Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Pah, tis easy tbh, especially if it's a case of just bodging your car together.
My advice, sills first, they're the easiest so by the time you get to the tough stuff you'll be quite competent.
Get a few bits of 2mm steel, weld them together, weld that to that etc, it's easy cos it's thicker than 1.2 (car panel) but not too thick for you not to get the feel of it.
Cheers
My advice, sills first, they're the easiest so by the time you get to the tough stuff you'll be quite competent.
Get a few bits of 2mm steel, weld them together, weld that to that etc, it's easy cos it's thicker than 1.2 (car panel) but not too thick for you not to get the feel of it.
Cheers
lazydog
Well-Known Member
you should be able to get a manual here
Clarke Mig Welders - Download Manuals and User Guides
Clarke Mig Welders - Download Manuals and User Guides
duker996
Active Member
Thanks, I have looked on there but it shows the 150TE with a dial for the current and not 3 switches! The 100E is pictured with the 3 switches but surely the settings in the chart would be different for my machine being higher amp?
duker996
Active Member
duker996
Active Member
There's a bit on there that reads "push A for positions 2-3". So I'm thinking 1 is 1, A-2 is 2 and A-3 is 3. So mine in the picture is set on 2-MIN, that make sense?! So there's position 1-3 then min-max. Which means I can use the guide in the 150TE instructions as the dial is just 1-3 and then min-max.
Gandalf The Grey
Member
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
So yesterday I made a purchase
Hey thats similar to mine but I dont have the A button so cant help on that.
Nice helmet too - I am looking at upgrading my auto helmet to a nice skull painted one
UmmmmWelding is easy once you find a nice setting. Plenty of parctice and that will build your confidence. I am happy to tackle anything now where as when I started I was very apprehensive
Could A be for Ali when using special wire????
Yes. Position 1 is 1 alone, to use settings 2 and 3 button 1 has to be on the A position
( I have this welder at home)
duker996
Active Member
Yes. Position 1 is 1 alone, to use settings 2 and 3 button 1 has to be on the A position
( I have this welder at home)
Thank you, you said what I was trying to say but without going on and on and on and on and on and on.........
duker996
Active Member
Hey thats similar to mine but I dont have the A button so cant help on that.
Nice helmet too - I am looking at upgrading my auto helmet to a nice skull painted one
Welding is easy once you find a nice setting. Plenty of parctice and that will build your confidence. I am happy to tackle anything now where as when I started I was very apprehensive
Could A be for Ali when using special wire????
I was going to get an eagle mask that was £60 then I saw this one for £70 and just had to buy it!! Its exactly the same mask but a different pattern....I guess a black one would be £50!
That's what I'm doing at the moment, trying to figure out the best settings on scrap pieces. Once I've done that I'll spend an hour or two practicing for neatness then get stuck into my disco!
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Predation is your best friend. Always, without exception go back to clean full width metal. Trust me you will always end up there even after you have tried cutting corners. So best go back to fresh metal straight away.
Next use a piece of cardboard to make your templates for patches. It is much easier to trim cardboard than metal sheet and less noisy. I made several templates up then I could get the most out of my patching sheet and then also, I could just spend a half hour welding without interruption. This time helps learn quicker as you get a feel for the welder.
Always chamfer thicker metals so you are welding in a groove as this promotes better penetration.
Once welded I strongly suggest seam sealer. I got mine off of eBay and the best is tiger seal. DO NOT USE BATHROOM SEALANT. I have no leaks at all through any of my welds and it is this water penetration that rots the metal out, hence why rot is always at the edges.
Finally prime with zinc primer or good old red oxide.
Once sealed
Next use a piece of cardboard to make your templates for patches. It is much easier to trim cardboard than metal sheet and less noisy. I made several templates up then I could get the most out of my patching sheet and then also, I could just spend a half hour welding without interruption. This time helps learn quicker as you get a feel for the welder.
Always chamfer thicker metals so you are welding in a groove as this promotes better penetration.
Once welded I strongly suggest seam sealer. I got mine off of eBay and the best is tiger seal. DO NOT USE BATHROOM SEALANT. I have no leaks at all through any of my welds and it is this water penetration that rots the metal out, hence why rot is always at the edges.
Finally prime with zinc primer or good old red oxide.
Once sealed
duker996
Active Member
Thanks for the tips guys, I've taken them all on board. Been having a play with the welder today on some scrap pieces and slowly getting a feel for it. Still not as consistent as I'd like to be, but a big improvement. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get a bigger bottle of argon/co2 as I only have the little disposable co2 at the moment.
A bloke I know has told me to use "zinc tech panels" for patching but I've never heard of them! Any one shed any light on these and where to buy them from? All the other panels will be from yrm or easy on panels on egay.
A bloke I know has told me to use "zinc tech panels" for patching but I've never heard of them! Any one shed any light on these and where to buy them from? All the other panels will be from yrm or easy on panels on egay.
