jonny mac · Jan 20, 2012

Nrgserv: pics 1,2+3 god damn!!! Fair play for tackling that! Tidy job aswell. Ive nearly finished replacing my boot floor, hopefully be finished tomoz. Id never welded or worked on any cars before my disco, its daunting at first but just get stuck in and try not to think about the job as a whole. Theres a lot of good advice on here which i recieved as i was getting started. these are some before and after pictures taken during the process:

duker996 · Jan 20, 2012

Thanks for your kind words guys, I now feel a second wave of confidence/motivation!! And if I can get my work half as neat as yours nrgserv then I'll be a happy man! I'm in the west midlands, I'm a bit phobic of putting my exact location as It's a very small place and I don't like to think someone can know my Landy inside and out, what bits are on it and Know where to find it. Or am I being paranoid? The voices said I wasn't :crazy:

Now it's question time........The parts I'm going to plate ideally I'd like to put infills in and do butt welds or am I off my head?! Should I just cut the pieces bigger and lap weld it? I really wanted to weld all the way around a new boot floor But have found out they were only tack welded from the factory, what would you do? What precautions do you take before welding, disconnect the battery? Do I need to remove the sagging roof lining? And what about the brown stuff stuck on the sides(the sheets with little holes in the pictures), Is it flammable or ok to leave it in place? When I'm welding by the wheel arch and sides should I really remove the outside panels like MrNoisy did so I can see whats going on behind? And lastly do I need to remove the fuel tank for grinding/welding near by. :yawn:

duker996 · Jan 20, 2012

jonny mac said:
Nrgserv: pics 1,2+3 god damn!!! Fair play for tackling that! Tidy job aswell. Ive nearly finished replacing my boot floor, hopefully be finished tomoz. Id never welded or worked on any cars before my disco, its daunting at first but just get stuck in and try not to think about the job as a whole. Theres a lot of good advice on here which i recieved as i was getting started. these are some before and after pictures taken during the process:

Some nice looking work there fella. It's also my first time welding so it'll go well hopefully! What primers and paints did you use? I've asked this a lot but I like to know what different people choose.

nrgserv · Jan 20, 2012

some more, and i've discovered how to get big piccies on!

left hand side you can see a shiny bit where a patch was welded over the holes. that was the only weld on the patch!

all that grey stuff round the bottom of wheel arch was some sort of sealer. very few welds tho....

some more of a disco i went to look at for a mate (ebay special) was sopposed to have had a good second hand boot floor put in. in reality, thats all it did have. the odd tack weld here and there and nowt else done. ended up with a complete body x member fabrication and the wheelarches and side doing. pain in the arse as i initially told him "it would need a bit of welding" from when we viewed it. thanks whoever botched this in, if your reading it!

duker996 · Jan 20, 2012

All of a sudden I feel A LOT better! Hell that's rusty! Do you have any pics of the repaired patches near the arches and on the passenger side near the dickie seat? These are the bits I'm stressing about most!

Mr Noisy · Jan 20, 2012

nrgserv said:
some more, and i've discovered how to get big piccies on!

left hand side you can see a shiny bit where a patch was welded over the holes. that was the only weld on the patch!

all that grey stuff round the bottom of wheel arch was some sort of sealer. very few welds tho....

some more of a disco i went to look at for a mate (ebay special) was sopposed to have had a good second hand boot floor put in. in reality, thats all it did have. the odd tack weld here and there and nowt else done. ended up with a complete body x member fabrication and the wheelarches and side doing. pain in the arse as i initially told him "it would need a bit of welding" from when we viewed it. thanks whoever botched this in, if your reading it!

Yeah it's a proper rotter that one mate, not many you see that bad. I had to go four inches into my rmost side panels, most side panels are still intact by the looks of things.

nrgserv · Jan 20, 2012

gonna have to find some more finished piccies now

i usually remove as little as necersary, but enough to do the job.
most of the internals come out, never had to remove an external rear panel.
prep is important, get back to decent steel, if its "out of sight" then i lap weld.
if its visible (like on rear wheelarch door slam) then its either "let in" (butt weld) or plated from behind and built up with weld. i dont use body filler!

the black stuff your on about is flammable! grind off minimum 2 inch from weld site, and you still melt it / set fire to it. have a pop bottle of water handy, and a hosepipe / extingisher.

