personally i'd buy it as it stands rather than getting it fixed and mot'd.... the reason being is YOU are going to be putting the effort into getting it road legal, once road legal the value of it at least doubles which is when you get the problem of buying it the farmer may decide he wants to...

as already suggested they are spring assisters Aeon spring assisters if you remove them you'll need to take an angle grinder to your axle to remove the cups that have been welded on for them to contact and stay in place, if you don't grind the cups off when you change to standard...

take the exhaust manifold off then you can easily remove the snail from the turbo body to clock it and redrill/retap to refit the wastegate actuator the 300tdi turbo has similar problems but is more complicated to clock

when i broke a halfshaft i popped it into 4x4 and drove on for half a mile, pulled the remnant out and removed the unbroken one, i then removed the diff to find the stub and broken end had ground each other up into shards this made the stub difficult to remove and required a drift and hammer...

my suggestion is for you to familiarise yourself with the various models before buying (S1, S2, S2a and S3) there's many that get advertised as one or the other but in reality aren't, bitsas are acceptable but blatant ringers aren't and you really do need to be able to tell the difference and...

it's definitely not a forestry commision model in my opinion it's a bitsa, the wheelbase does look rather stumpy but to get any true idea of what is actually underneath we need a few chassis pictures the tub could be a genuine factory build even though it looks very odd as the Aussies used to...

my gearbox/transfer box and overdrive are about as oiltight as you can get, they still leak:rofl: if no-where else it'll come from the breathers check your overdrive frequently for the correct level of oil as once they die they can be just as expensive to rebuild as a gearbox all three units...

i rebuilt my chassis (cut off the rear crossmember, gutted and rebuilt the dumb irons and cut out and replaced any other rot) then once i'd completed my painting i used a shutz gun to vapourise a gallon of thinned waxoyl into the inside of my chassis, i still see evidence of it around drain...

--- 88" or 109 ?? in my 88" i run 25 front and 30 rear in my 109 i run 30 front and 40 rear definitely there's some of the play will probably increase the problem of "bump steer" if it isn't leaking it's doubtful you have any oil in it ;)

that's where i'd be looking before removing anything other than the rear support bearing/cover

i wasn't being funny, i know you know there's two different length LT77 and R380 gearboxes it was that i've never heard of a different size LT230, just that there's at least two different ratios i think there is a rare one that is only part time 4x4 but that one is apparently like rocking...

a short LT230 ?? i've never heard of one, pictures ?? dimensions ?? or are you getting mixed up with the Disco LT77 and early 90/110 LT77 main gearbox ??

for me it's 3.54 diffs with 200tdi and Series box, 7.50 tyres and overdrive in both of my Series' as mine are daily drivers, the overdrive is used as a splitter when needed, i don't offroad that often where i need an ultra low ratio so it suits me fine i've a couple of mates with the high ratio...

also check the relay isn't loose in the bottom of the crossmember, a mate has a S2 with a loose relay (i gotta sort out the fix) which has pretty vague steering, everything else is fine and i've adjusted the steering box up to the manuals specification once the bottom of the relay is sorted it...

i think the one in the first photo is the Dunsfold one, i believe there was only 5 ever built (might have only been 3) there's at most four left as number one was broken up and scrapped we were discussing these vehicles on the S2 forum about a week ago (might have been considerably longer as i...

best he break the spanners out then, in my opinion he's got an inflated idea of the value for a project that's on bricks there's a running 109 truckcab on ebay at present, i think for around 1200 and has been there for several weeks which is struggling to get any interest, there was also one...

i'll agree with that i'll also add that the sixpot chassis will have differences to the fourpot chassis due to the longer engine pushing the gearbox backwards forcing a crossmember or two to be in a different place along with engine mounts obviously the tunnel and floorplates are also sixpot...

i ONLY part with my toys if I want to or HAVE to, replacing them with something similarly enjoyable at a later date is never as easy as it may seem especially if the toy you're thinking of selling is one you've built yourself (been there, done that) i've three landrovers (only one on the road)...

from what little i can see in your first and third pictures that you've posted... it looks as if Stevie Wonder had his hands tied behind his back and then given the job of glueing the bits back together with half a packet of chewing gum i suggest you find someone who can weld

being as you're in Oxford (ish) i suggest you pop along to the Banbury Rally at Bloxham later this month, i've organised attendance of the Series2 club stand where we'll have a very smart 109 truck cabbed sixpot with 3/4 tilt there definitely was quite a few built by landrover as a standard...