series 3 wiring isn't difficult to do though, most/all of what you need is in the manual and you can easily get pointers from peeps on here, I did mine from scratch knowing jack about auto electrics (and my electrics were well bodged as I found out), its just a question of following the wires and making sure they all go where they are supposed to as per the manual, taking out anything that doesn't belong. It just takes time, quite a bit of time too :D. But you will know how your electrics work by the end of it.

I would take the red switch out and get it to standard too, once its all working you can put an isolator in and do it properly and know it has been done right.

and the manuals are free to download off the net, haven't got the link anymore but they are there
hi thanks for this it gives me hope.... the bottom of the dash looks ok to remove and then work from there. i goes there fues box if any is the small panel under the steering wheel housing?
 
For sorting out your other intermittent electrical problems you are best checking the common earthing point which is under the bonnet slam panel - simple grill off job and remove and clean the bolt securing them all.

Mine has a starter button which works in the same way as your red switch. I turn the ignition on, turn against the spring for glow plugs and after a few seconds release and press the starter button.
 
hi thanks for this it gives me hope.... the bottom of the dash looks ok to remove and then work from there. i goes there fues box if any is the small panel under the steering wheel housing?

yes that should be the fuse box, 4 in there, if people have been fiddling you may find the odd in line fuse in the loom, I did.

most of my dash was off iirc from when I swapped the bulkhead out, nothing worked afterwards so I had to go through the electrics :D

getting the ignition connected right was the first thing I did, then just did one thing/circuit at a time, as you get each bit working it spurs you on

worst bit was getting the tape off the loom to follow the wires, had no choice as some colours would go into the taped up bit and not come out, and some colours came out that hadn't gone in :D
 
For sorting out your other intermittent electrical problems you are best checking the common earthing point which is under the bonnet slam panel - simple grill off job and remove and clean the bolt securing them all.

Mine has a starter button which works in the same way as your red switch. I turn the ignition on, turn against the spring for glow plugs and after a few seconds release and press the starter button.
Hi thanks for reply. Will check that . But did find if I tapped the dash it sorted bits so hopefully just a loose connection but will take the grill off and look for that . Mine is petrol but that cable does get hot if you try Turning it over for too long!!
 
yes that should be the fuse box, 4 in there, if people have been fiddling you may find the odd in line fuse in the loom, I did.

most of my dash was off iirc from when I swapped the bulkhead out, nothing worked afterwards so I had to go through the electrics :D

getting the ignition connected right was the first thing I did, then just did one thing/circuit at a time, as you get each bit working it spurs you on

worst bit was getting the tape off the loom to follow the wires, had no choice as some colours would go into the taped up bit and not come out, and some colours came out that hadn't gone in :D
Hi yes 4 fuses in that bit . Ok great will have a look
 
The large black wire underneath the green and yellow should be going to the starter motor if your battery is above the solenoid to left of your pic.
ie the left hand terminal going to the battery the rh to starter.
Can you post a pic from further away showing where the other black wire goes.
IMG_0153.JPG

The Right hand terminal also looks to have been burning on the solenoid discolouration at the top.
any of these photos help
[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]
 

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Ok take the nut off the one that has the green and yellow connected pull both wires off.Cut the green and yellow and tape the end up .
Touch the black lead to the other terminal with black lead on starter motor should turn the engine over.
If it does reconnect the black lead and then try a piece of wire from the battery to the small spade terminal between the two connections on the solenoid to see if energising the solenoid will turn the engine over.
 
Ok take the nut off the one that has the green and yellow connected pull both wires off.Cut the green and yellow and tape the end up .
Touch the black lead to the other terminal with black lead on starter motor should turn the engine over.
If it does reconnect the black lead and then try a piece of wire from the battery to the small spade terminal between the two connections on the solenoid to see if energising the solenoid will turn the engine over.
thanks for that. one question ... when i replace that yellow and green cable what size / amp etc should i be getting from the shop? am learning about all this !!! promise.
 
so to start it you have to turn the ignition key to clicks so the dash lights are on then you turn the red key to to turn over the engine but once started you have to turn off the red key or the starter motor will keep turning.

If this is right, then the red key isolator is being used instead of the'start position' on the original ignition switch. Probably because it has failed, as we all know that they do.

It's a horrific way to do it, but if that's all you had lying around on a Sunday, you probably would do. Marginally better than dabbing two wires together.

Get rid of it and the replacement wire, and buy a new ignition switch and connect to the original wiring.

And if there's any more of that green/yellow on the car, buy a fire extinguisher.
 
If this is right, then the red key isolator is being used instead of the'start position' on the original ignition switch. Probably because it has failed, as we all know that they do.

It's a horrific way to do it, but if that's all you had lying around on a Sunday, you probably would do. Marginally better than dabbing two wires together.

Get rid of it and the replacement wire, and buy a new ignition switch and connect to the original wiring.

And if there's any more of that green/yellow on the car, buy a fire extinguisher.
thanks for that. I have just brought a new ignition switch as wont do any harm. as it does click round twice but the final turn to start it does not seem to feel right anyway. am now looking to see if there is a good clear beginners guide to the basic connections behind the dash board as hoping removing that reb switch will not be too much problem. its knowing the right size cable to to purchase so as not to melt cables etc. thanks
 
thanks for that. I have just brought a new ignition switch as wont do any harm. as it does click round twice but the final turn to start it does not seem to feel right anyway. am now looking to see if there is a good clear beginners guide to the basic connections behind the dash board as hoping removing that reb switch will not be too much problem. its knowing the right size cable to to purchase so as not to melt cables etc. thanks

I'm "guessing" here - but if the ignition sw was kaput, (rather than the wiring to it), then... is the original wiring still in place ? - if so I'm hoping a new switch will solve the issue - if only behind the dash - the wire to the starter solenoid might be a whole different problem, groan:(:eek:.

Did you download the series manuals yet ?:)
 
The solenoid with the two large black wires on should have a small spade in the middle between the larger connections hold a piece of cable from positive of battery touch the other end of said wire to the small spade and see if starter tries to turn engine over.
 
hi , update is that a auto electrician came and had a look and it was a really bad job. the solenoid had dies and someone had bypassed it with the cut off switch!!!!!! so that explains the melting cable and slow engine turn over. all been replaced and turns over fine and once choke cable has been refitted it will be fine!!
 
The switches you describe will be 1) for the panel lights (and interior light if you have one, and if the switch has three positions) and 2) for the heater blower.
 

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