Whining could be bearing. Smells could be friction plate. Either way you have to dive in and find out. Once you've gone to the effort of getting to the clutch, I'd always do the friction plate and release bearing anyway. Then you may or may not have to do the pressure plate.

Numbers may may on the v5 otherwise a certificate from gaydon will have them on. Wheels are dated. They are worth a lot more if everything's original.

Distortion is common and a jack or winch seems to be an essential aid to "fitting". Untapped holes are a fault (assuming they said they're meant to be cleaned). Missing holes are tricky because many are added over the years, personally I'd rather drill than have an excess.

Then you doomed to pass orangey water for the rest of your life. The waterless stuff is an attractive green colour. Your idea about diesel though, why couldn't you just use a thin engine oil? Should be corrosion free and not boil over too readily.

Evans is the only one I know about, opinion is divided on its worth. Two definite facts are its expensive (but claimed to last forever) and has a lower specific heat capacity than water.

Don't think you're supposed to use undiluted coolant but I can't remember the reason. I tried flushing and changing a number of time, even tried this stuff http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-stay-cool-1-litre.html Still filthy. Recently I rebuilt my engine by mistake and the coolant passages were...

Have you tried immersing it in molasses?

Are you sure it's a landrover engine? The diesel manifold exits downwards unless they have reused the petrol manifold (don't know if it fits) If it's a petrol manifold, use the petrol exhaust. The exhaust runs down and over the g/box cross member then hangs off brackets the rest of the way.

An interesting idea and has the advantage that although you will be sitting in deep water with a wrecked engine, at the heater will be going to stave off hypothermia (unless the electrics short out).

Earth fault or switch. Switch the dip and main wires round to check switch. I wouldn't earth through bolts, there's too much corrosion for it to be reliable. As test, run a long wire from -ve and poke it on various earth connector to see if if it improves. Finally, if they're halogen, I'd put a...

Remove the plug on the top of the tbox and take out the spring and plunger. Remove cover plate and loosen the pinch bolt on the transfer selector fork. Then undo the nuts holding output housing to tbox and the whole housing comes away. Then look down as the locking dog falls on the floor. I...

Won't be in the tbox, look in the output box.

Do you think it's possibly not running on all cylinders until you rev it a bit? A person told me this happened to him (non landrover) and blamed the fact that they revved the nuts off it for the mot.

Carb smoking!!? That sounds really bad. If there's smoke come from the throat, that suggests valve leaking or serious timing issues. If it's the body then it's getting to hot. Rich mixture won't cause smoke (maybe from the exhaust). Running a lead direct from the battery is a good idea to test...

I feel violated but strangely aroused.

You might get more help (or find something) in the freelander sub forum. Does the whine get louder with speed? When you say they took the prop off, is it now 2wd. If it was me, I'd drain the oil from the gear and transfer box and rear diff. To check there was enough oil init and there's no...

Wouldn't say sorted (don't want to tempt fate). It has started but not run for long ( no coolant). Think it was a combination of issues. The valve and injection timing were retarded by a tooth. First couple of times I did it, it was checked and rechecked loads of times. The last time I got over...

Could be wind up but that's most likely if you've been driving on Tarmac for some time in 4wd. The first cover is the double column one on the front of the box where the front prop comes out. There is a shaft that moves with the yellow lever, this can seize here. If it still can't be freed, the...

Probably just gummed up (assuming it was ok before). Possible it's the 4wd lever at the front, see if can be oiled/beaten into moving. Otherwise you'll have to take the cover off.

Think you should try driving the series before deciding. It's much slower and will give a worse ride on bad surfaces. There's a price to pay for simple technology.