jimllshiftit

Active Member
This Christmas is the first chance ive had since last summer to replace the cylinder head of the P38. Sure enough, when I removed it, the crack in the head was immediately apparent between the valves on the second cylinder.

Anyway, now a replacement (and pressure tested) head is fitted and im just bolting up all the bits that go on top of it, but, as ever, a couple of problems have arisen.

1) The brand new Nissens radiator has two 15mm brass oil cooler unions at the bottom of it. My old rad doesnt have these unions and, as its Christmas, I cant get hold of the place who sold me the radiator until the New Year. Should I wait until the New Year, send this one back and get one with no unions or get two blanking plugs and shut them off? If the latter, where do I get blanking plugs from? They are the same as 15mm compression fittings but with a much finer thread, so no chance of picking them up in B and Q.

2) My injector pipes dont look quite right, no matter how I arrange them. The only photo I can find on google is very blurry and I cant find a diagram in the Rave manual. Has anyone here got a diagram of which port on the back of the injector pump goes to which cylinder. I just want to check it and know its right before I refit the intake manifold etc.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you. (only five more nights before life is back to normal....... thank god!)
 
Last edited:
The unions on the bottom of the RAD can be ignored, you will not get a Nissens RAD without them.
I'll take a photo of the injector pipes tomorrow if it would help.
 
Cheers fellas. Ill put this rad in, in the morning then.

Would very much appreciate a photo of the back of your pump and where the pipes. I know the pipes are formed so you cant really go wrong, but something snt quite right here.................
 
Cheers fellas. Ill put this rad in, in the morning then.

Would very much appreciate a photo of the back of your pump and where the pipes. I know the pipes are formed so you cant really go wrong, but something snt quite right here.................
It is certainly possible to get to pipes on wrong:eek: I'll take photo's tomorrow.
 
Fit number 1 pipe finger tight to injector, it will only go in one position on pump. Then follow in firing order sequence in an anti clockwise pattern looking at back of pressure head.
 
I can't find it on my ebay, but I bought a rad and it had and exit for a pipe (think it's for a manual) and you just closed it off with a spanner, so it worked for auto and manual
 
My Manual 2.5 rad has an oil cooler for the gearbox.;)
Yea I am sure thats what it for, but like I say, you can close it off, it has some kind of shut off built in, so you can use the rad on auto, and it has the baffle in it, I have had it for 5 years (ish) and its been working fine so far
 
Yea I am sure thats what it for, but like I say, you can close it off, it has some kind of shut off built in, so you can use the rad on auto, and it has the baffle in it, I have had it for 5 years (ish) and its been working fine so far
You still haven't named and shamed the man sitting on the Landy, if he's got it out , his cock is invisible. Try expanding the photo and you'll see what I mean.:D:eek:
 
he might be "Happy"

Alan2.jpg
 
Somehow, i had managed to get the pipes on right in the first place. So now everything is reassembled! :)...................... Damn shame all this cold weather has killed my battery!:mad:
 
Somehow, i had managed to get the pipes on right in the first place. So now everything is reassembled! :)...................... Damn shame all this cold weather has killed my battery!:mad:

TIP. If you are unsure what you are doing mark stuff up. Or in today's world take a photo with your phone.
 
Agreed, Wammers.

However, when the pipes came off the were all linked together so it looked to me liked theyd just fall back in to place on reassembly, which they did.... to some extent.

Your guide was excellent for peace of mind though. Very much appreciated. ;)
 

Similar threads