The 3dr and 5dr have the same boot floor plan, it is only the commercial 3dr that differs (wider load space)

Sump guard is not critical, but does look better when present, gives the auxiliary belts a bit of protection from stone chips, road grime etc You'll need the basic alum carcass, anything can be added to it, you should find all info required below...

The CV joint can be bought as a separate section, not really a serviceable part. But worth investigating, here's one I prepared earlier Inner driveshaft CV joint, Circlip - Land Rover Photos Taken from a standard CV joint from a rover driveshaft, my money is on it's the same part, can't...

you'll miss the old girl !! maybe the new owner will get that hardtop off once in a while ;);) OOOH Vito, too rich for my blood! best of health to drive the new wagon, I'm sure it will serve you well and the thieving gypsy incident will long be forgotten in no time. ATB

It will be fine, heavy V6 or not! I like the look of the steel wheel, they are 'styled' and have used different tyres over the years, see attachment Left to Right, Goodyear, Bridgestone, Kumho Sometimes lugging heavy payloads ~ 500kgs, never had a problem The downside is 15" wheels...

The different ratios should never have been the case, first came the 0.8%, then LR overcame that by slapping on a VCU. The FL1 was an 8yr business plan, they could have made it twice the machine, but economists build cars, not engineers and designers! MHM and the rest of us are only...

I agree with all the ideas put forward, but for all the new blood in the forum and those who never discussed before Land Rover fudged the ratios (0.8%) pre 2001 due to the prototype (CB40 project) not handling properly (can dig out info if peeps are interested?) These were later changed and...

The good old days indeed ;) I thought ianh1 used a solenoid gear engaging setup..............he was slated at the time IIRC it was only for sandy desert conditions in NZ outback???

For a minute I thought I was watching Britain's got talent, with Ant driving and Dec on camera! keep errr lit !

MHM is right, it's a huge job to even think about, we discussed this a good few years back (in the days before slob was banned lol) You might want to start with below? http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ere-ming-ni-aussietrail-63871.html There were also mega threads with input from Ming...

Very true, things were built to last in them days, most modern parts are probably designed to fail, as economists build cars and not engineers!! I always carry a supply of duct tape and cable ties for those emergencies :)

That's the spirit man! ;) I hear you and heard you the first time :), it's not the nominal price of new clips, it's rising to the challenge and not being defeated by some poxy part (of which there are many in Land Rovers) Takes me back to when I fabricated some cam sprocket locking...

You're missing the point man!! it's the sort of mod I like to do as a roadside repair!

Nicely done :) very sustainable! but errrrrm.................needs more cable ties!!

True, I think it falls within 'Miscellaneous category' in the Freelander 1 faults poll ;)

Cradle Crap, yet another mastermind design from LR :rolleyes: Nothing a pipe bender and crude welding couldn't solve, when the time comes I'll be making a modded one from alum tread plate (in two parts)................purely for ease of fitment

It will let too much engine harmonics through, trust me, I did much trial and error, eventually ditching composite designs for all silicone ones, still going strong 6yrs later. Plus not all tie bar bushes or gearbox mounts are the same diameter across MG, Rover and LR range. 49mm is a figure...

C'mon that's no way for a Novern Irish person to get on !!! If you are still around? Mad Hat Man had posted this on my behalf http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-window-mechanism-repair-121968.html#post2495245 From the beginning, with further annotation/comments than above...

Just push it, the two cables counter balance each other

Ahem ! Here's one I made earlier http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/k-series-engine-mounts-34139.html Those PU are a rip off (OE £30ish includes the metal bar) plus far too hard for an engine bush