sorry I didn't mean the actual battery, just the rating 70ah

btw I have the type you put up in my s1 so I am sure it will be ok

assuming the new one you put up fits - you would have to measure it, looks like it would and the seller says it will - that should be ok - however, it is the same power as the one you have in there, so if you think the existing one isn't powerful enough you may want to go for more ah. it might...

the advice is usually to get the most powerful in terms of cold cranking amps cca and amp hours ah. that you can afford and will fit dimensionally some of the ones for defenders go up to 100 ah and should fit in the tray, I wouldn't get less than 70ah, had a 50ah in my s3 diesel it wasn't...

yes that should be the fuse box, 4 in there, if people have been fiddling you may find the odd in line fuse in the loom, I did. most of my dash was off iirc from when I swapped the bulkhead out, nothing worked afterwards so I had to go through the electrics :D getting the ignition connected...

I have never had a problem with mintex shoes but then I did both series front and rear around the same time 2 years or so ago so my sample size may not be representative :)

series 3 wiring isn't difficult to do though, most/all of what you need is in the manual and you can easily get pointers from peeps on here, I did mine from scratch knowing jack about auto electrics (and my electrics were well bodged as I found out), its just a question of following the wires...

that's why I like mintex shoes, they come ready chamfered

not sure I fancy one of those, must be weird not having a bonnet to look out over. seen some good camper conversions I did drive one of those commer vans a couple of times in the 80's but can't remember how it felt not having much metal out front

dunno about the loo but agree about the 109, those door stickers are a bit naff though.

couple of sweet trucks on the bay ex aus mod ffr 109 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1961-Land-Rover-109-series-ll-Australian-military-Isuzu-2-8-diesel-/331999090296?hash=item4d4cb01678:g:PRkAAOSwNRdX~9qO rapier 130 v8 lpg...

such a list would be useful, you could pick things up nearby instead of ordering and waiting etc. I have often taken a particular bolt to the local hardware shop and they generally have it providing it is metric - or something more or less identical - not an option if you don't have one to...

that is nice and easy on the wallet :D I used to drive to Manchester and back in my 110, whilst I miss the 110 itself I don't miss sitting in it for long journeys :D

so true, had a 5.7 v8 gas guzzler converted to lpg c18 years ago, cost £2k. on the miles I was doing to work I got payback in less than 12 months

plus if you have to pay someone to bring it to you, unless you have a trailer or hire a car transporter, that's going to be 3 or 4 hundred. and we all know restos are more about love than making money, if you cost in your time you won't make anything :D

I let em diagnose it and tow me home then fix at my leisure :D they all say they fix x% by the roadside but I have always needed a tow so maybe they should put except joes' in their ad :D

that's all I have, a card with the breakdown service number on it (in case I lose my phone which has the number in it already)

I think the six pot housing is different, the good thing is that it will bolt straight on to a series 1 2.0l engine apparently, so one could get full synchro easily that way if the 6 pot box was full synchro of course. no idea if you would have to modify props or anything

borg and beck sprung to my mind, recall hearing a lot of good things about them

certainly worth taking on if the seller is reasonable about price. for what he is asking there doesn't want to be much needed to get it moving. bobs estimate is pretty spot on imho I would want the seller to drop a bit. have a good look at the chassis and bulkhead 150 miles is a long way to go...