What's the purpose of THIS then?

I have no ideea as i didnt check just heard them and swapped them after short time with std dimension

Maybe not cos the 255/70/16 rubbed just a bit at full lock on mine. The fact is that the closer to stock size the better for the vehicle

No... the letters are hexadecimal code so 1B3D is 1/11/3/13

If the fob works it's possible to be the RF receiver which is common failure, fortunately plug ad play...that's why it's clever to have two fobs cos if both fail to unlock the receiver is almost certain. Replace the receiver and if it was that once you can unlock with the fob it's remobilised

i'll be waiting for the result instead of guessing;)

The fact is that the stall test result is not very far from normal so you are quite close, those with serious power issues are not exceeding 1800rpm, anyway before doing it again change the gearbox oil and filter(if the oil is black change it once without filter, go for a drive with many gear...

In this case i rely on what those who invented the stall test concluded and it's definitely a power issue as long as it needs more throttle to achieve the normal boost....

Why, do you suspect that the engine was changed by the PO? cos if the VIN ends with XA......(aka MY 1999) it was fitted from factory with 10P engine that's 100% certain

Very strange, i must admit that i'm running out of ideas, it's very strange to be low power at normal boost even if for that boost more throttle than normal is needed.... what's the air flow and IAT reading at full boost

and with that value you still get low power result on the stall test? .... and confirm whne you checked the injector adjustments did you undo the adjuster screw as when the rocker arm was at full stroke the injector's plunger was loose then tightened untill the plunger bottomed out then one turn...

I must insist, as long as it goes to overboost IMO it's not the turbo, tigthen the wastegate until overboost then one thread back at a time untill it doesnt then it should go to around 1.35 bar boost... 1. did you check the injector's roughness with hawkeye? 2. is the original ECU fitted to the...

Pointed with red arrow(the cable is already passed through it) you have to push a solid wire through it from the engine bay first you can't see anything from inside untill then, see attachments

Google out AMR4888, THIS might be your issue with the passive immobiliser if you didnt fit it to the replacement barrel cos it's there to "communicate" with the fob... though i strongly recommend to buy a second fob too

As it went to overboost with clamped wastegate hose but no improvement no matter how you tighten the rod means that the actuator's spring might be weak and it opens fully at around 1.10 bar.... better replace it

still low then... try to tighten the rod untill you get 230 MAP but IMO you should replace the wastegate actuator (THIS) and make sure that the turbo's wastegate spigot is not sticking and there is no leak at the exhaust manifold cos it should have been more boost with the rod tightened... in...

You said that before i recommended to tighten the wastegate which you said you did so if it doesnt go above that value means it's low, you can calculate the boost exactly by extracting the AAP from MAP(boost = MAP - AAP knowing that 100Kpa = 1 bar) but usually the AAP is around 100 so you should...

downoad and see the "charging and starting" diagram in the attached doc

Hi, a compatible diagnostic tool is needed otherwise it's just a guessing game which can become very expensive in vain

That would be the greatest oddity i've ever seen to have good boost but not enough power ... clamp the pipe which goes to te wastegate valve and see if it goes to overboost or not cos if it doesnt means it's not boosting enough at all ...the "correct boost" which is 1.3 bar on untuned D2...