ben waine said:

So do I un bolt the hubs to look at this :s (like a said I'm new to axle stuff sorry)

Click to expand...

Not Series but apart from disc instead of drum the principle is the same.....should give you an idea anyway...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/swivel-ball-renewal-63808.html

yes.

I've just checked elsewhere and I'm sure it is 52mm.
Here is one 606435 | Hub Nut Spanner - for use with bar

I found the Haynes restoration manual better than the regular Haynes repair manual for work on swivels and hubs. Ideal to have both I've found

Thanks, ill try and sort some ordering tomorrow , thanks heaps to all you lot for helping

Just looked what I ordered:

Hub seal (1980 models onwards) RTC3510
Hub flange gasket 231505
New lock washer for hub nut 217353
Might need new o ring for hub cap seal RTC3516
May need new split pin for castle nut
Pot of grease

That should sort the hub leak.

Can't see the swivel ball seal part number from my past order, i must have ordered it on a different order.

All fairly cheap items - should get change from a £20 note me thinks

Plus about a fiver for the box spanner

Ok had a bit of a play with her today,
Wiped off as much oil as I could off the swivel, shoes and drum, I can lock up all 4 wheels !!!!!! So I think there ok.
I know that's not a solution, just means I can save xyz ammount on brake parts.
Going to attempt the chemi metal, sand paper, and one shot, mainly cuz it's cheap, and I think it will work.
Got the chemi metal ordered, just ordering the new seals, and one shot, ill keep posted when Ive had a go, (might be a weekyet!)

Plastic Padding do a stainless steel epoxy which is brilliant!

Make sure that when you do it the balls are absolutely spotlessly clean, then wipe down with xylene before you spread the epoxy.

Then use a wiper to shape it before it goes off.

It's dead easy if you can do it in a vice.

Thanks for the advice oldseadog, it still hasn't been dispatched yet . I was going to drain the oil wipe, and 'borrow' some grease remover from work

Ok swivels fixed with that filler chemical metal stuff, after been cleaned the seals Didnt look too bad so I thought why not try carrying on how I am.
Now then onto this oil in the drum, really beginning to pi*s me off, the swivels haven't been fixed long enough to tell if its them, as some of you suggested it could be an axle hub seal thingy, thing is, there is no oil at all on the hub, it's on the bottom wheel cylinder (and splattered across the rest of the brakes, but for sure no oil from the hub, (though there could be some hidden way it seeps through?) going to jack it up later, take off the drum, clean it, and leave overnight and see if I can locate it any better, anymore help or suggestions very welcome

I suspect it won't leak being stationary. The hub seal runs on the stub axle when driving and works its way out then. Centrifugal force will move the oil away from the central point to edge of brake backing plate etc.
I can't see how the swivel oil could get into the brakes. The swivels don't turn with the wheels, the seals just wipe over the chalice when you apply steering.

Hmm I see what you mean more now, but the reason I thought the swivels was because the swivel grease was also on the back plate where it had run down, busy this will but ill keep posted on what I find

It sounds like a leak of the hub seal which is behind the inner wheel bearing. There's an oil catcher ring, slot and leak hole which is supposed to catch any leakage and pass it through the backplate where it can run down harmlessley the other side (which it's done), obviously it's been leaking too much! It's probably a congealed mix of oil and grease. You could also have a bad stub axle seal but that shouldn't lead to the brakes.

The hub seal is straightforward to change.

OK folks, do not get mad , I do own a Defender TD5, but this request is about the swivels on an Austin Gipsy Mk IV. The principle is similar, but I am dealing with a heavier bit of engineering. The swivel housing is 40% larger and I suppose shafts and UJ similarly heavier. No new parts available. I have about 4 front axles in total and only two of the swivel housings have smooth chrome on them. I am trying to find an engineering firm able to grind and re-chrome then machine back to original dimension. The only firms that I have found that will do a Land Rover swivel housing tell me they cannot turn a housing that is 8.25 inches across. Anybody know of a company that can do this.? The swivels I am using will be one from the original Gipsy axle (260K) and one from a scrapped vehicle that I know to have done almost as much. Strangely the others I have came from vehicles with fairly low mileages. I think salt on roads and neglect is the cause.
Also a firm that can remold the rubber part of the swivel seals. They are much larger than LR ones and no longer available. of course since in 1868 Leyland gobbled up BMC and immediately stopped production. There must be firms that can remold the rubbers on the original steel body of the seal. That saves having to make the steel exactly the right size..

How do the Defender (SWB) and Gipsy (LWB) compare? Interesting. I love driving the Gipsy, good grip, lovely gearbox and a transfer box that you can select and deselect everything on the move. Enormous articulation of the axles. True and accurate steering with a lock that is just a foot or so more than SWB LR. The Defender is much faster, and probably more economical. The steering however is vague and that has been the case on both TD5s I have owned. Grip off road not as good as Gipsy. The LR is a dirty beast. The extended track means mud thrown up over sides and out the back through the huge holes between body and chassis. Annoying. The Gipsy keeps pretty clean. The best part of the Gipsy is the wonderful gearbox that is greatly over engineered. My current TD5 smashed its main gearbox at 50K. Not amused. After 60 years the gearbox weakness of early LRs should have been cured. Ashcroft got a fair chunk of cash for that one.

Interesting comparison between the two vehicles. Not sure who would re-chrome these days. So many engineering shops are now closed. Although they are Land Rover orientated, Dunsfold Land Rover are very old school and have many contacts in the business. I reckon they might be able to put you on to someone.

Also, you should really fit new brake shoes both sides, so they balance. They're not dear. BUT if you think you can clean the oil off satisfactorily, a good idea is to put one from that side on the other side, and the uncontaminated one on the repaired side, again, so they match. Not recommended, though.

Re Austin Gypsy Simply bearings appear to do oil seals upto 8.5" try your measurements in here.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals-All-Oil-Seals/c19_4463/index.html
Some people have had good success with filling rusted pits on swivel balls with epoxy resin then sanding back to profile.

My memory may be fading but has the series three not got a seal in the end of the axle tube ? This could be the reason for oil in drum. Sorry I am late into the thread had a few health issues.

divie said:

My memory may be fading but has the series three not got a seal in the end of the axle tube ? This could be the reason for oil in drum. Sorry I am late into the thread had a few health issues.

Click to expand...

Item 1 : Axle case oil seal ? depends on age of axle, not always age of vehicle

http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/69