Ironstrike
Well-Known Member
Removed the passenger door and found some silicone cunningly disguised as a bulkhead door pillar.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Removed the floor after remembering to get the non metric spanner’s out.
Just typing this to fill in time whilst waiting for a flat bed truck to take me home. I was coming back from Wales and noticed a hot smell, and then the transmission temperature gauge went right round as far as it would go, I came off the motorway at the Walsall turn of and parked in the car park of a convenient school and had a look underneath. There' a lot of oil coming from the transfer box area. Looks like a seal has gone. I hope I caught it in time before wearing the gears out. Anyway, the AA man said he'd summon a flatbed, so I've just got to wait for it.
Seeing as it isn't raining today. I've made a start on my transfer box. There wasn't much oil left in it and it smelled a bit burnt, rather like the hot smell I was getting on Sunday. I've started with the output seals and bearings. The output bearings are just a single ball bearing race and were getting a little slack, which might have allowed the oil out past the seals.
Off with the old:
The rear one didn't want to come out of its housing. I had to bang away with the slide hammer for quite a while. It was getting hung up on the circlip groove, so I carefully scraped the edges down and it eventually came out but it was very tight.
The new one won't go in - it's even tighter. I need a bigger hammer. I've only got the little hammer with me here, all the heavy ones are in Wales. No, it's not because the splines on the shaft are out of line with the ones on the centre diff, because I'm turning everything. I've asked the neighbours if anyone's got a lump hammer but the only things offered to me were the usual 16oz claw hammers that everybody's got. There was even a man with a van working on one of the houses, but it turned out he was only there to do some painting and hadn't got any hammers with him.
I don't think there's anything wrong with it, it's just that the interference fit parts on the Land Rover are sized to provide a very generous amount of interference. As I've found by watching the dial on my press whilst doing gearbox jobs, it's not unusual to need 5 or 10 tons to shift things.
Of course, these aren't the only places oil can escape from transfer boxes, but it's getting to the point where it is worth doing the bearings, and these are the ones which are below the waterline as it were when the oil is topped up. The intermediate shaft and input shaft only have to be splashproof.
The transfer box still turns smoothly. A bit of rotational slack is evident but with so many gears and splined joints that's to be expected. I'll pop the sump off later and have a look with a torch, but I'm hoping the gears themselves aren't too bad.
Off with the old:
The rear one didn't want to come out of its housing. I had to bang away with the slide hammer for quite a while. It was getting hung up on the circlip groove, so I carefully scraped the edges down and it eventually came out but it was very tight.
The new one won't go in - it's even tighter. I need a bigger hammer. I've only got the little hammer with me here, all the heavy ones are in Wales. No, it's not because the splines on the shaft are out of line with the ones on the centre diff, because I'm turning everything. I've asked the neighbours if anyone's got a lump hammer but the only things offered to me were the usual 16oz claw hammers that everybody's got. There was even a man with a van working on one of the houses, but it turned out he was only there to do some painting and hadn't got any hammers with him.
I don't think there's anything wrong with it, it's just that the interference fit parts on the Land Rover are sized to provide a very generous amount of interference. As I've found by watching the dial on my press whilst doing gearbox jobs, it's not unusual to need 5 or 10 tons to shift things.
Of course, these aren't the only places oil can escape from transfer boxes, but it's getting to the point where it is worth doing the bearings, and these are the ones which are below the waterline as it were when the oil is topped up. The intermediate shaft and input shaft only have to be splashproof.
The transfer box still turns smoothly. A bit of rotational slack is evident but with so many gears and splined joints that's to be expected. I'll pop the sump off later and have a look with a torch, but I'm hoping the gears themselves aren't too bad.
Right, got a lump hammer and finished it. I think that once again the bearing was hung up on the circlip groove. I've put everything back together and cleaned up so that if there are more oil leaks I'll be able to see them. I see while it was hot it's melted the plastic sleeve of the handbrake cable which has stuck itself to the transfer case, so I'll need another one of those.
towsey956
Well-Known Member
Well I’ve told mine to go and stand in the naughty corner because on top of lacking in rear brake effort and steering wander and pas pump problems I’ve just noticed today the heater matrix is urinating all over the tunnel!
If I had a workshop to do it I think I’d just rebuild her
If I had a workshop to do it I think I’d just rebuild her
My handbrake cable came today so I put it on. Everything feels nice and tight to begin with but I expect it will stretch a bit as it beds in. There's a new rattle coming from somewhere in the region of the transmission tunnel. I took the rubber cover off and wobbled a few things to see if I could tell what it is. I think it may be in the turret of the main gear lever.
