You never forget your first love, once you've got it running properly again she'll soon be asking for the keys 🙂🙂. Hope the cause of the smoking is not too serious🤞.

I think (again) the top bolt came out OK & replaced with a new one but it's the bottom bolts (both sides) which are the problem which is the same as when I did my FL1 struts. Like you say once you've drilled through the shell will give in.

Is this the confession box ? If so I don't own a welder, yet 😲but I want to get a gas mig soon so I'll be after some advice:vb-eyebrows:.

Not sure on the vehicle but I think it's a nut & bolt job.

I would get some colbolt drill bits.

I had a couple of seized strut bolts on my FL1 I spent hours spraying them with penetranting fluid then with the nut flush with the end of the bolts just hitting them backwards & forwards until eventually they started to move. I also (only) used a single hex impact socket (always try to avoid...

I would grind the head off & then if you have enough room drill out what's left, or once the bolt head is off open the strut enough to get it clear then drill or as said above remove the assy to drill on the bench,best of luck.

As above, where is the broken bolt ?

Hi, on mine I joined the rear brake pipes under the drivers door (right hand drive) so had no access issues when flaring the original pipes (as I didn't want leaks on such a critical system). Can you post a picture of the cheap flaring tool so people can avoid it please,all the best.

I know what you mean. As long as you're familiar with what has to come off (have a practice if not) get all the necessary tools laid out & ready then work as quick as possible trying not to burn yourself in the process! All the best.

I doubt glow plugs would have anything to do with it as it's been so mild lately. To help with removal of the glow plugs, spray with penetrating fluid for a couple of days then get the eng. upto temperature.

Thanks for that, I'll recheck at the weekend using the correct scale🙂. The SOC has gone down to 31% today but it still starts the same ! I can't see there being anything wrong with the truck as I wouldn't have thought it would start with a battery that low.

Blimey, a definite lack of quality in those parts ! Where are the gaskets/bolts made ?

Hi Keith, yes there seems to be a blanking plate missing, I think it's something to do with A/C ducting on foreign market models (in hot countries). I've just taken some pics but it won't let me upload them, something about file extensions? I didn't have any issues yesterday so I'll keep trying...

Gutted for you, as you say (and we know) all the time,effort & money spent. Wait 'til you've had a good look as it might be better the devil you know. 🤞 crossed for you,all the best.

That's good as there's no fix apart from replacing the ABS pump.

Have you checked for sticking ABS module? Mine showed a fault on my Foxwell & I get an occasional squeak which I presume is down to that intermittent, sticking ABS module.

There's no need to remove the manifold to access the SM it is a bit tight (with the pipes in the way) but as said long extension(s) 3/8 drive is best for the two bolts. Also as said disconnect battery first (make sure you have the radio code if needed before disconnecting). You could check the...

I would hazard a guess that the whole system holds about a litre so if you wanted to put 1.5 - 2 litres through it you should be ok.

Charged battery all day (disconnected) pic 2, then tonight checked the parasitic drain which was .26mA, pic 1. Is this about right ? Then a couple of pics of it charging once reconnected. All seems OK so I'll see what the SOC is in the morning.