I've never seen a bad subframe bolt so you can save 38 quid probably !!

You known she's worth it.

What can you get for a grand these days ??
 
Just priced up all the bits I'm about to buy. Eek

PartQtyTotal
Subframe bolt M14 x 106
4​
£38.08​
Rear arms long bolt
2​
£19.10​
Rear arms long bolt nut
2​
£0.96​
Rear arm front bolt M12 x 75
2​
£2.84​
Rear arm front nut
2​
£0.96​
Rear arm rear bolt M12 x 73
2​
£2.84​
Rear arm rear nut
2​
£0.96​
Rear hub nut
2​
£3.40​
Front hub nut
1​
£1.70​
Propshaft lock washer
2​
£2.76​
Fuel tank cradle
1​
£79.95​
Fuel tank cradle screw M10 x 304
£4.80​
VCU bearing
2​
£107.98​
Brake cylinder
2​
£16.94​
Flexible hose
2​
£18.80​
LH brake pipe to cylinder
1​
£9.00​
RH brake pipe to cylinder
1​
£9.00​
Spring kit
1​
£25.00​
Window regulator
1​
£25.95​
Rear Diff
1​
£276.00​
VCU
1​
£216.00​
Total
£863.02​
You can probably save a few £ on some of those suspension link bolts, as it's likely they'll be fine, so only nuts will be required. I can't remember if the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, but they often are. The workshop manual will tell you if they need replacing though.
 
You can probably save a few £ on some of those suspension link bolts, as it's likely they'll be fine, so only nuts will be required. I can't remember if the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, but they often are. The workshop manual will tell you if they need replacing though.
If a mechanic was doing the work the only bolt/nut he would replace would be the long ones that usually require cutting and drilling to remove. All the rest will be fine.
 
You can probably save a few £ on some of those suspension link bolts, as it's likely they'll be fine, so only nuts will be required. I can't remember if the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, but they often are. The workshop manual will tell you if they need replacing though.
I have a rear diff
And one arm (new)
quite heavy so post will be £18/25 but it FoC if its any good to you?
 
Being power hungry, ordered a nice new battery for the F2, ready for winter.
Placed the order on Sunday evening… arrived today. Free delivery, excellent packaging and a great price. Saved over £40 on the halfrauds price.

 
You can probably save a few £ on some of those suspension link bolts, as it's likely they'll be fine, so only nuts will be required. I can't remember if the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, but they often are. The workshop manual will tell you if they need replacing though.
I've just had a look at RAVE and I can't see a mention of needing to replace the bolts. They're reasonably tight though at 190Nm. I'll have a squint at Haynes when I'm next at home.
 
Went to work and discovered the boot latch is unlocking itself. Repeatedly.
Strange formation of water in the boot
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241002_131248.jpg
    IMG_20241002_131248.jpg
    149.8 KB · Views: 40
Went to drop it off for the MOT and it starts off by...
Dumping coolant everywhere on their nice floor.

I'm really, really hoping it's not the radiator
 
Jacked it up to swap the front sub frame with one that I've painted and tidied up. All OK until I crawled under and discovered a wet oily patchon the under tray! :oops:
In an EV swapped car that doesn't have oil in the motor! 😲

So after a quick inspection it looks like the N/S drive shaft oil seal in the gearbox is leaking. 😠
If anyone has replaced one in the past all advice welcome.
 
Not difficult. Driveshaft out with sharp smack with block of wood on inner joint having separated the hub and strut bolts. The bottom ball joint can remain. Pull hub forward and remove shaft from box.

Seal prises out and new one drifts in with suitable sized socket.

Obvs more oil may come out. Then top up when done.

Worth checking for play to check output bearing is not worn and causing seal failure.
 
Got the rear sub frame out.
Along with the driveshafts, diff, Haldex, suspension arms, AR bar, drop links… there is an awful lot of ‘nothing’ under the back at the moment.
‘Tis a tough job on a drive.

Haldex ecm posted away today for the scrabble mod.

Now trying to establish if I’ve got a headache on my hands with the casualty of the day. Managed to pop the end cap off the prop joint as I was separating it from the Haldex. Some cv grease oozed from the bolt holes as I clipped it back on, so not sure what’s going on there yet.


1728065978845.jpeg
 

Similar threads