I think the next job may be to change the swivel balls and brake discs, and have a good look at the CV joints while I'm doing so. I'm still getting a sort of rattle or scraping sound from the area of the front axle and despite assuring myself that the brakes and bearings are fit for purpose, would like to get to the bottom of it. The brake discs were last changed at Easter 2013 and the bearings etc. were done in December 2014. I re-used the swivel balls at that point because they looked OK, but they're getting a bit spotty now. I don't begrudge doing it because they must have done the best part of 90,000 miles over the last six or seven years.
I think the next job may be to change the swivel balls and brake discs, and have a good look at the CV joints while I'm doing so. I'm still getting a sort of rattle or scraping sound from the area of the front axle and despite assuring myself that the brakes and bearings are fit for purpose, would like to get to the bottom of it. The brake discs were last changed at Easter 2013 and the bearings etc. were done in December 2014. I re-used the swivel balls at that point because they looked OK, but they're getting a bit spotty now. I don't begrudge doing it because they must have done the best part of 90,000 miles over the last six or seven years.
My components have started arriving, so what better to do than arrange them attractively in the hall and take pictures of them:
I thought I'd try black balls for a change rather than the usual silver. The top bearings for the swivels came in Britpart boxes but I was reassured to see that the packaging on the bearing races themselves says Timken. There are a few Britpart items but they're mostly gaskets and bottles of grease for the CV joints. Surely even Britpart can't get that wrong? I shall change all the wheel bearings too while the hubs are off. There are a few items due to come in a separate package such as brake discs. Assuming all my parts arrive I'll get started on this next week.
I thought I'd try black balls for a change rather than the usual silver. The top bearings for the swivels came in Britpart boxes but I was reassured to see that the packaging on the bearing races themselves says Timken. There are a few Britpart items but they're mostly gaskets and bottles of grease for the CV joints. Surely even Britpart can't get that wrong? I shall change all the wheel bearings too while the hubs are off. There are a few items due to come in a separate package such as brake discs. Assuming all my parts arrive I'll get started on this next week.
@Brown check your balls have been machined correctly,another member had a problem recently can’t remember who or what Fred, but it caused him a bit of grief for a while.
look nice lining up all that work
Good luck hope it’s plain sailing
J
Ah yes, there wasn't enough clearance inside to accommodate the CV joint. Well, if that happens I'll just grind a bit more out. I find I've often got to do a bit of fiddling about with Land Rover components to make them fit so I'm well used to it.
Yes, the whole street of houses had these Minton style floors, but some have lost them. We're only renting here, but one of the thing that attracted me to the place when I was looking for houses was that it had a few original features left.
And nice tiled floor!
Another load of bits and pieces came this evening:
Brake components mostly. The discs feel very big and heavy - I hope they're the right size. My former set of discs were grooved too once upon a time, but I noticed the other day that the pattern has pretty much worn off them, so they're probably below tolerance now after 90,000 plus miles. I've got pistons and seals too. They've sent me a lot of back ones - I only asked for four and they've sent me eight. As you can see I'm going to replace the rubbers and pistons rather than the whole calipers. It seemed to work reasonably well last time. The rubbers were advertised as Lockheed with a G suffix, but the packet says Allmakes. However, on inspection, I've seen worse. I thought I might as well do the brakes while I have the front hubs off, as they'll need doing in the next 2 months or so anyway. And if I'm doing the front I might as well do the back ones too. I'd go out and get started but it is raining, so I'll have an early night and get going tomorrow.
I've finally managed to get one of these:
It is a fastener for the fan cowl. It looks like a screw but it isn't. I've been missing this since last year so it is good to find the correct replacement.
I've finally managed to get one of these:
It is a fastener for the fan cowl. It looks like a screw but it isn't. I've been missing this since last year so it is good to find the correct replacement.
New wheels and boots ready to replace the Rostyles with Insa Dakar 235/85 tyres. The Rostyle wheels need refurb with unused tyres are just out of place for my road focused rolling resto.
Fluid service, New radiator, Raptor binnacle and mount in, LED instrument light upgrade, Lucas interior light back in ready for a headlining in future if I can find one. Fitted front bumper fresh from the hot dip galv.
A busy day on the drive, all ready to fit and wire in the rear wash wipe system next time
New
for old 
. Lower profile means it just fits under the garage door at last!
Fluid service, New radiator, Raptor binnacle and mount in, LED instrument light upgrade, Lucas interior light back in ready for a headlining in future if I can find one. Fitted front bumper fresh from the hot dip galv.
A busy day on the drive, all ready to fit and wire in the rear wash wipe system next time
New
for old . Lower profile means it just fits under the garage door at last!
