Just been out and given it a new handbrake cable. The previous one, although fairly new, stretched alarmingly when trying to hold the vehicle on a hill, so I thought a new one was indicated.

I also tackled that problem that the heated screen warning light sometimes comes on when I switch the headlights on. Yes, I've done all the earths, but in this case something's shorting. I have given up trying to trace it, and instead ran new wires from the switch to the instrument panel and the switch to the relay. I have an MOT coming up in a few weeks so I want things to look like they're working properly. I don't think it says in the MOT manual that the heated screen light definitely must not come on when the lights are illuminated, but it might create a poor impression. Whilst current is delivered to the rear door, the heated screen itself isn't doing much for me. I don't think I'll buy another any time soon, because for the amount of time I use it, it's not worth the £200 or so for a new one. I tend to rely on the side mirrors and shoulder checks mainly, rather than trying to see traffic behind through the relatively narrow gap between the spare wheel and the high level brake light.
 
Had the 90 kangarooing on me mid overtake again the other day, then going into limp mode so I couldn't accelerate past 50.

I fleetingly thought it might be the pump going lame, but knew really it was overboost. So I finally did the decent thing and stripped off the actuator and arm assembly to properly de-cease it through the full rotation of travel rather than just spraying it and loosening it.

Had to take of turbo feed (air) pipe, heat shield and because if mislaid my short extension bar had to remove air box too!

All back together and like a whole different vehicle to drive now, perfect! :)
 
Just fitted new LR original/G grade door seals. Incredible, the difference between original LR seals and so-called OEM and pattern/copies is huge. Can really recommend when you're needing to replace door seals, do not buy low cost, by LR originals + if you shop around they can be bought at a very sensible price
 
When I refurbed my 90 last year I renewed all the door seals with blue box seals, needed to take a bit of care fitting them, and never got the doors to shut very well, had to slam the drivers door to get it to shut even after a lot of faffing about with hinges and striker.
Took me 6 months to work out how to shut the door, the problem being the seals are almost too good and don't allow enough air past them - yeah, joke right - so I was pushing the door against air pressure. Found that if I put the door right up to the opening, pull open 6ins quickly and in the same movement shut the door fully it latches perfectly without having to slam it. !!
Puts a bit of negative pressure in the 90 so I'm not shutting the door against the resistance of air pressure. Well, it works for me.
 
v8250 said:
Just fitted new LR original/G grade door seals. Incredible, the difference between original LR seals and so-called OEM and pattern/copies is huge. Can really recommend when you're needing to replace door seals, do not buy low cost, by LR originals + if you shop around they can be bought at a very sensible price
Click to expand...
Where did you get them from please? I noticed today that my drivers door seal is knackered!

I spent today changing the heater matrix, I had to do it twice as I managed to split the first one and didnt notice until filling up the system with coolant! Luckily a local place had one in stock. Not a fun job at all and am pretty miffed that I am still not getting great heat from the vents, it's certainly better and at least now its enough to warm up the car, but not as hot as I would expect!
 
madfrank said:
Ive pressure washed the underside of mine after a play in a local quarry .

what jobs have you done on yours ?
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Spent half a day removing brake caliper and damper nuts. It was fire in the end that got the damper bolt off. I’m kind of new to this and beginning to understand how a Landy will play with you when you dare to aspire to anything approaching a schedule.
 
Tried my new dolls out
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HeaterOut.jpg
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Heater-in-prime.jpg


Goliath205 said:
I spent today changing the heater matrix, I had to do it twice as I managed to split the first one and didnt notice until filling up the system with coolant! Luckily a local place had one in stock. Not a fun job at all and am pretty miffed that I am still not getting great heat from the vents, it's certainly better and at least now its enough to warm up the car, but not as hot as I would expect!
Click to expand...


I rebuilt mine a few weeks ago, took it out completely and painted it all up.
The rubber seals just weren't sealing anything so treated myself to some new ones. Also fitted new rubbers and tubes in between the air cavity and the demisters and spent a few hours setting up the cables so the paddle-flaps flapped correctly.
It made a whole heap of difference as the hot air can only escape into the cabin now.

I also changed the resistor so that 'slow' runs faster than it did.
 
Finally got around to fitting a reversing light switch to my S2A. Its a simple but long winded job as the floor has to come out and the gear lever has to come off to drill and tap the hole for the switch. i fitted a rear light and reversing camera a while back but they were on a dash switch, this new fangled automatic switch is great!. I heard somewhere that some cars have interior lights that come on when you open the door, what ever next? Joking aside I'd quite like a heater control that was inside the vehicle but that's a Series for you.
 
After sitting in the garage and finally getting round to rebuilding the engine and gearbox this year.. I thought best have a quick look at the brakes ( its nice to stop even if it takes a while), both the back brakes popped up problems.. drivers side about to pour fluid all over the shoes (it was hiding behind the rubber boots) and the passenger side cylinder was stiff/sticking out.. 2 new cylinders ordered.. just glad the shoes are good.
 
Brown said:
I've started doing a few jobs seeing as it is Christmas and all good Christmases are spent beneath a Land Rover. On checking the propshaft, there does appear to be a little slack, which may have been c...

I'm trying to get my centre difflock mechanism to work again. Here, you can see I've renewed most of it:
View attachment 196853
.
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Hi, only just catching up on this thread, my linkage is badly worn too. Could I have the details of where you got these replacement parts from? was it a kit? Thanks,
 
Turns out the LEDs I'd put on the roll cage and bumper were interfering with the radio - a common problem with cheaper LED lights it appears.

Biggest issue was getting enough slack in the respective looms after I'd done such a good job tidying everything. I managed to get a few loops done eventually.
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Put it in for an MOT test this morning and it passed, fortunately. I try and keep on top of the maintenance, but you never know with these things - sometimes a fresh pair of eyes can reveal stuff you'd missed. Particularly gratifying, seeing as it is a TD5, is that the smoke test results were pretty low; mean absorption coefficient of 0.29 l/m. It's always the most interesting thing because on TD5s there's not much you can adjust to change the smokiness. And changing the injectors or overhauling the engine can end up being expensive.
 
gymmaniac said:
Hi, only just catching up on this thread, my linkage is badly worn too. Could I have the details of where you got these replacement parts from? was it a kit? Thanks,
Click to expand...
It's nearly a year ago so I've forgotten. I'm pretty sure I got them as part of an order from LR Direct. I worked out the part numbers from the parts book and stuck them into their search function. Often you can get away with renewing just the little plastic washers. But a number of the holes on mine had gone somewhat oval, and the little bolt at the top and the U shaped linkage at the bottom had developed 'necks'. So I renewed as much as I could. This must have happened as a result of vibration, because I hardly ever use the centre diff lock. I just try it out once in a while to make sure it's still working. Oh, and I ended up changing the switch that screws into the top of the centre diff housing too, as that had developed a high resistance according to my multimeter.
 
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