Postcode can have a big effect. My son moved to Liverpool and got a quote about double what he'd been paying in rural North Wales

I think you're having the **** taken. I pay about 185 quid fully comp on my defender. Not a classic policy just ordinary insurance including business use. No no claims as I have it on my other vehicle. I'm 50.

Am I the only one that thinks alloys and Defenders don't mix?

I regularly carry stuff directly on the roof of my 110. Long pieces of wood or plywood sheets, plasterboard etc. Stuff that spreads the weight over a wide area is fine. I wouldn't put too much weight up there any more than I wouldn't on a roof rack.

I ain't confusing anything. Just going on information received from a Halewood employee.

They're all sold already but won't be delivered until the faults have been sorted.

No idea of the actual weights but having manhandled a few gearboxes about I'd say max of about 100kg for the two, probably a bit less.

I use my 110 every day but then I am a farmer so it's just being used for what it was designed for. I used to chug about in a 109 truck cab and that was hard work.

The rear door has to be the worst idea anyone ever had. As above I'm in and out of the back of mine all day so there's no way I could put up with a spare wheel anywhere near it. Bonnet gets my vote every time.

There are thousands of disco sports parked outside the Halewood plant waiting to have faults put right. Doesn't bode well does it.

I'm no expert as I don't go in for all these fashionable accessories but surely the turrets are minus 2", ie lower, not higher?

None of the Landies from that period in time are rated to tow 3500kg, except possibly the Range Rover. If you want a "proper" Land Rover capable of towing up to 3500kg you'll need a 90 or 110. Or a Disco or Rangie.

I think you'd need to get a change of use at the planning dept in order to get out of business rates and the council planning bods will probably not be very interested in that.

Don't buy the cheapo ones. Go for GKN or Hardy Spicer. If it's propshaft u/j's you're talking about even the best ones aren't a lot of money and will fit properly and last a lot longer than the cheap rubbish.

You won't need to take the seatbox out on a fender. If you've got an engine crane you can drop the gearbox onto the floor easy enough once you've taken the tunnel out and the middle seat hole cover. It would be slightly easier to manouvre it without the seatbox but it can be done.

Mine's a 92 110 like yours and the gb x member is a bolt on job. The debate is wether it's less work to take out the gearbox or the engine. Did mine a few months ago by dropping the gearbox but having done it both ways I'd say engine out is easier.

Before taking it to bits eliminate the easy stuff first. Change the fuel filter. Bleed it through all the way to the injectors. Take the hose off the turbo and make sure it's free to rotate. Make sure there are no birds nests in the air intake etc. You may well have got the timing wrong but...

Have a fiddle with the hazard light switch it's a common cause of indicator problems.

Spare wheel is a pain in the arse wherever you put it except on the bonnet. Wouldn't consider putting mine anywhere else.

The two 300tdi's I've had were never as good at cold starting as any of the 200s I've had. They never failed to start but took a bit of turning over whereas the 200s fire up as soon as you hit the starter whatever the weather. They also both suffered from head gasket failure which none of the...