Tillytomp

Tillytomp

Active Member
Guys
Thinking about getting a RR for the missus to tow her horse with.
I couldn't find and buying guides (I did look) so though I would post here.
We are hopefully looking at one on Friday,
140.000 miles
Loads of service history and recipes of work done,
2 owners from new
Looks lovely
And everything works as it should

We have a disco 2 at the moment(that has had new suspension bags, compresser ring and nearly every electrical box going) so I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty

I also have a nancom but don't have the software for the RR

so what to look for?

Many thanks Neil
 
Morning, get ready!!!





Everything electrical!!:p
There'll be somebody along with huge amounts of what to and what not to's pretty soon;)
 
I though it would be a sticky, looked back 6 pages and through the archives, and found nothing, I will continue
 
Tillytomp said:
I though it would be a sticky, looked back 6 pages and through the archives, and found nothing, I will continue
Click to expand...
Unless the crash fairy stole them, there are dozens of threads on the points to look for on the Range Rover, all models. I think even the sport may be included. Perhaps your search terms are too broad. Try using specific model and less words when searching.
 
Start the very leading edge of the front bumper - work you way meticulously to the very trailing edge of the rear bumper.....everything that can be seen, touched or heard in between these to extremities is something to watch out for.

I would put a laughing or smiling emoji thingy - but the reality is, I am not kidding!
 
My question would be why change from a Disco, apart from a rust tsunami, to a RR.

I only bought my RR because the rust free Disco's of similar age were twice the price. My hope is that the repair and service costs will crop up smoothly and evenly, so it will be like a gentle downhill drive rather than over a cliff.
 
Billaboard said:
My question would be why change from a Disco, apart from a rust tsunami, to a RR.

I only bought my RR because the rust free Disco's of similar age were twice the price. My hope is that the repair and service costs will crop up smoothly and evenly, so it will be like a gentle downhill drive rather than over a cliff.
Click to expand...

My answer to that would be firstly aaaaarrrrggggghhhhhhh :eek: You've stirred the RR gods, cliff approaching rapidly.
I would then put on sensible head and say 'comfort and reliability. Plain and simple. When I changed from my Disco to L322, the difference was palpable. I loved my Disco and I missed her V8 but overall the RR is a smoother, more comfortable drive.
I know the L322 has a bad reputation for gearbox and other issues but in 3yrs of owning the Disco she spent more time in the garage than she did on my drive. I have been quite unlucky with my L322, more to do with the mechanics working on her, than the faults. However, adding up garage visits, she has been more reliable than my Disco ever was. Added to which the Disco was a rust magnet, I had to get a massive amount done on it to pass the MOT, when it was only 8yrs old.:eek:
 
gold rover said:
Unless the crash fairy stole them, there are dozens of threads on the points to look for on the Range Rover, all models. I think even the sport may be included. Perhaps your search terms are too broad. Try using specific model and less words when searching.
Click to expand...

I have found the information now, but they seem to repeat, so I'm trying to digest all the content and simplify,
 
Tillytomp said:
I have found the information now, but they seem to repeat, so I'm trying to digest all the content and simplify,
Click to expand...
I think you'll find they repeat because the issues occur on almost every vehicle, and instead of reading and then asking questions on an existing thread, people start a new thread on the same subject. The ones that repeat the most are the ones to be concerned about ;)
 
Billaboard said:
My question would be why change from a Disco, apart from a rust tsunami, to a RR.

I only bought my RR because the rust free Disco's of similar age were twice the price. My hope is that the repair and service costs will crop up smoothly and evenly, so it will be like a gentle downhill drive rather than over a cliff.
Click to expand...
The disco pulls the horse trailer OK, (2000 Td5) but does seem to struggle to get going and uphill needs a run up, otherwise you get the cycling guys overtaking you. it'd only a maybe at the moment, but that's what we said when we viewed the disco
 
gold rover said:
I think you'll find they repeat because the issues occur on almost every vehicle, and instead of reading and then asking questions on an existing thread, people start a new thread on the same subject. The ones that repeat the most are the ones to be concerned about ;)
Click to expand...
Yep, when I say they repeat, it's almost verbatim, I'm getting there
 
Tillytomp said:
The disco pulls the horse trailer OK, (2000 Td5) but does seem to struggle to get going and uphill needs a run up, otherwise you get the cycling guys overtaking you.
Click to expand...

My Disco 1, 300tdi, was adequate for the 3-ton boat and just ignored the very heavy empty trailer on the long distances from launching places. People did seem to say it was a 'good one', though.

I haven't yet tried the TD6 RR with real towing, as I need to save up to swap the tow hitch to the farmer's type ( and also am hoping pain from my crushed vertebra will subside a bit).
 
So, after having a dead brain I have the basic grasp of this (I think)
as Saint said, check everything front to back.
Drive slow, steering left and right to see if there is any knocks or bangs.
Drive down the motorway at over 60mph to see if the suspension drops (not sure if this is noticeable)
Check for leaks, coolant and oil
Check all electrical items, Sat navigation, windows etc
And all this

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-buying-checklist-what-do-you-think.112318/

Does nanocom support the early l322 as I can only find the sort ware for the later ones

Cheers guys
 
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