I have a funny feeling that Chang may, just possibly, be trolling...

And the left hand one installed - the bottom still needs trimming though!

For reasons I won't bore you with, standard rear corner cappings (the upright bits) are the wrong height for my tub, so I needed either to cut and weld a set, or to make some from scratch. Here's a work-in-progress shot - they still need trimming to length, drilling and riveting. I don't need...

The vehicle is lifted as well. I suppose in the worst case it proves really unstable for any reason, I could create some axle spacers, long half shafts and a longer Panhard rod and increase the track; hopefully it doesn't come to that. I've got a big lathe that would happily handle it all, apart...

Thankyou - that's reassuring. As the only access to the rear is through the back door (will be exported with bench seats) the extra headroom would make quite a difference to the ease of use, particularly for whoever has the furthest forward seat on any given day! It won't be going fast under any...

Does anyone know whether a taller roof has much effect on off-road stability on a Defender? Clearly it puts weight higher up, but an aluminium roof doesn't weigh a great deal. Obviously if I were to add a roof-rack and then load it right up, that would be a different story - but what about...

Agree that the strength is required - but the specific strength (i.e. strength to weight ratio) of the aluminium is the same as steel. You'd clearly need thicker aluminium - about three times thicker - but the end result would be neither weaker nor heavier than the steel it was replacing.

Making the rear tub body cappings out of aluminium would reduce the opportunity for galvanic corrosion. I'm particularly thinking of the vertical corner cappings. Any reason I shouldn't do this? Some thick aluminium, a wooden former, and some time with the panel beating hammers ought to result...

Thankyou. Having had a look and sized up what I need to fit where, I don't think I'll be able to use those brackets as they stand, but will create something of comparable strength to mount to instead. Thanks both for the information.

Hi, I'm fitting a Defender 110 rear tub to my mongrel project truck. The tub evidently sits on the chassis on six rubber pads but I want to make sure I'm aware of all the points where it bolts down. There's a row of fittings across the rear crossmember - could anyone advise where the rest are...

Not sure yet - will depend how long it takes my contact to do the welding. Would reinforcing the axle casing at the same time as correcting the caster interest anyone?

Inclinometer's here. Jig has been reworked (I assembled the components around the axle and welded it together, temporarily missing the rather important requirement to be able to disassemble it afterwards. This left some locknuts inside the axle where I couldn't put a spanner on them. Ahem...

I'm in Derby, though my welding contact's in Leek. Next steps are to get the stiffeners welded on, take some measurements off my vehicle to work out the diff angle I'm after, cut and prep and get it to him. A mutual friend's offered to transport it but is away for a couple of weeks, though he'll...

Axle jig coming together. Vernier scale on each end to set the castor angle. Needs a few stiffeners welding on and it'll be ready to use.

Rear brake disk plate warmer. Tea light goes in the middle.

Another piece - flywheel trivet. Don't think it's a Landy... Stripped, de-rusted, coated with vegetable oil and heated in the oven to form a lacquer coat.

I've ordered all of the bits to make a good-quality welding jig to re-align the end flanges of my 300tdi's front axle, and have a professional welder waiting to do the job. Final price will depend on how much time it takes, but as the jig's pretty comprehensive I'm hoping it won't be more than a...

I'm looking for a dirt cheap pair of radius arms - don't care if the chassis end has been cut about a bit as I want them for a furniture project! Not in a rush though so if yours are good and you want to sell them for what they're worth, I'm probably not your best route :-)

Hi, I'm making some axle mods and looking for a little information. As stock, I believe the front diff nose angle is 12 degrees, giving 3 degrees of castor angle. Two questions: One, can anyone confirm that the above is correct for a Disco 1? Two, and this is what I'm really after - what angle...

Yes, I was aware that the hubs / CVs differed - but it looks (per Ashcroft's site) like the stock shaft has a 32 spline interface into the CV joint. I should at this point confess that I took a closer look at my Disco this morning and realised that I'm using all of the swivel travel already, so...