It's more complicated than just bore size due to the fact that exhaust is not a flow but a series of pulses. So exhausts are designed so that bore restrictions reflect pressure that are timed to arrive at the valve at the right time to improve scavenging. But that only works at specific revs and...

The Steve Parker system are bigger bore than the standard ones. No idea what it does for performance though.

Might be a good thing to take the body off as presumably it makes inspection/correction of the gubbins easier.

It's not hard to convert although you might have to wait for some parts to come up. But I think it would be cheaper to start with a station wagon

Think you need to get hold of a mic to see what bearing size you need otherwise it's just guessing. It could also be worth trying a different bearing manufacturer as I found two makes of std bearings to give different clearances. And failing a mic, plastigauge will tell you what's going on.

I would advise against pooing the drain plug. Plugs made from metal tend to be far more durable.

To be honest, for that price difference I don't even understand why you're asking the question.

Knowing the engine type might help. But either m10x1.5 or 7/16.

Good luck. And as a fellow victim of an engine shafting, you have my sympathies for the time wasted and stress it causes.

^ what he said.

If you get the new type plugs, yes. Don't wire the old ones like that.

Late to the party. But I disagree with everybody. Clean the bolts and drill them for wire. Then lock and wire them. The bolts on the old motors were already drilled. But I assume it's cheaper to micro bond locking compound than drill the bolts.

Could be just my eyes, but it doesn't look straight to me.

Engine is the same in both auto and manual . First I've heard of a special auto cam! Can't same to find it in the parts book. What is "significant adaptation"? Auto box is same length as manual and bell housing is the same. I guess the flywheel/ torque converter would be different but couldn't...

Far as I know, just replace the shaft and any worn rockers. There's no reference to reaming in the manual. When I did it, it wasn't required as the bronze bush of the rocker was fairly loose fit on the shaft. That said, if the rocker won't go on the shaft, it might need reaming.

Try turning it over before using heaters. If this improves starting, there may be a leak in the fuel system. Otherwise check compression as the engine might just be getting tired. And check the heaters.

If present in all gears then it's probably the main shaft. About the only thing you can do is drain the oil and check for anything unwelcome. Then make sure main shaft nut is tight and there's no movement. Failing that, it's probably spanner time.

Can't actually find a figure. Best I've got is minimal. Mine was 1 thou. End float is important on the gears because too much means jumping out of gear. Not too sure whether the lays haft is as critical, however I machined down the bigger distance piece to get ten minimal float.

Check end float with a dial gauge measuring the in out play of the lays haft. There should be a tiny bit. Put the transfer box on just so you can get the main shaft nut tight. Then check all the gear engage and the shafts turn. If there are incorrect clearances, it can have two gears engaged and...

If one in five are scams, just buy the fifth one. Easy, job done.