remove fuel tank if you deem it necersary. ive plug welded floors to supports, but wouldnt do a continuous run without sliding a sheet of steel as protection, or removing it.

internals are painted with whatever metal paint i have kicking about, under side is tetrashutz'd with the airline attachment. highly recomend getting one of these as it fires underseal everywhere a brush cant get.
west midlands is sound, your not local so i aint gonna pop round to help! (in the nicest possible way!)

bear in mind that my "projects" are mates motors that need an mot. its not restoration work as the time or funds does not allow. i consider it "the better side " of mot welding. ie its not gonna need doing again for a good few years.

nrgserv · Jan 20, 2012

duker996 said:
All of a sudden I feel A LOT better! Hell that's rusty! Do you have any pics of the repaired patches near the arches and on the passenger side near the dickie seat? These are the bits I'm stressing about most!

if i cant find them, i'll remove his carpet next time i see him an tek some more

spent loads of time on the nearside rear to get the pressings so the dickie seat could go back in. then he sez "oh werent gonna put em back" :doh:

jonny mac · Jan 20, 2012

Use a wire brush attachment on your grinder to get as much of the rust off as you can where your gonna try and save then I used a product called "kurust" which is supposed to kill the rust and leave you with a paintable surface. It goes on like a milky colour if I remember correctly and after 10 mins or so goes blueish, that's how you know it's worked (you can see some that i hadn't yet painted over on the tub on the 5th or 6th picture) On the chassis I then painted a coat of red oxide and then about two or three coats of black hammerite. I didn't bother with the red oxide on the boot floor surrounds/sides as you can paint hammerite directly onto rust but the chassis was worth the extra time and effort.once the floor pan is in I will seam seal anywhere that has been welded and give it all another coat of hammerite. I have had my sills patched about 18 months back before I started doing it myself and after they were done I coated them in 2 or 3 coats of tetraseal underseal or Sumat like that I think and since then they have been great to be fair. Oh ye, before I used the wire brush attachment on the chassis etc I pressure washed everything I could get to, that things a god send and gets a hell of a lot off that you don't want on there. I think when I put the boot floor in tomorrow I'm going to spot weld it in as appose to seam welding it and then seam seal right around all the edges. Hope this helps

duker996 · Jan 20, 2012

Thanks for the advice, the more I get the happier I am to tackle! All I need now is some money, argon/co2, regulator, repair panels and time.......not much really! And if you could get those pics I'd be a happy man

jonny mac · Jan 20, 2012

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_179549_langId_-1_categoryId_165594

The Mad Hat Man · Jan 20, 2012

jonny mac said:
Halfords | Hammerite Kurust 90ml

better still - the litre bottles

.

jonny mac · Jan 20, 2012

Ye why not, it's cheap enough

duker996 · Jan 22, 2012

I've been having a good practice with my welder today and this is how it looks. The top weld is the best I have done so far and that was with on/off pulsing the welder. Hopefully they will get better when I get argon and not just co2. Your opinions please....

robint · Jan 22, 2012

ive seen alot worst than that

GreenHornet · Jan 22, 2012

I have seen worse as well. Good penetration which is key when welding.

Instead of off on pulsing you need to make slow and steady circles as you would when icing a cake. Also practice welding a but joint as this is going to be a common practice for you whilst patching. Finally you can move to lap joints where as you weld the bottom plate,myou can get the weld to run towards the edge of the overlapping material.

duker996 · Jan 22, 2012

I popped the pics on the welding forum too and someone suggested I up the power settings to get more penetration

I was warping the metal before so that's why I opted to do the on/off pulsing, although if you did your disco without pulsing I'm sure it'll be fine. I will have to give the little circles a try too. Here's a pic of a butt weld I did before I got my settings anywhere near right

Mr Noisy · Jan 22, 2012

I welded all my disco with overlap, didn't do hardly any butt joints as far as I can remember!

Mr Noisy · Jan 22, 2012

Looks good anyway mate, try some overlaps. If you can get both bits of metal glowing equally red when you're done and the weld looks right I think you'll find it'll be good to go!

1spin · Jan 22, 2012

its all good welding nice clean fresh metal , the fun begins on the 15 year old stuff

crack on mate, it will all come good. when you start welding stuff thats thin , and it starts blowing holes , turn the power down one, and try again , also helps if you also turn down your wire speed alittle to... its all trial and error, untill you find a setup that works for you and the weld...

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