You are not on your own with tales of difficult to bleed Landie brakes, this subject comes up every few months. I do not know the answer as I have never failed to bleed and get a "good peddle" I just gravity bleed, that is open the bleed nipple and wait until fluid is running clear. No pumping...

Another thought from the distant memory. Do not shorten the exhaust tube length, they are at a set length to work correctly.

From memory of fitting mine a few years ago. The 4mm pipe was encased in an outer sheath to prevent chafing/freezing? The pump will not work if mounted vertically, it should be at about 60 degrees to allow the ball bearing inside it to move up and down on its seat. Only canes battery on initial...

Eberspacher type of thing, brilliant bit of kit. Had one in my series three and got one of the bigger ones as a workshop heater. Sips fuel and toasty warm.

Most/all ? 2,25 diesels will show the oil light on braking if the oil level is a bit on the low side. I would go along with the injector theory for the rattle/smoke but not the oil consumption. I have had them rattle and smoke with a missplaced sealing washer under the injectors. For all the...

If you are running a normal 2.25 diesel then start with checking the pressure that the injectors pop off at. They should be set at 130/135 bar, this is assuming you have access to a pressure setting pump. It is as simple as setting a tappet to adjust them. Do not rely on so called professional...

Try taking the plug off the back of the alternator and cleaning things up. It may be just a dodgy connection. Otherwise I am with Tottot.

Have you got about 1/16" (1.5mm) free play at the master cylinder push rod ? Take the six screws off the cover plate on the master cylinder/peddle box and check. Adjust using the two 1/2" a/f nuts.

Now you know the size your local fastener supplier if you have one or look on WEB/Ebay for much better prices.

Always used Mintex and no problems. My late 11" braked series three would STOP !

My memory may be fading but has the series three not got a seal in the end of the axle tube ? This could be the reason for oil in drum. Sorry I am late into the thread had a few health issues.

Bite the bullet and buy GB springs. Job done.

With servo brakes on a Landie first thing to check is the free play at the master cylinder push rod. You need around 1/6" 1.5mm in new money.

Mainshaft nut tool here if required.

Plus One for the relays or you will be lucky to get a year out of the switches.

I once had two punctures on the way home from work. Started carrying two spare wheels, one behind the seats and one on the bonnet.

It is a good days work to do the diff and swivels, shimming the preload/fitting new railco bush etc. Have you or your mate got a spring balance ? You will need one to set the pull. If you have not done one before double that time. Don't rush the set up on the swivel it will drive like a dog, get...

What ever you do don't bother with one of those dash mounted fan/heater things that run from ciggy lighter. Apart from making a noise they do little else.

I have run a V8 in (whisper it a 110 Boingy) Dont play with the performance, your right foot looks after the gearbox. Have a careful look at the distributor, most are knackered by now and respond well to replacing the bushes this really smooths out the running when the carbs are set up...

Cheapish and effective is the halogen upgrade. You may want to consider fitting relays to main and dip to look after the column switch.