What engine did you get in the US version of the Freelander?
ChknMnky
New Member
The 2.5 v6. Seems healthy enough
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
bought it...
2010 FL2 TD4e GS, 103K in silver brand new 12 months MOT & no advisories
4 new ish General grabbers, brand new brakes all round
Initial observations:
booking in for cambelt asap, will try do oil & filters myself if weather holds this weekend.
2010 FL2 TD4e GS, 103K in silver brand new 12 months MOT & no advisories
4 new ish General grabbers, brand new brakes all round
Initial observations:
- Tyres at 16 psi all round ( been sat for a month before mot's
- bitty service history,
- no cam belt or Haldex services noted
- ****ty club classics CD In the CD player.
- Enough loose tobacco in glove box to roll a ciggie with
- surprised to find it has parking sensors
- blacked out rear windows not the easiest to navigate in reverse even with above mentioned sensors
- boot is tiny compared to previous cars, pushchair barely fits
booking in for cambelt asap, will try do oil & filters myself if weather holds this weekend.
Well - On my 2010 FLTD4 Auto I developed a case of the alternator light coming on after about 16secs after startup - found various references to the blue wire onto the alternator from the loom under the fuel filter breaking and causing the smart charge to fail. Sure enough I got 12.4v at the battery engine stopped, only 13.5v engine running - but no heated rear seats working - and Hawkeye reported P065B - generator range control. Now that wire is under the fuel filter which I needed to change anyway - also Hawkeye reporting P0380 - glowplug heater circuit A (had been for a while but never failed to start) so after reading Nodge's recent discussion on swirl flaps I bit the bullet.
Manifold off - 4 o/c glowplugs changed - brass rod pulled from the manifold and swirl flaps broken out (all in good nick at 98000 miles but very gunged up in spite of having the EGR blanked off for the last 5000 miles) manifold cleaned. Blue wire found broken as it leaves the loom and repaired. new filter fitted.
Cleared the DTCs and fired it up - Genny light stayed off -14.5v engine running and heated seats working again.
No DTCs - and I think it's a little quieter on tickover - not quite so clattery - still goes like a dingbat - even sharper from low revs if anything.
Not a pleasant job - took me a couple of days pottering along - absolutely must have kit is a set of 1/4" drive deep sockets - and a mirror.................
But - all done - happy bunny
Manifold off - 4 o/c glowplugs changed - brass rod pulled from the manifold and swirl flaps broken out (all in good nick at 98000 miles but very gunged up in spite of having the EGR blanked off for the last 5000 miles) manifold cleaned. Blue wire found broken as it leaves the loom and repaired. new filter fitted.
Cleared the DTCs and fired it up - Genny light stayed off -14.5v engine running and heated seats working again.
No DTCs - and I think it's a little quieter on tickover - not quite so clattery - still goes like a dingbat - even sharper from low revs if anything.
Not a pleasant job - took me a couple of days pottering along - absolutely must have kit is a set of 1/4" drive deep sockets - and a mirror.................
But - all done - happy bunny
I agree regarding the magnetic pick-up tool and I've just bought a couple of magnetic trays so I can hopefully stop bits reaching the undertray!
Changed the fuel filter on my '04 TD4, not my favourite job but at least it doesn't need doing often.
Lower engine tie bar was getting a bit soft so replaced the rubber in the bar. Engine appears much more stable.
Been trying to trace a knock from the front end so had a good root around underneath while I was there.
If I grab the driveshafts, I can move them up and down at both inboard and outboard ends. Not a lot but enough so I can hear the movement, if you know what I mean. Should there be any play in the driveshaft joints?
Changed the fuel filter on my '04 TD4, not my favourite job but at least it doesn't need doing often.
Lower engine tie bar was getting a bit soft so replaced the rubber in the bar. Engine appears much more stable.
Been trying to trace a knock from the front end so had a good root around underneath while I was there.
If I grab the driveshafts, I can move them up and down at both inboard and outboard ends. Not a lot but enough so I can hear the movement, if you know what I mean. Should there be any play in the driveshaft joints?
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Update the drive home from work highlighted that clutch has a minute amount of slip at peak torque, but only if using full throttle in 6th at 75 ish which didn’t notice on test drive so obviously in very early stages. Slightly miffed but will do some tests to confirm as I’ve read it can be cured by being agricultural with gear changes as things stick a bit. And I think it’s been sat a while longer than I was told.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
No. They move sideways to allow for articulation but shouldn't move up and down or front to back. Eurocarparts used to do recon GKN drive shafts which were better than aftermarket but not sure if they still do. Unfortunately aftermarket units don't last long and sometimes cause vibration while accelerating from new.
Usually drive shaft issues are worst on full lock.
Thanks Alibro but thats not good news as all four driveshafts seem to have a similar amount of play.
I get a small clunk when pulling away which I now assume must be coming from a driveshaft.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's not so good. Hopefully you can overcome these initial teething issues.
I've been using my FL2 SE this week for the first time. Misfire aside its really very nice to drive, and quite and comfortable.
I'm hoping I can cure the misfire soon, so I can really start to enjoy it.
Rank Amatuer
Well-Known Member
Passed its MOT with the help of new rear disks, pads & handbrake shoes. 3rd MOT since EGR blocked; emissions good.
MOT guy said "You've got a really clean one there." He was referring to the underside, not the interior.
MOT guy said "You've got a really clean one there." He was referring to the underside, not the interior.
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
hopefully, clutch didn't slip this morning but may have to look at rear engine mounts as feels like there's bit of play when taking up drive
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The engine is very softly suspended, presumably for noise and vibration resistance. My engine running on 3 cylinders shakes wildly, which is quite alarming.
Drive wise, there's not much that can go loose enough to cause slack, unless the DMF is on the way out. Mine however seems fine, even after the pounding it must be taking with this misfire issue.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
That's unusual as the rears normally last the life of the car. What's the mileage?
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
The engine is very softly suspended, presumably for noise and vibration resistance. My engine running on 3 cylinders shakes wildly, which is quite alarming.
Drive wise, there's not much that can go loose enough to cause slack, unless the DMF is on the way out. Mine however seems fine, even after the pounding it must be taking with this misfire issue.
I’ll have a check, my experience with this chassis in mondeo guise points me towards a rear engine mount as the gear leaver rises slightly more than normal, nothing major if it is, I’d change flywheel Anaya being fuel mass
Any idea on rough clutch cost these days at a garage?
Thanks
231,000 km, about 143,500 miles.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
There's no guarantee it's the drive shafts. It could be the propshaft front joint clunking, as the engine rocks under torque of moving away. Mine makes a clunk when I change direction, i.e. when I select reverse, then forward when maneuvering. Its just the slight play in the joint being taken up on mine, and is of no concern.
