Paul.G

Paul.G

Active Member
Hi all,

I am looking for advice, I have just bought a Series 2a, it has a 200tdi engine and I was wondering if I could fit the gearbox from my series 1 Discovery, I think it is called an R380.

The reason I am asking this question is that the 2a gearbox is very noisy and sounds like it is needing a rebuild,
Any help or advice will be deeply appreciated

Paul
 
Yes it's not straight forward though. read this Ashcroft Transmissions
Then you need to sort out gearbox mountings, if you use the lt230 you will need a 90 handbrake lever and cable. Plus from what I have read a 90 seat box and floor panels make life easier.
If you search for threads on here it has been done many times.
 
Thanks for the reply Owl, yes it does seem like there is a fair bit involved with the transfer.

Have you any idea what kind of gearbox might be in my Landy, it is a 4speed with a Fairy overdrive, I would like to see if it is possible to quieten this one down a little
 
I know I have to replace all the UJ's as they appear to have some play but I have a whine in 4th too, I am quite good at most things with motors but have never been inside a gearbox, as this is my first classic motor is it possible to repair 4th gear?
 
you have a whine in 4th because its straight through......meaning 1st is engaged and its straight cut, some bearing wear can be factored in too
 
So I have nothing to worry about with the whine, I did think it rather sounded like a straight cut gearbox.

I am going to tackle the UJ's first and see what difference this makes.
I have a slight oil leak for the Gear/Transfere box, I am unsure which as I have not been underneath to investigate yet, is there a common place they usually leak at?
 
Paul.G said:
So I have nothing to worry about with the whine, I did think it rather sounded like a straight cut gearbox.

I am going to tackle the UJ's first and see what difference this makes.
I have a slight oil leak for the Gear/Transfere box, I am unsure which as I have not been underneath to investigate yet, is there a common place they usually leak at?
Click to expand...

They only usually leak from input seal, output seals, transfer to gearbox gasket, drain plugs and transfer sump gasket.....apart from that they're usually pretty good :D
 
Hahaha, I take it that is it needing a full rebuild with all new gaskets and oil then, well I suppose it can only make it better
 
my gearbox/transfer box and overdrive are about as oiltight as you can get, they still leak:rofl:

if no-where else it'll come from the breathers

check your overdrive frequently for the correct level of oil as once they die they can be just as expensive to rebuild as a gearbox

all three units contain thier own oil
 
Hylomar will help to stop leaks but it'll always escape.......I really do need to check my OD level too

Reckon its probably a little low looking at how damp the casing is
 
I will be checking the levels this weekend and having a general clean up to see if I can see where the oil is coming from, I went to buy EP90 from my local motor factor here in Shetland and they told me nobody makes EP90 anymore (funny I can buy it online from a certain site) and they only sell EP80/90, I have read that EP80/90 is no good but would it be ok till I can take delivery of the correct oil?
 
So, all three box's now topped up till my gasket set arrives, there was an inspection plate on top of the overdrive box that was leaking quite bad so I made a temporary gasket with a good old cereal box, seems to be doing it's job just now, there was no gasket just paste :(
 
Last edited:
Just checked the cereal packet gasket, no leakage thankfully, as for paste I will try it on the transfer box inspection plate and see how it goes.

Any idea's if there is an inspection plate on top of the main box as I cannot budge the level plug till I get something strong enough.
 
What you think its the top filler plug could be the thing that holds a detent spring possibly? If its on top of the transfer box don't touch it!

There is an inspection plate (2 I think) on the transfer box but not on the main box. You can remove the top cover and all the detent balls etc... to take a look inside, not too bad a job just don't lose anything as they can ping out on their springs.

If your box is noisy and doesn't change nicely then it probably need a a rebuild. They just wear out as they are old and get tired. Having said that, its effectively a gearbox from the 50's so will never be smooth or quiet compared to a modern box with modern soundproofing. Overdrives do get noisy but only when worn. A lot can be solved with a good bit of sound deadening too. Just make sure the overdrive doesn't run out of oil or it will get noisy! I would jsut buy a good second hand box and swop it then rebuild the old one as a spare. Think about putting in a full synchro s3 box too as they are easier to use and stronger (yes they are cos James Martin said they are:D)

If you want to swop out and put in an R380 then you'll need a short bellhousing stubby one from a defender. Can't remember what models had it but someone else on here will know. Ashcrofts sell them I think. A disco one is too long and will be a pain to do. You'll end up with the gear stick behind you. But a crap r380 is just as noisy and horrible to change gear with as a series box so don't get too excited!
 
After all I managed to remove the plug and level the oil, it is much better now.

Next on the list is the bouncing speedo and there seems to be play in the drive somehow, difficult to explain but if I am on bumpy road I have to lift off accelerator as I get like kangeroo juice, any ideas on this.

I think I might have all syncro box as I do not have to double de-clutch to change any gears
 
Paul.G said:
After all I managed to remove the plug and level the oil, it is much better now.

Next on the list is the bouncing speedo and there seems to be play in the drive somehow, difficult to explain but if I am on bumpy road I have to lift off accelerator as I get like kangeroo juice, any ideas on this.

I think I might have all syncro box as I do not have to double de-clutch to change any gears
Click to expand...

Bonus, all synchro is a luxury. You can get an idea of play in the drivetrain by accelerating in 3rd and lifting off and seeing if you get a bouncing and knocking. If so, it could be prop UJ (rear only check!) or maybe engine or gearbox mounts are past their best. You do get pay in the diffs and gearbox but more than likely its UJs. Check the spring bushes with a pry bar too as they could be causing the axles to move a bit on taking up the drive.
 
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