Yeah mine were the original VCU/hangers & I only replaced the hangers 'just in case' but they were red rust inside after 5,000 miles where as the GKN ones I took off still looked good. Hopefully the GKN ones are well greased.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
He sounds a bit like Popeye when he's talking but it's a great channel for tips on fabrication.Some more trackace info I wrote some time ago. You only need the fishing line parallel lines if you want to adjust the rears.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/4-wheel-laser-allignment.181199/#post-2221160
DSCN2423 ODFAqsy
And wheel alignment.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Poly bushed the trailing links. I don't suppose some kind person could look up the torque setting for the arm to body bolt for me? Can't find my Haynes manual anywhere. Managed to find the arm to hub setting online but no sign of the other.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Nice one Andy. Thanks.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Rearranging Freelander's friends. Mini is up for sale, Cortina GT gets new rims!
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/classic-mini.371767/
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/classic-mini.371767/
NeilTD4
Active Member
Changed the glow plugs on my 09 FL2, 132k miles.
What a mission!
Luckily when I got to the the plugs, they came out with no problems and I took the opportunity to fit a de-flapped manifold.
The flaps in my current one were all present and correct which was reassuring, but thought at that age/mileage it was time for them to retire...
Cleaned out the throttle body for good measure while was at it too.
What a mission!
Luckily when I got to the the plugs, they came out with no problems and I took the opportunity to fit a de-flapped manifold.
The flaps in my current one were all present and correct which was reassuring, but thought at that age/mileage it was time for them to retire...
Cleaned out the throttle body for good measure while was at it too.
Finally got round to picking up the spare IRD and rear diff
Both spin freely and no doubt could be fitted back into a FL but I am going to pull them apart and replace bearings, seals, and other parts where required
I want them buttery smooth ha ha
Both spin freely and no doubt could be fitted back into a FL but I am going to pull them apart and replace bearings, seals, and other parts where required
I want them buttery smooth ha ha
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't bother with changing rear diff bearings, as they never fail, and replacing the bearings could cause a whining noise, as special alignment of the pinion and crown wheel are needed on reassembly.
IRD is easy to do though, as there's nothing that requires alignment during a bearing change.
Yesterday I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and fuel filter, the filter was done not long ago but I fitted another while I was under the wheel arch anyway . I also changed the engine oil but the filter will have to wait until next time as I couldn't find a socket or box spanner to fit the moulded plastic nut on the filter housing.
. I also changed the engine oil but the filter will have to wait until next time as I couldn't find a socket or box spanner to fit the moulded plastic nut on the filter housing.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Flashing eml on G4 1.8. After driving flash floods.
Wow showed as misfire cyl 3.
Plug hole wet, dried out and all good.
Got telling off from wife for driving puddles!!
Wow showed as misfire cyl 3.
Plug hole wet, dried out and all good.
Got telling off from wife for driving puddles!!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I did that with my V6 once. It didn't really notice, but put the MIL on.
I love splashing through puddles. It's what Land Rovers were built to do.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Obviously not!! From my experience. Must look at sealing the plug lead tops with O rings or sommat.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Well yes, although the HT system should be water resistant, at least it would have been when new.
Diesels are more immune to water splashing, as long as they don't drink it.
This is one issue on the FL2, as the nearside wing vent is the engine air intake, which can draw in water through a particularly deep or splashy puddle.
Land rover are historically bad at waterproofing HT electric gubbins, one of my other landies is a D1 V8 - and I've had to get aftermarket silicon stuff cover the dizzy cap and such like. Now the thing is the V8 had a long career with military contracts in the 101 etc, long long before the Range Rover let alone its orphan stepchild the original discovery were even thought of. And apart from the v8, the British military used a lot of petrol landies in various forms such as the series 3, the lightweight etc so it beggars my belief that the company doesn't have a good understanding on waterproofing electrics. It's even more puzzling when you consider the grommits and ventilation system etc that are present in the FL1's electronics box.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Do Landrovers other than FL1s throw so much water on to the screen when driving gleefully through deep puddles? It's always entertaining
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
All the LRs I've ever owned, douse the windscreen large amounts of water from puddles.
The FL1 did it the least, the D3 was just like I'd driven under water, and the FL2 isn't much better, with the lighter FL1 coming last.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
It is fun, it sort of shoots up then lands and bricks the passengers!!
Not had any other car with ground clearance that I have driven through water that is deep so don't know if it is a special LR feature!!!
Not had any other car with ground clearance that I have driven through water that is deep so don't know if it is a special LR feature!!!
D3 is ace at the windscreen resembling a fish tank ha
Alibro
Well-Known Member
It's probably the short overhang at the front to give a good attack angle.All the LRs I've ever owned, douse the windscreen large amounts of water from puddles.
The FL1 did it the least, the D3 was just like I'd driven under water, and the FL2 isn't much better, with the lighter FL1 coming last.
