Nah, she'll be right. Just clean your hands on the sawdust you pour into the gearbox to quieten it down and punt it on to the next mug.

Will you need to change the injection pump? Or can you just blank off the pipe from the turbo to the pump?

Pressure is 135psi. But no idea apart from that.

Those ones can be fitted without disassembly as they are bonded after fitting. They have the massive disadvantage that you don't have to get naked, smear yourselve in Vaseline and rub leather all over your body.

I do agree but on the other hand (and I don't think I'm a bad person) it's quite exciting with the switching of viewpoints. We just want to know the truth. And anyway, they started it.

Can be fitted to any. Only fitted as "standard"on military.

Clean and degrease. Use seperate flux. If it still doesn't work, maybe it's not copper (seems unlikely though)

If it's a new cylinder and pipe it can take a while for fluid to come through. A pressure bleeder or vacuum pump make happen faster.

sure as I can be about the timing but when I did the leak down test, I backed off the tappets to ensure theŷ were closed. Valves were lapped and fluid tight on the bench,once turned over on the vehicle 2 cylinders are leaking badly. No idea why but this has happened multiple times. I've only...

15j is a 2.5 na diesel. Not a landrover engine, it's a version of the 12j and was fitted to ldv (Sherpa, maybe) vans.

Alas, alackaday. And woe. Weep for me my brethren, for I am undone. The day began so well; turned the engine over to get some oil pressure, primed on the lever then after a few seconds of turning over produced some firing and some black smoke. Some minutes of turning over produced some more...

I think you're implying that genuine parts are the same as replacement but in a jlr box. Whilst I can't say I've seen any swivels, the valve, Pistons and springs I've had recently have been visibly different to the britpart equivalent. Although I do agree that Oem sometimes just means that the...

I'm near Milverton. I've been through corfe once. There was a hill, I think.

With lrdirect, I tend to go with their workshop approved one I.e the ones they fit at their workshop. I'd go for the bearmach with a second thought. Not sure the warranty is even applicable if you fit it yourself.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/19761/DA3181-SWIVEL-HOUSING-KIT-SERIES-2A-3.html Lists all the bits in the kit. You could get seperately or get the kit and buy.. https://www.lrdirect.com/539741-Swivel-Hsg-Ball-S2A-3/ Oem if that's the bits your worried about.

Hot air gun to soften it then pick at it and use wd40 (or try other solvents) to remove glue.

Ooo, I think I see what you did there.

Don't know how to unload videos or if it's possible. I think most people just put a link to the video on Instagram or YouTube. There is one test you could do if you're reasonably confident. Take out an injector and connect back to the fuel but with the nozzle uppermost. Then crank the engine and...

Never lifted them together but I would expect it to be pretty hard if the bulkhead is still in place. If you take the seat unit out, the gear box can be lifted out the passenger side door.

I've seen plastic outer wings before but not every panel. Also not sure it would be lighter to replace thin ally with thicker flash fibre. It's the chassis and bulkhead that cause most of the rust problem anyway. Have a look on eBay etc to what the asking price for equivalent age vehicles is...