badlad said:
Hi. When we had our Freelander 1 the fuel tank cradle looked a bit scabby. I took it to our local Indy and he replaced the plates rather than swap the whole frame. Said the frame is a pita do to.
Click to expand...

Having looked at mine the bars are so rotten I'm amazed it still there to be honest. Will have a go later, hopefully once the x2 15mm bolts each side are undone the bars will drop enough for me to cut them off. Will change them one side at a time.
 
You'll have to loosen the sub frame bolts to drop it a bit to get the cradle out/in, best done with a empty tank.
 
Andy Warren said:
You'll have to loosen the sub frame bolts to drop it a bit to get the cradle out/in, best done with a empty tank.
Click to expand...
I'm not fitting a full cradle, I'm just going to fit the new bars either side, do I still have to drop the subframe to remove the old cradle it or will an angle grinder be ok to cut through them?
 
Carlbrit said:
Question is, is this an easy job or a son of a bitch, how do I get the cradle off without dropping the rear sub frame, can I use an angle grinder to cut the cradle off, is that safe to do so by a diesel tank?
Click to expand...

So the plates provide protection against the tank being pierced by debris or stones etc. Plus if the prop throws something up.

The subframe need to be dropped to get the new brackets in anyway so no point in cutting.

Sorry to break bad news. The subframe happily lowers with bolts out then feed the bars through and clamp up. Replace subframe bolts but lift weight of frame first and align or you will strip bolts or damage threads in chassis if you use the bolts to pull it up.
 
andyfreelandy said:
So the plates provide protection against the tank being pierced by debris or stones etc. Plus if the prop throws something up.

The subframe need to be dropped to get the new brackets in anyway so no point in cutting.

Sorry to break bad news. The subframe happily lowers with bolts out then feed the bars through and clamp up. Replace subframe bolts but lift weight of frame first and align or you will strip bolts or damage threads in chassis if you use the bolts to pull it up.
Click to expand...
So left work early to make a start, been wd40ing the x4 fuel cradle bolts all week, x3 undo but x1 is just spinning it will not undo all all so what’s the best way to get this bolt out please guys?
 
The subframe is just 4 big bolts, it's not a bad job to do. How would you get the bars under the subframe?
 
Understand what you’re saying, but I am now stumped by the 15mm bolt in fuel cradle x1 is just spinning, what’s the best way to remove this ?
 
This could be useful information:
www.landyzone.co.uk

cracked chassis repair- no welding

i have had the cracked chassis noise for a few months and as the noise was getting worse i thought it was about time i tackled the issue, its a very common problem on the freelander, usually on the off side, its where the rear subframe - front bolt is attached to the chassis, what happens...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
xDParis64 said:
That's a shame!

Had this on mine, I would adjust it and it would after a few miles of driving stretch again, turns out it was actually the self adjuster pushing the shoes away from the handbrake causing a little binding.

£30 to fix
Click to expand...
A couple of years ago we had a guy come on here ranting about the brake adjuster saying it couldn't possibly work. Turns out he had his fitted on the wrong side of the car. Someone (probably him) had taken apart both sides at the same time and mixed them up.
Is this possible?
 
Finished the job of fitting a new rear sub frame and suspension arms and new rear driveshafts to the F2.
Went quite well, but then I was not rushing.
Also treated it to new battery.


1728662894633.jpeg
 
Alibro said:
A couple of years ago we had a guy come on here ranting about the brake adjuster saying it couldn't possibly work. Turns out he had his fitted on the wrong side of the car. Someone (probably him) had taken apart both sides at the same time and mixed them up.
Is this possible?
Click to expand...
I refuse to do 2 drums at a time! I can't even keep track of 4 bolts let alone 2 drums and all their silly springs and installation order 😂
 
andyfreelandy said:
But someone could have been there before you. Best to check it is all assembled correctly. Photos are on here and in Haynes manual.
Click to expand...
I mean at the same time 😂 one then the other, I always replace brakes in either pairs or full sets, normally if they are rotors all round then full sets but if it's FWD then really only need to do 2 at a time but always replace in at least pairs! Did the drums on my one only about 6 months ago after I bought it, did rotors, pads, shoes, drums and needed a new adjuster as that was F*****
 
badlad said:
Hi. When we had our Freelander 1 the fuel tank cradle looked a bit scabby. I took it to our local Indy and he replaced the plates rather than swap the whole frame. Said the frame is a pita do to.
Click to expand...
Done mine on the drive in less that 2hours
Just sweating as the bolts are long winded I would just change the lot with a new one and add extra paint
 
Replaced leaky N/S drive shaft seal and the front subframe with a spare that was painted a few months ago. It has new ARB bushes too which seems to have sorted the knocking I heard while driving up the lane. :)
 
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