That would be a relief since I've scrapped the body already. This retrofit didn't occur to me until after the body was gone. I'll check what plugs I have over the weekend.

Here's my donor chassis, which I'm breaking. It should be simple enough to take whatever connectors and wiring I need from it. Maybe a bit harder to do a good job of integrating them to the non-ACE chassis harness. Would I also need the harness from the body where the ACE ECU sits? Would the...

Ok, so a non-ACE car may not have all of the harness plugs on the chassis under the driver's seat if it ACE wasn't fitted from new?

Why would this be a problem?

Thanks for the replies. I know the system on my donor vehicle works. I have the body off so I can see the whole thing and how it works. It looks quite simple and I find it odd that it seems to cause some people a lot of headaches. I can also remove it easily. Retrofitting to my non ACE D2 is...

I do all of my own work and pure maintenance costs no more than £200 PA I reckon. Fixing broken/missing things from previous owners, well that’s a lot more.

I bought a front shock recently and the choice was different depending if the car had ACE or rear air bags or rear springs (I think). Which length of spring you need for which option I could not say.

My understanding of gas struts is that the gas helps prevent the oil from foaming. Not that they are stiffer. Or are they?

I hear a lot of people complain that their ACE system doesn’t work properly and that it sometimes gets ripped out. Like the air suspension that people often rip out for springs. I have a complete working ACE system from a scrapped car, is it worth retro fitting it to my main car? I didn’t...

It’s blue. The body has gone now.

Anyone want a D2 body for a project before I scrap it? £200, can deliver. Paint code 602

I make a point now of sending stuff back at their expense and I also have a black list of companies who p*** me off. I won't buy from them again.

Maybe injector seals? Combustion gasses getting past seals and pressurising the fuel rail.

Then you have a fault/short elsewhere. Or elsewwhere in the ECU.

I remember that the later pistons had an offset bowl. Maybe something to help combustion. As such, you probably shouldn't mix pistons. These rings at Bearmach say from VIN 2A622424. Does that match your vehicle?

I believe that the later rocker may compress the injector plunger more than the earlier one so if changing to black injectors, you would need the earlier rocker too. Easier to change the ECU to the later type - or buy a 10p engine (which I have for sale just rebuilt!) I might have the ECU too...

Looks like it might work but your gun will be on display. Everything I’ve heard tells me to keep it out of sight.

There’s a guy on You Tube called Britannic Restorations who does a lot of videos on 200 & 300 TDis. You’ll have to search his channel for a video on 200 timing.

Yes, I was aware that the local shop can cut keys but I’m also wary of cutting a new key from a very worn (and bent) original. Surely better if one could be cut from the original code. I’ll give the MD a look for that code, thanks.

Have you used these guys yourself or did you just search for them? Any idea how to get a key code so they can cut the key remotely? They mention a vehicles security card but is there another way to find the key code?