Hi. First post.

Vehicle is a 2003 Freelander 1 TD4i.

It has been the best car I ever owned. And I have had it for 15 years. 155,000 on the clock. I just use it as a run-about now. I do less than 2000ks a year.

Before posting this, I have read through all the related threads. A few weeks ago I began to experience the dreaded intermittent 'nothing' when I turned the key. Following advice in the threads I decided to replace the starter motor connectors with a replacement kit available cheaply on Ebay. Accordingly, following thread advice, I removed the engine cowl, ducting and disconnected a couple of hoses.

But I still can only see the bottom 1/3 of the damn starter and no electric connections. I can just make out the word 'Lucas' on the starter motor. So it is not a Nippon Denso (supposedly fitted to early freelanders). Is a replacement connectors kit available for Lucas starters (I cant see any on Ebay)? Or am I going to have to replace the whole starter motor? (If the starter motor is actually the problem.)

It seems to me I will have to take off the manifold just to be able to actually see the whole starter motor and check electric connections etc.

I am a bit reluctant to do this given the vehicle's age in case I snap a bolt or something.

Grateful for any advice.

If no sound when key turned to crank engine then most likely no power is reaching the starter on the low current lead.

If the contacts are worn in the starter it usually clicks and won't crank.

See if you can find the thin wire to the starter, usually.on a spade connector and remove it to test for 12v when cranking.

If so then clean and replace and try again.

Never seen a Lucas on a TD4 but they have to be same size as holes etc are same on all TD4s.

Disconnect battery to prevent short circuits and use a small mirror and a torch ??

andyfreelandy said:

If no sound when key turned to crank engine then most likely no power is reaching the starter on the low current lead.

If the contacts are worn in the starter it usually clicks and won't crank.

See if you can find the thin wire to the starter, usually.on a spade connector and remove it to test for 12v when cranking.

If so then clean and replace and try again.

Never seen a Lucas on a TD4 but they have to be same size as holes etc are same on all TD4s.

Disconnect battery to prevent short circuits and use a small mirror and a torch ??

Click to expand...

Thanks Andyfreelandy,

But I can't even see the whole starter motor or electric connections even after removing the shroud, ducting and disconnecting hoses. It seems to me I will have to remove the manifold to actually be able to see the SM and electric connections? Also is a replacement contacts kit available for a Lucas SM as is available for a Nippon Denso SM?

Stilgrip said:

It seems to me I will have to remove the manifold to actually be able to see the SM and electric connections?

Click to expand...

not much of a choice .. except to use a torch 'n mirror for an inspection.
the manifold aint too difficult to remove .. the main thing to watch out for,
is Not to over tighten the bolts when refitting it.
M6 bolts are torqued to 10nm / 7 lb.ft
M7 bolts are torqued to 15nm / 11 lb.ft.
the small top bolts are 'captive' type.
.

Remove the manifold don't worry about the bolts and nuts they are not that tight.

Top ones are captive bolts, 10mm

Bottom are four 11mm nuts and one 11mm bolts to the left.

I'm sure i did an how to on here for the starter motor removal and the manifold EGR

Removing the manifold will give you chance to clean it and the EGR remembering to remove the MAP sensor and EGR before cleaning, also the rubber seals they can be reused.

The starter can be removed without removing the manifold but it's harder on a FL1 than the R40 link below.

Thanks hd2 and Arctic2.

I'll give it a go.

Get's a bit confusing. Found this on youtube. This guy claims that the way to go is to remove the battery tray to gain access to the SM. I don't see how you could see the electrical connections by doing that?



When you finally get the starter motor out, can you get a replacement contacts kit for the Lucas SM as you can for a Nippon Denso SM does anybody know?

No I don't think we know as certainly I have never seen a Lucas.

It may be identical to a Denso ?
Check the low current supply before removing starter motor. May be a simple connection.

Thanks Andy I'll check that out.

Stilgrip said:

This guy claims that the way to go is to remove the battery tray to gain access to the SM.

Click to expand...

removing the battery tray would make s.m.bolts removal easier,
but it's not necessary if one has suitable length extensions.
even then it can be fiddly with the top bolt .. but not impossible.

if you do have to remove the s.m. ..
be careful of adjacent sensor wiring plugs.
e.g. the one for hp.pump regulator ..
and i think .. the crankshaft sensor ..
[ i removed just the hp.p.regulator plug to gain a bit more space ]
.

hd3 said:

removing the battery tray would make s.m.bolts removal easier,
but it's not necessary if one has suitable length extensions.
even then it can be fiddly with the top bolt .. but not impossible.

if you do have to remove the s.m. ..
be careful of adjacent sensor wiring plugs.
e.g. the one for hp.pump regulator ..
and i think .. the crankshaft sensor ..
[ i removed just the hp.p.regulator plug to gain a bit more space ]
.

Click to expand...

Thanks Hd3. Duly noted.

There's no need to remove the manifold to access the SM it is a bit tight (with the pipes in the way) but as said long extension(s) 3/8 drive is best for the two bolts. Also as said disconnect battery first (make sure you have the radio code if needed before disconnecting). You could check the battery lead to the SM post first as sometimes these come loose, again you must disconnect battery first others sparks will fly ! All the best. Battery post/cable circled.