Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Thank for that. Punctuation isn't my strong point.I imagined an extra comma in there, so I read it as "Sold one of them, the Tonga green 1.8. It looks like it's going to a good home for a new life."
Thank for that. Punctuation isn't my strong point.I imagined an extra comma in there, so I read it as "Sold one of them, the Tonga green 1.8. It looks like it's going to a good home for a new life."
I'm looking for suitable replacement for my SE, although I'm in no hurry. I'm thinking that a nice high spec V6 hardback with lowish miles and an LPG kit fitted would be a good replacement.and V6 in silver
Lovely vehicles, but outside my budget.An L322
I bought a D3 with mediocre maintenance from it's one owner. That thing, although lovely to drive, cost me the equivalent of 3 FL1 purchases in three years, and that was just the parts.The prices are coming down, usually because of lack of owner maintenance
Maybe, but the subsequent repair costs would be higher than a FL1. And the L322 seems to rust, which is something I don't really need to worry about with the FL1.Which I can tell wouldn’t be the case for you, so bargains are around. Just look at it as a new chapter in the learning cycle
The VCU is only a problem if incorrect tyre maintenance is done, and it's not replaced when it's tired. The VCU can live long (mine has 130K miles on it) and still functions correctly. I will be rebuilding my VCU later this year, so VCU isn't a problem for me, or most others in the know.seems to me the FL vcu thingymebob is more trouble than my electrickery
Yer can't sell yer scrap in ereAn L322
shall I leave
J
The prices are coming down, usually because of lack of owner maintenance. Which I can tell wouldn’t be the case for you, so bargains are around. Just look at it as a new chapter in the learning cycle
seems to me the FL vcu thingymebob is more trouble than my electrickery
anyway good luck in the search for a bargain.
J
See this is where you non-Freelandery types show your ignorance - and you have been firmly put in your place by the Freelander faithful.seems to me the FL vcu thingymebob is more trouble than my electrickery
See this is where you non-Freelandery types show your ignorance - and you have been firmly put in your place by the Freelander faithful.
VCUs don't cause any problems.
Until they completely **** up your car
The problem with them is that if you don't know they are there, or how to look after the car because it is there, they will eventually turn expensive parts of it to iron filings. Unfortunately most Freelander owners don't know its there or how to look after the car because of it. This twit didn't, until I got a quote for parts that was more than I paid for the vehicle when it was quite a desirable motor.
If you know its there and how to look after the car, they are brilliant, fantastically reliable things, that when they do eventually wear out, are not very expensive and quick/easy to replace. Unlike the electrickery stuff which, all by itself, can cause monumental problems and expense - just ask many Freelander2 owners
My whole post was rather tongue in cheek.Sorry marjon I didn't mean "to put anyone in their place" I was merely aiming to share my knowledge and expereince and dispel a few myths.
The problem with them is that if you don't know they are there, or how to look after the car
Sorry marjon I didn't mean "to put anyone in their place"
When driving yer vcu is sometimes under pressure from the front and rear props turning at differing speeds. A working vcu can accept the difference and take it out of the drive train. As soon as the props are at the same speed then stress applied across the vcu is gone. It doesn't need to time unwind as such. Theres no transmission wind up like ole tratters, which needs to be released. It's more a case there's stress in the transmission but only when pressure is applied because the vcu is resisting it. As soon as the pressure is gone the stress is gone.I only recently chaned mine at 156,000 miles. Being honest with you it probably should have been done sooner than that, but I believe the reason mine never created any problems is the first 88,000 on my freelander were long drives doing 30+miles each way commuting, for four years. The next 14 years its been doing mostly short journeys, so assuming the VCU was getting tired, I envisage it building up some latent torque in it, which it could then dissipate while stood still.
For example, if I drove it the 3 miles to my workshop for an afternoon playing spanner monkey, it would wind up a bit on the way there, then while I was at the workshop for say four hours, it would unwind while I played spanner monkey. When I drove home, 3 miles agian, it would slightly wind up again, but also unwind while stationary over night. Also being in north East Scotland, where the roads are usually covered in rain water and or tonnes of salt and grit, either or both of these on a roads surface effectively lowers its coefficient of friction, possibly allowing the small amount of torque wind up to disspiate by letting one of both axles slightly over or under rotate.
I think that if my freelander had continued to do ~22,000 miles a year in our ownership of it, as it did in its previous owners time with it, that viscous would have wrecked the other components in the transmission, namely the rear diff and the Intermediate Reduction Drive (transfer box) long before 120,000 miles. I also think that since the previous owner, and I both kept ontop of the tyre maintenance, and it has spent most of lits life running on relatively new tyres, that also helped eek the VCU out this long.
Living in scotland, a country that gets more rain fall per year than Borneo, I do not want to run on "semi slicks" as I call tyres on their last few millimetres of tread. Furthermore, its meant to be a mild offroader, while my freelander is never going to be an ultra-4 "Truggy" competition truck/buggy, but I don't want to get beaten by a damp muddy hill because my worn road tyres cannot get any grip, or stuck like an audi A4 quattro in 2cm of snow. So our one has usually ran either all terrains or mud tyres, change from muds to all terrains about easter, and back to muds about November, so the tyres aare changed and rotated twice a year.
I changed my VCU 156,000 mile VCU more to futureproof the cars reliability, than to remedy any issues experienced. It showed no signs of transmission wind up, but all the same, I was aware that at this mileage on it I was effectively playing russian roullete with the other components in the driveline by having such a high mileage VCU. I also know that making it to 156,000 on an origial VCU without problems is an edgecase and possibly a record? This "future proofing" is also the reason for a lot of other work I'm doing on the car just now, such as new wheel bearings, renewing and refurbing all the brakes etc...
However, if you budget on chancing your viscous at a more sensible mileage at somewhere between 80,000 & 100,000 miles, you are almost certain to dodge the transmission windup back diff and or IRD shredded bullet. and at say £400 for a new genuine GKN viscous with new bearings, assuming you fit it yourself rather than pay a garage labour rates to fit it, it works out at works half a pence per mile travelled, you probably spend more on screen wash than that? OR assuming your car does the theoretically typical 10,000 miles per year, its £400 every eight years, less than a pound a week to budget on the VCU. What ever way you crunch the numbers its not that much trouble if done properly. Neglect it though and it will bite a sizable chunk out of your ass, what are you looking at? A couple of grand for a recon IRD + Diff + new VCU & Bearings? Ouch!
Freelander 2's int that eggspensive ter repairSee this is where you non-Freelandery types show your ignorance - and you have been firmly put in your place by the Freelander faithful.
VCUs don't cause any problems.
Until they completely **** up your car
The problem with them is that if you don't know they are there, or how to look after the car because it is there, they will eventually turn expensive parts of it to iron filings. Unfortunately most Freelander owners don't know its there or how to look after the car because of it. This twit didn't, until I got a quote for parts that was more than I paid for the vehicle when it was quite a desirable motor.
If you know its there and how to look after the car, they are brilliant, fantastically reliable things, that when they do eventually wear out, are not very expensive and quick/easy to replace. Unlike the electrickery stuff which, all by itself, can cause monumental problems and expense - just ask many Freelander2 owners
Does anyone else have this sort of experience?
As my daily drive, I use my 15yr old 140K+ TD4 every day. Some days it just feels worn out, every knock, rattle, uneven running or even creaking wipers make me worried about the possibilty of expensive bills. Other days however - like today - it drives lovely and smooth and everything works just as it should, even the folding mirrors and all the windows. I expect now I've posted this I'll be starting a new thread in the next few days about some new issue giving me concern.
Does anyone else have this sort of experience?