibitor switch by loosening the 2 10mm head bolts? There isn't much adjustment but it might be enough to stop the 2 lights illuminating at the same time. Also check the white insert in the XYZ (inhibitor switch) is lined up as in the pic. As said mark bits before you loosen anything. Should have said this is in P & there is a keyway in the shaft coming out of the g/box that the white plastic bit in the XYZ switch slides onto, be careful with the switch as the white plastic bit (in the middle of the switch) will be brittle after all this time & you don't want to snap the lug off it which locates it on it's shaft,all the best.

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SouthYorks said:

Funnily enough I've just gone outside to clean the inhibitor switch and play with its alignment as you mentioned.
On doing so I noticed the marking dot does not seem to align as shown in your picture.
I've attached a image below, if anyone could tell me if that's correct or not before I start removing things ! Thanks again lads

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Andy Warren said:

Hi, was that in park or neutral ? I haven't got mine any more as I donated it to my son about two weeks ago otherwise I'd take some pics of it. When I refitted the box & with the selector cable disconnected, I had it in P (which is where I left it when I removed the box) pushed the lever on the bottom of the box all the way forward then reconnected the cable. (That's when my problems started as it just showed D1 in the display & by the gear lever) The Rave manual shows a tool for correct alignment of that XYZ switch but as long as those dots are lined up on the switch (in Park) it should be close enough & might only need a little 'tweak' with what limited adjustment there is by slackening the two 10mm headed bolts. I doubt there's enough adjustment to realign the 'dots' on the switch but it won't hurt to try.

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Hippo said:

I though nudging to lever didn't sewitch oft the second led before. You can alter the position of the selector yerself. Just undo the nut underneath (same one as before) and move the rod forward or backward a bit then tighten the nut. Then test again. You only need the electrics on, engine off, to check the gear lever position. Trial and error. Then repeat until correct.

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