Rob 90
Active Member
Made one out of a small gas bottle a couple of years ago for my caravan. It works well I used an old exhaust pipe for the chimney.
Just rely on drafts for air intake but like your idea of a pipe to the outside i might add this to mine could put a gate valve in to control the draft.
Just rely on drafts for air intake but like your idea of a pipe to the outside i might add this to mine could put a gate valve in to control the draft.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Ive been trying to get a second hand valve but with no luck. Not many three inch ones about. Not that It would need a full 3 inch 90% of the time.
David Leech
Well-Known Member
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
The issue was with the air intakes coming from the front of the caravan. Ok when dry but bundling along in the rain will undoubtedly flood the pipes and let water into the stove. I have settled for a slide damper on the main intake and nothing on the secondary one. I will just have to create a couple of transit bungs that will need to be fitted on the outside when towing.
Could make up something like this to control the air intake?.....
The alternative is to take the air from under the trailer with the addition of elbows and the like. I’ll wing it when the time comes and botch something together that will get away with it.
Rob 90
Active Member
My little wood burner is plenty to heat the small caravan even in winter I can fill it and close the burner door so not too much draft and it will go all night with just a gentle flame. I found though when no wind and raining or foggy sometimes it would not burn too well so I made a chimney extension which just slides on and i take it off when towing. I am going to weld a bit of 1" steel pipe with just a normal brass gate valve in it and a hole out the side, probably just leave it flush and put something like a fridge vent over it on the outside. I have plans to one day maybe mount it on a sankey chassis. Be interested to see your trailer when done.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
See if you can knock up a dragon cowl. They rotate in the wind and help the draw. There are a few diy vids on utube.
Looks like we have the makings of a Landyzone bug out club.
Just your own?!!Oh and I refuse to drink my own urine.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Found a long stainless steel part threaded bolt this morning. Looks like I have the makings of a latch. Only problem is the brushes have just gone in mi grinder.
I don’t think they are available with the correct clip on top. Well I can’t find any from the manufacturer. It would seem they have moved on in the hope punters will just buy another grinder.
I have saved the original clips and will solder them onto some generic new ones.
I don’t think they are available with the correct clip on top. Well I can’t find any from the manufacturer. It would seem they have moved on in the hope punters will just buy another grinder
.I have saved the original clips and will solder them onto some generic new ones.
Snaggapuss
Active Member
thanks for an enjoyable Sunday afternoon read, looking forward to the next instalment. I like the dragon flu, might try to make one for my workshop so more pics please.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
With angle grinder in full force it was onto the handle for the slidey trappy air intake thingimibob. Also got a bit of spray on it after a quick polish up coz things wuz starting to rust.
Open and shut...................... it reaches round the side so you can adjust without reaching round the stove;
Then onto the pie tin. Not joking................................ You can still see the none stick inside.
It fits the stove pipe nicely. I just have to tidy up the crappy welding and paint it.
Then it was onto the latch. I ran out of bothered with a fancy one and plumped for a stainless bolt with a heavy washer welded on it, the head cut off and batted over to form a turney shutty thing that wont work loose when ont road.
Next is to drill and tap a iccle bolt in the door edge to engage in a slot I will turn on the pillar drill in the shaft.
When thats all done it will be glass retaining clips, and glass. Not put the pegs through the side yet either to hold the grate in place.
I can give it a test fire then and realize it wont work and throw it in the skip.........................
Open and shut...................... it reaches round the side so you can adjust without reaching round the stove;
Then onto the pie tin. Not joking................................ You can still see the none stick inside.
It fits the stove pipe nicely. I just have to tidy up the crappy welding and paint it.
Then it was onto the latch. I ran out of bothered with a fancy one and plumped for a stainless bolt with a heavy washer welded on it, the head cut off and batted over to form a turney shutty thing that wont work loose when ont road.
Next is to drill and tap a iccle bolt in the door edge to engage in a slot I will turn on the pillar drill in the shaft.
When thats all done
it will be glass retaining clips, and glass. Not put the pegs through the side yet either to hold the grate in place.I can give it a test fire then and realize it wont work and throw it in the skip.........................
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I struggle with the welders I have. One is great at very thin stuff and the other can blow holes in half inch plate. I always find it a fight.
There you are - I weld thin stuff together by clamping them tightly and simply burning a hole through both. The edge of the hole is often a textbook weld and the big advantages are the weight saving and ventilation. Sounds like you're up to speed with the heavy stuff though.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Not always easy when it has to be gas tight but I see what your saying.
Id love to have a go with a proper mig. Something adjustable that will tackle everything. The biggest problem I have is thick stuff against thin. I realize you work on the thick section and catch the thin with the edge of the puddle but its a big task with a stick welder. With all the smoke, flux and slag its hard to see the puddle half the time never mind control it.
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So would I - and a decent visor. I bought an inverter stick unit and visor rec'd by someone who claims to be a good welder. I've since found out that he's a complete arse.
For one, I can't really see what I'm doing, but that did improve vastly when I took the protective film off the glass. I bought different rods and they made a big difference to how easily an arc can be struck, but I'm so far from competent that I just tack stuff together and pay someone else to finish it because it's all landy-related and has to be good.
As you say, I'm sure that a hundred feet of beads with some good gear would help both of us.
