well nice try guys but not the amp. looks like it might be the dizzy as the rotor seem to have alot of vetical travel. might be lifting to much at not making a proper contact in the cap. Anybody heard of this before

v8 on carbs but with late dizzy with amp pack on the side. engine spins but does not fire. its sparks once at the coil and thats all. (tried different coil) any ideas guys???

u might be right about the cam but it should still fire on all cylinders. i want to know why although there is sparks at all 8 why to only a few effect tick over when disconnected. it has the early type amplifer pack under the coil do these give trouble?

okay so i have a 3.5 v8 from an '85 range rover on stromburgs and early electronic ignition (type with an amplifer pack under the coil). so it starts first time every time and ticks over once warm nicly. but the engine just isnt as smooth as a v8 should be and hesitates juat as you pull away...

hi, just posted some pic on the group page. check them out

thanks for the offer but i dont think its the right cam for me, i have a carb 3.5 in a 2 door rrc.

looks like im gonna have to change the cam in my three door rrc, just want to know where the best (and cheapist:)) place to get a kit is? Rpi are rip of bast*£$. im looking for a 3.9 efi standard cam shaft with followers, timing chain and sprokets and all the other gaskets ect. Any body change...

well in an r380 it should be mtf95 not atf. lt77 is atf though

Hello, all just bought myself a very solid 1985 5 speed (lt77 long stick) 2 door range rover (all factory fitted off the production line) its got the later dash and the interior is mint. Right down to the point, the 3.5 is totally stock all breathers ect and running stromburgs. i want...

i found mine on 4x4 web, deepest darkest coventry but it check out

i bought my 90 for 1500 it was a 2.5 na diesel with a galvernized chassis, engine had just had a full rebuild and came with cb and cd player. it was a truck cab and the door were wrotten. It now has a 200tdi and is a soft top with zu alloys and 285 bg at. those parts alone cost more than the 90...

its not normal!!!! my 200 with sit at 80 all day long thats on normal def transfer box too. check your waste gate aint sezied or slightly open. take off the exhaust down pipe and then the cast down pipe off the back of the turbo. then clean it and inspect for cracks. also when reving hard check...

i always fit AP clutchs but valeo or sachs are good quality, dont forget to fit or have fitted a heavy duty clutch arm if you havnt already.

just been out and the AT's on my 90 performed flawlessly very impressed they are 285,75,16 bfg ats and are well worth the price tag. just though i tell you all this well because i can.

just lift up the middle seat and look through the inspection pannel for a big box hanging off the back of the t/box

its the later heads that suffer from the cracked injector linings as land rover in their wisdom made them thinner. if you take out the injectors check the stems for wasting as they tend to do this and it means an new set of injectors unfortunatly

i have a 200tdi conversion in my b reg 90, the glow plugs are wired in but you need to hold the key 3 quarters to get any heat. All through this bad weather i have never need to hold it on any heat, doesnt even spin once and it starts. good quailty battery with a beefy starter motor (not the...

im not talking about the full roll cage just the military style roll hoop. Its a must. Dont quote me on this but insurance may be an issue without. look cool too of course.

just make sure you get the roll bar as well so you can have 3 point seat belts and have a better chance of suriving a crash.

Popping from the exhaust when warm its a 3.9 v8. does it on tick over and then really bad on overrun. changed coil leads plugs head gaskets checked valves (all seal) rotated dizzy and it gets alittle better anticlock wise but comes back. Any ideas guys