Removed the swing-away wheel carrier, mud flaps, tow-bar, tailboard hinges and tub retaining bolts, in preparation for removing the rusty / bent crossmember and replacing it with one of Pressbrake's finest.
Much usage was made of angle grinder, cold chisel, lump hammer and profanity.
Little use of actual spanners.
 
Off to Peak District again tomorrow with DavidSally so thought I'd check the rear wheel bearings. Glad I did .. nearside one almost dry and not running properly, though no wobble so if I'd just 'felt' it, it would have been good! Offside not as bad, just needed tweaking to tighten, though I cleaned it and used new grease .. so what, I hear you say, an hour tops to do it!!

So, while the wheels are off, I thought "I have some shock droppers and relocation cones, perhaps I'll fit them too". That was the mistake .. Everything, and I mean every nut and bolt, just didn't want to turn, and when they did they were all stiff, Plusgas notwithstanding! Started the fettling about 4, so it's took about 4 hours ....

All done, I thought, looked over at rear diff ... brand new donut before last weekends Peaks Bouncing Bakewell run, and the bloody thing's nackered! Ah well, think me mate Tim has a rear prop and fitting to swap to UJ's .. I better see him sooner rather than later I think ... It'll do, it'll bloody have to, for tomorrow ... :(
 
In between consoling BB, when he thought his gearbox was gonna have to come out again. :eek: I've installed a 16way Fusebox and wired it to me aux battery. Of course been a Landy. I've had to fabricate a new panel to widen the bulkhead, to allow the fuse box to fit. :(

Got CB, Stereo & faglighter/aux faglighter/usb sockets, wired up so far. Half the fuseways are wired to 2 seperate wires so I can run 2 things off 1 fuse.great for providing a switched live and feed wire to a relay. :)

 
Amongst many other farting around bits and pieces that always seem necessary when swapping gearboxes I made up this repair section for the O/D link which doesn't rattle like a hail storm in a tin box like the other one did :)

 
Today I've done nothing to the landy (planned its paint job)
Yesterday however saw me get my new mobile soda blasting van and having some free time we decided the muddy, oil caked and sand riddles 300tdi lump we had would be ripe for some 'cleaning' action

from this horrid thing





to this





and by the way this is no means a plug, I just thought you guys might like to see what can be done.
 
blue beasty said:
Amongst many other farting around bits and pieces that always seem necessary when swapping gearboxes I made up this repair section for the O/D link which doesn't rattle like a hail storm in a tin box like the other one did :)
Click to expand...

Well done wish "I'd" thought of it???? :p :p
 
Installed some security to it on Friday..

photo0055.jpg


:eek:
 
Solved my middle crossmember bolts crisis. Managed to find a really thin old hacksaw blade which was just able to force it's way gradually between the crossmember and the chassis mounting. Slow work but cut all three offending bolts so now have three clean holes.

With middle crossmember removed, fitted the new decat pipe and refitted crossmembers with new bolts/nuts.

After draining and removing the sump to change the oil pump bolt yesterday, refilled with Castrol Edge 5W-30 and changed rotary and oil filter.

Took for a nice test drive, allot quieter now the blowing front exhaust pipe is now fixed. All in all a successful day.

Next job is to try and find out why I have got a bit of rough running on 1 cylinder. The injector loom was replaced about 300 miles ago and ECU red plug cleaned several times. Last check it was bone dry. I am current running a fuel tank with wynn's injector cleaner in, and about half way through the tank. Was hoping that might cure it.. although not so far.

Using hawkeye it is clear that it is cylinder 2 causing the issue. Running with roughness of about 10% at 1000rpm, whilst the others are all about 2-3%.

I am going to double check the ECU plug again tomorrow, then if clear of oil, going to remove rocker cover and clean the injector harness connection to all injectors. Failing that, then I guess I need to remove the injector itself for inspection.
 
Finished playing with the lift kit althou the front sits somewhat higher than the rear, yet it was fitted as recommended.

Then set about getting the 750-16s on not as bad as expected, the steel series wheels with there shallower offset means way less trimming, not that I really plan on abusing it to much off road.

Then had a quick play on a green lane to test it. More than happy with the results.
 
loudandproud205 said:
Finished playing with the lift kit althou the front sits somewhat higher than the rear, yet it was fitted as recommended.

Then set about getting the 750-16s on not as bad as expected, the steel series wheels with there shallower offset means way less trimming, not that I really plan on abusing it to much off road.

Then had a quick play on a green lane to test it. More than happy with the results.
Click to expand...

you've not got a v8 have you?
 
Ive been thinking a lot about V8, in particular derv ones. Ide love to get a project going in the next year or so, fitted with some kind of derv V8. Don't suppose anyone knows if the engine bay is big enough in a defender to fit a scania v8 in the front ;) would be a beast.

But in all seriousness, anyone know of any decent derv v8's out there?
 
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