The main/dip switch is a bit fragile and only has a relatively small contact area - especially the newer blue box replacements. I've had one of these burn out so I'd recommend using relays for a long and happy life (for the switch) - especially if using higher current halogens.

Mazda (a different one to the car makers) was a trade mark of GE and made light bulbs and electronic valves so I think that's the "Mazda" referred to on your lamp unit. If you're fitting halogen replacements wire them via relays - there's articles on using relays on this site. To properly...

Doesn't look like mine - but I've got two fitted! At the end of the day a horn is a horn - if it works. Yes, they usually earth through the mounting point.

And the right grill. Bulkhead doesn't look too bad from the outside, might bode well for the chassis. Does it have an engine?

I need a bulkhead! RHD S3, preferrably in reasonable or restored condition.

Pics would be good - may well be interested if it's in good nick. Mine's like a lace curtain!

What condition is the bulkhead in?

Voltage reg feeds the temp gauge and fuel gauge - if one is moving about the other will be too.

Could be dodgy - says first registered in 72 but has a 64 reg no. Beware and check chassis number but this may be a ringer...

Open the bleed valve, if the pedal won't go down the master cylinder is siezed, if the pedal goes down the master cylinder is OK, pop the slave out, see if it's siezed. If the slave is operating OK then it's in the bellhousing and it's probably a gearbox off job. Good luck!

Well worth adding a couple of relays - the switch will last much longer!

Oh dear - the joys of bodged landy wiring. The good news is that landy electrics are as simple as they get. Find a wiring diagram and try to restore the electrics to standard and you should be OK.

Clunk followed by loss of drive sounds like driveshaft failure. Not sure why the nuts are loose, though. Pop the shafts out (easy job) you'll be able to tell!

Sticking float needle at a guess - strip, clean and rebuild. Get a gasket set first - or a full rebuild kit if you can get one - 'cos the gaskets often break up when you take the carb apart. Instructions and drawings in the book.

Check it's not the wheel bearings - try rocking the wheel horizontally as well...

You normally have to drop the diff out when a half shaft goes to clean out all the bits! Well worth considering replacing both shafts, especially rears as they tend to fatigue fail at a similar age.

Done that myself - not too difficult a job in situ but I wouldn't trust tiewraps - I used jubilee clips!

.....and don't forget, bleed nipple to the top!

Use some sealant on the rubber strip - or get a new rubber strip, your's clearly isn't doing its job properly....

Order is cast into the manifold, don't forget the dizzy goes anticlockwise starting at the plug at the front fed from the HT lead outlet that points to it. Get that right (we've all done it.....) and if it still doesn't run we'll look at other possibilities.