Dunno when you'll have time to fit it given the exercise those 3 must need!Arrived home to my new exhaust at the back door
very pleased with it tbh can’t wait to put it on
it never ends morning noon and nightDunno when you'll have time to fit it given the exercise those 3 must need!
Get the subframe done, I did my front and will have the rear done soon.Took my FL2 into the garage for a service and MOT this morning. Got a phone call saying rear subframe rotten, do you want to come and have a look.
So I went and had a look.
Subframe rotten right enough. I could poke my finger through it around two of the mounting bushes.
Garage putting a parts and labour quote together for me.
To fix, or not to fix, that is the question.
The car is 16 years old and has done 222k miles. It's worth very little in the grand scheme of things.
On the other hand it has been, and still is, reliable and comfortable. To change it for something of similar quality will cost many £k.
Decision time looms.
Get the subframe done, I did my front and will have the rear done soon.
Genuine question not a sarcastic remark. Does the engine have to work more to power the haldex I'm guessing then.I've discovered that my FL2 doesn't use as much coolant if the Haldex fuse is pulled out.
I've been having to top up the coolant every 80 to 100 miles, as it's getting pressurised, presumably from a slightly leaking HG fire ring.
However as the Haldex is in need of some maintenance, I've pulled the fuse until I get round sorting it. Oddly the coolant isn't disappearing so fast while running as a FWD. The vehicle is also faster, better on fuel by a small amount, and the steering is lighter. So I'm guessing the Haldex is engaged the whole time I'm driving, which obviously needs sorting out. Odd about the coolant though.
No, but if the Haldex is engaged more than it should, then the AWD will increase drag on the tyres, which uses a bit more power to overcome. I can feel the AWD is in more than it should, because I can feel it cause extra drag pm the steering, which will actually use more engine power to provide the extra assistance required.Genuine question not a sarcastic remark. Does the engine have to work more to power the haldex I'm guessing then.
Your pressure washer mush have more power than mineFitted a replacement front washer motor and gave the car a good wash. Was disappointed to discover after that I'd stripped a bit of laquer off the offside rear door with the pressure washer
Took my FL2 into the garage for a service and MOT this morning. Got a phone call saying rear subframe rotten, do you want to come and have a look.
So I went and had a look.
Subframe rotten right enough. I could poke my finger through it around two of the mounting bushes.
Garage putting a parts and labour quote together for me.
To fix, or not to fix, that is the question.
The car is 16 years old and has done 222k miles. It's worth very little in the grand scheme of things.
On the other hand it has been, and still is, reliable and comfortable. To change it for something of similar quality will cost many £k.
Decision time looms.
On rear subframe did you use new genuine bolts or ? Or just boltsGot my Freelander back today complete with MOT.
Jobs done as follows:-
Propshaft CV joint gaiter.
Rear offside wheel bearing.
Nearside rear brake caliper & hose.
Rear brake pads both sides.
Rear Subframe, link arms, bushes and bolts.
Entire underside wirebrushed and undersealed.
Running great again. Not that it was running badly before, just liable to collapse.
On rear subframe did you use new genuine bolts or ? Or just bolts
I am changing the entire subframe and all the arms the bolts look like they will not surrender without a fight so I am going for the full set of them as well and complete poly bush the entire frameI sincerely hope genuine bolts (High tensile?). Local garage did the job and they were quite adamant they would not re-use any of the fastenings.