Decided against it - only had a couple of hours today, and looking at the job, it’s another PITA!
I’ll save it for when I have a whole weekend… just in case!
I’ll save it for when I have a whole weekend… just in case!
Richard.Wagner
Member
Fitted a safety devices roof rack 
Pics?Fitted a safety devices roof rack
Richard.Wagner
Member
Looks good
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Looks great. Where did you manage to source that from?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
It IS a PITA but shouldn't take too long if you already know how to remove the door cards.
Just watch out for those sharp edges.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
So after a quick drive there is good news and bad newsReplaced leaky N/S drive shaft seal and the front subframe with a spare that was painted a few months ago. It has new ARB bushes too which seems to have sorted the knocking I heard while driving up the lane.
The good news is as already mentioned the knock is gone.
The bad news is the moron that installed the ARB bushes didn't use grease and they're squeaking.
So I guess I'll be doing a bit more today to sort the squeak. Anybody know if red rubber grease would be OK with them?
So after a quick drive there is good news and bad news
The good news is as already mentioned the knock is gone.
The bad news is the moron that installed the ARB bushes didn't use grease and they're squeaking.
So I guess I'll be doing a bit more today to sort the squeak. Anybody know if red rubber grease would be OK with them?
Although the ‘book’ says to not use any grease, I put a smear of silicone grease on the new ARB bushings I just installed, after cleaning the bar to within an inch of its life and rust-treating it (there was only a few tiny patches).
Silicone grease is great for rubber, and should help prevent any corrosion build up.
Ancillaries | Floplast
www.floplast.co.uk
Richard.Wagner
Member
Guy selling on FB market place. I had to drive 150mile round trip to get it. He didn't know what it was other than a freelander roofrack.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I'd forgotten I have some silicone grease. I'll use that later thanks.Although the ‘book’ says to not use any grease, I put a smear of silicone grease on the new ARB bushings I just installed, after cleaning the bar to within an inch of its life and rust-treating it (there was only a few tiny patches).
Silicone grease is great for rubber, and should help prevent any corrosion build up.
Ancillaries | Floplast
xDParis64
Active Member
Replaced the rear glass to the new one now and it closes itself nicely, need a new rear handle though, my one was 100% broken in about 16 places, so that need to be renewed, the rust is quite bad so may need some welding to sort but nothing I can't fix.
Glass Everywhere
Also Removed the 50-60 lift kits as I can't afford new driveshafts every weekend!!! instead going to go for some smaller more viable 20-30 springs, I saw someone with a nice blue pair on here but haven't been able to find them since
But I Suppose I am selling a used lift kit for £100 for someone silly enough to want them 50mm Front and 60mm Rear, to be clear the car needs to be grinded down to use them.
Glass Everywhere
Also Removed the 50-60 lift kits as I can't afford new driveshafts every weekend!!! instead going to go for some smaller more viable 20-30 springs, I saw someone with a nice blue pair on here but haven't been able to find them since
But I Suppose I am selling a used lift kit for £100 for someone silly enough to want them 50mm Front and 60mm Rear, to be clear the car needs to be grinded down to use them.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Here you go !
£26 brand new with lamp
Bought some for stock - very good indeed !! No nuts, washers or badge supplied.
£26 brand new with lamp
Bought some for stock - very good indeed !! No nuts, washers or badge supplied.
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Alibro
Well-Known Member
50mm Lift kit! Been there, done that and never again.Replaced the rear glass to the new one now and it closes itself nicely, need a new rear handle though, my one was 100% broken in about 16 places, so that need to be renewed, the rust is quite bad so may need some welding to sort but nothing I can't fix.
View attachment 328132
Glass Everywhere
View attachment 328131
Also Removed the 50-60 lift kits as I can't afford new driveshafts every weekend!!! instead going to go for some smaller more viable 20-30 springs, I saw someone with a nice blue pair on here but haven't been able to find them since
View attachment 328133
But I Suppose I am selling a used lift kit for £100 for someone silly enough to want them 50mm Front and 60mm Rear, to be clear the car needs to be grinded down to use them.
View attachment 328134
As for the handle I've repaired several by epoxying in spouting bolts and they lasted for years. Having said that £33 for a new one........
xDParis64
Active Member
Followed your guide to install them!!!50mm Lift kit! Been there, done that and never again.
As for the handle I've repaired several by epoxying in spouting bolts and they lasted for years. Having said that £33 for a new one........
But yeah the replacement handle is a grab, so much easier, gonna get a family friend to weld up that rust so I can paint over it and prevent it happening again, I presume it happens when tightening down the bolt it scratches the paint then water gets in and rusts it? I'd like to prevent it.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
What's up with it? It didn't give any codes when I last checked, but the passenger rear did, although they didn't reappear after I cleared them. I bought the door lock though, which was in the box of spares.
Stance
Well-Known Member
Our annual car inspection (like MOT in UK) done and passed. Seems like the handbrake gives me always hard time. Did the must have yearly rear brakes disassembly, cleaning and adjustment but still it was just about enough to pass the test. Brakes are just perfect but the handbrake is not. Think I'll change the shoes for the next year, these are not worn but that result is just poor. Delphi shoes seemed to be out of stock everywhere I looked, is there any other brand that could be recommended? The handbrake adjuster lever seems to seize up in our harsh environment every year, but I always free it up before the test and get the shoes as close as possible before I adjust the cables.
What's up with it? It didn't give any codes when I last checked, but the passenger rear did, although they didn't reappear after I cleared them. I bought the door lock though, which was in the box of spares.
Yep - got the rear one in the box
The passenger front has decided to play about intermittently and not lock/unlock on the fob. The rest seem fine atm.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's the door lock actuator on the frits. Definitely change it before it locks you out.Yep - got the rear one in the box
The passenger front has decided to play about intermittently and not lock/unlock on the fob. The rest seem fine atm.
