The liklihood of it being just those flat surfaces is pretty minimal. Once the outrigger is off, youll probably find the chassis underneath is holed.... Keep poking if you want to do a good job. Have a look at these pics to give an idea what you might be up against: LR Outrigger And RE. doing...

Yeah. When i pulled the 200tdi from the donor disco I took the fuseboard too. Worked well. other conversion pics

Yes.... Tis watery rubbish imho. As for 'paint directly to rust'... No way! 10 years ago when it was that gloopy thick, magically self levelling stuff then maybe.... But since the changed to VOC free its been rubbish. Use it as a topcoat by all means but it is nothing special anymore. I...

I bought a pair from a Honda civic for this job. Way too powerful for a non wheeled bonnet. I can just about move one at a time with my bodyweight compressing against the floor. But if you do go for something strong enough to work, be careful with your wings.... IMHO unless you do some...

I'd use one of the more tried & tested solutions rather than one from a seller calling himself 'supplyshed.biz'! Corrosion Removal | Order Deox-C: A Powerful Rust Remover Is a powder based product I've used and been very happy with. As is their Hydrate 80 product. Have used Jelolite and...

If police / VOSA want to pull you.... from: Road Vehicles Construction and Use Regs 1986 Pepipoo motoring legal forum discussion on this subject

My engine swap was rejected by DVLA too. They sent me a standard letter back (despite the massive pile of photos, donor receipt etc having been sent through) which stated I needed a letter from Land Rover or a qualified body such as RAC confirming the swap. Fortunately there was a name and...

£2-3k? But you'd need to see quality of workmanship and general state of metalwork. £4k should buy a similar spec but possibly on a galv chassis. £1k should buy an original and fairly rusty project.

Thanks for the description seadog. Notch seems to be the norm - can see it on most STC4848 online.... the landy is an 85 ninety.

Thanks. Hopefully the fan isn't knackered... Will look at that. I guess the switch is designed as it is to deal with high currents? May have to look at rebuilding it. Still don't know why that notch is there.

What does the single levered mech actually do? On mine I have a melted electrical terminal and a botched spring contact. I cant work out why there is a notch for the spring halfway through the lever's travel nor why there is a ball notchy thing making the lever click into three positions...

I bought silentcoat from caraudiodirect. Much less than dynamat and seems to do a sound job. Still need to lay the foam and maybe carpet... But if nothing else, the doors now slam with a solid thud! Perhaps a bit pointless on a soft top but each to their own!

Mine.... I followed the advice on 200TDi into Defender - some useful info - by Glencoyne Engineering excellent info & very thorough.

Looks good on that bar. I did my chequer sills with the same stuff and they came out well. But I don't think I'll be doing the wing tops with it as it does seem to scrape off with dirty shoes leaving uncovered serrations (did a test piece with etch prime & used it as a door mat for a bit).

The guys are very local. Not been there before myself but keep meaning to. http://www.safari-engineering.co.uk/

Doesnt sound excessive to me. I paid £38 for my (tub mounted) rollbar to be delivered as it was 25kg before packing.

Sorry can't work out direct links right now. If you go to my main page (as linked in my sig) then use the nav bar to select 'landrover 90' , 'bulkhead & body' , then 'bulkhead' you'll find quite a few photos of my bulkhead strip down & rebuild. Alternately on the homepage it is the second...

Your bulkhead looks borked. That is almost certainly rusting from the inside out.... Which means there is a large amount of steel to chop out and replace. And that is just the areas under the hinges. what are the footells like? and how about the areas above the flaps below the windscreen...

Yes you'd have to remove the paint all round the rusted area to treat the metal. But bear in mind that if it is bubbling beneath what looks like undamaged paint it may well be rusting through from the other side.

Any installer can issue a certificate once an 'inspection fee' has been paid (!). Cost me £30 last time I needed one and the insurer was happy.