No need for the photo's I took today then
I thought they only went back on one way? Seemed to when I put mine back.
That brass pipe just goes straight through so presumably if you leave it open at both ends it just has air in it?
I thought they only went back on one way? Seemed to when I put mine back.
That brass pipe just goes straight through so presumably if you leave it open at both ends it just has air in it?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's actually not that difficult to get a couple crossed I've seen it done.
jimllshiftit
Active Member
Sorry DT, i assumed you were following the thread..... They might be useful info for future reference though. I couldnt find the pics I wanted when I was searching, so......
Anyway.... The car is running this morning! ................... But still pressurising the coolant.............Im livid....... What a waste of time and money..... I dont know whats gone wrong, the head was checked, the mating faces were clean, the torque process was followed, but I just go to bleed it and its starts spewing coolant out of the header tank.....I dont get it...
Anyway.... The car is running this morning! ................... But still pressurising the coolant
.............Im livid....... What a waste of time and money..... I dont know whats gone wrong, the head was checked, the mating faces were clean, the torque process was followed, but I just go to bleed it and its starts spewing coolant out of the header tank.....I dont get it...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Pressure testing the head often does not show cracks even when done hot.Sorry DT, i assumed you were following the thread..... They might be useful info for future reference though. I couldnt find the pics I wanted when I was searching, so......
Anyway.... The car is running this morning! ................... But still pressurising the coolant
However, it may just be an air lock, the cooling system is difficult to bleed. I always rase the front of the car to help get the air out and rapidly squeezing and releasing the top hose helps too. Make sure the bleed pipe from the top of the RAD is clear, you should see coolant dribbling out.
Are you sure the thermostat and water pump are OK?
jimllshiftit
Active Member
Interesting,
The stat and the waterpump are brand new but the car is currently pointing downwards.... I took the front wheels off it and lowered the axle to the ground just to make it easier to work on. ...... ill lift it up and try again. Thankfully the car didnt overheat while it was running, so maybe........ just maybe.......
The stat and the waterpump are brand new but the car is currently pointing downwards.... I took the front wheels off it and lowered the axle to the ground just to make it easier to work on. ...... ill lift it up and try again. Thankfully the car didnt overheat while it was running, so maybe........ just maybe.......
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Did you check the stat before fitting? there are a lot of duff ones about. I always check for opening in a pan of boiling water before fitting. The stat must also always be fitted with the bleed hole at the top, does yours have a bleed hole?Interesting,
The stat and the waterpump are brand new but the car is currently pointing downwards.... I took the front wheels off it and lowered the axle to the ground just to make it easier to work on. ...... ill lift it up and try again. Thankfully the car didnt overheat while it was running, so maybe........ just maybe.......
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I marked mine up then sprayed them and lost the marks, bit confusing as they twist. May be able see a few then work others out here -
Now I think about it I marked mine up with a Sharpie pen. A line for 1, two lines for 2 and so on. My memory is so crap. Until I see it in front of me (or a picture like above) I seem to forget what it looks like!
jimllshiftit
Active Member
Well done Datatek....... It must have just been an airlock. As soon as I lifted the car so that the top of the rad was even slightly higher the heater pipes, its seemed to hold its level .....
All thats left now is to let it cool, turn the head bolts another 90 degrees and "touch wood" its sorted....
Once again, thanks to the invaluable advice available here....
All thats left now is to let it cool, turn the head bolts another 90 degrees and "touch wood" its sorted....
Once again, thanks to the invaluable advice available here....
When filling these it is straight forwards if you remove the feed pipe engine to rad. R/H pipe looking at rad from front. Then use an up turned pipe on the rad and fill until coolant comes out of the disconnected hose. Then slip fill hose off and reconnect engine to rad hose. Run and top up expansion tank as needed. Allow to cool and top up to MAX level.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I’m same, that’s why I take so many photos. I like to see it before I venture out to pull bits off. ^^^ that one is from when I set static and starter failed. Keep them for reference
jimllshiftit
Active Member
And so we get a chance to admire those rather fetching injector pipe clamps..................lovin' your work!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Here’s the thread
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...g-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/#post-4595058
Inlet manifold came up the best
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/95dt-alloy-inlet-manifold.343494/
There’s another one somewhere with the camcover too
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...g-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/#post-4595058
Inlet manifold came up the best
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/95dt-alloy-inlet-manifold.343494/
There’s another one somewhere with the camcover too
