Jayridium said:
What about a rover 75 v6 MOT failure
Click to expand...
There are too many additional items needed, for a 75 to be a good source of parts.
Jayridium said:
or a freelander v6 with catastrophic transmission wind up - viscous and rear diff and or IRD?
Click to expand...
That's a possibility, but as the V6 IRD is unique to the V6, it means finding another in good condition.

andyfreelandy said:
Idea. Will search for one if I definately decide to go that way. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I'd stick to finding a crashed V6 FL1, as you'll need so many parts. ;)
 
@andyfreelandy Regardless of what engine you put in it, for fifteen quid, this has to be a compulsory purchase for your aforementioned tangiers orange one:
s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...400593?hash=item43bccd9d51:g:lSUAAMXQ8ABRke0T
 
Today I picked up a replacement alternator for my 1.8 XEI facelift, and met up with @andyfreelandy on a very convoluted drive home. It was good to chat about Freelander's, diagnostics and other stuff.
Thanks for lunch Andy. We'll meet up again at some point. ;)
 
It was yesterday, but I couldn't be bothered to mess about with a misbehaving forum.

I fitted a shiny new battery to my Tonga green project 1.8 XEi.
20200112_095423.jpg

I then replaced the rusty rear light fixing screws with some nice new stainless screws.
20200112_113241.jpg
20200112_123028.jpg
20200112_123052.jpg
 
I like little attention to detail items like that - but I'm not sure it its me or what, in those last pictures your tonga green looks blue?
 
Jayridium said:
I like little attention to detail items like that - but I'm not sure it its me
Click to expand...
It's a personal thing, but I don't like to see rusty screws, or rust stains on the light lenses.
Jayridium said:
in those last pictures your tonga green looks blue?
Click to expand...
The pictures of the stainless screws replacing the rusty screws were of my Cairns blue TD4 SE. The Tonga green 1.8 XEi project rear lights are still using standard black screws. I'm not planning on changing those, keeping that upgrade for my SE.;)
 
Well, wanted to start a thread but keeps coming up with server error, so maybe here will work.

Got new Freelander 1 td4 2004 and found out why chap selling - hideously thirsty. Doing my usual checks and what not to it and found the vacuum hose to EGR solenoid split (replacing all vacuum hoses as matter of course).
Now, it got me thinking whether this could be cause of excessive fuel consumption. I think I read that the vacuum hose system has to maintain overall integrity for it to work properly, so could the split in that vacuum hose compromise the vacuum to the turbo solenoid?
 
@TSR2 I like that - it looks in its element there :) What a novel way of cleaning the intercooler :)

Meanwhile up in pedronapper, I've been busy, I've not been keeping a project thread, but around halloween I put a new VCU and front diff mount on it as preventitive maintenance, and since Christmas I've:
  • retrofitted a facelift centre console to my hippos dashboard
  • installed a (cheap placeholder) doubledin radio
  • dropped the headlining
    • fitted a new aerial
    • ran some wiring for additional interior lights at the front of the cabin
I'll wire in the additional lights when I'm waiting on paint to dry on the mechanical bits, which brings me nicely to...

Since new year, I've been tearing the back axle/suspension to bits;
  • All the bolts for the back suspension had seized into the bushes
    • so they were sliced off with a reciprocating saw
    • the seized pivot bolt has been removed from the hub body
    • new links and pivot bolts are sitting one of the workbenches
      • the toe control adjustment links have been stripped and copperslipped
  • the back hubs are off
    • the back wheel bearings are out - new bearings on a bench
    • diffpan has been removed as the filler plug had seized in it
    • new pan and filler plug sitting on the bench
  • the shafts are obviously out so they will get their noses cleaned up and new ABS rings fitted
    • since the shafts are out I'm putting in new diff seals
    • I've already dropped the propshaft, removed the diff flange
    • removed the diff seals
Next few days at the workshop will see me:
  • needle-gunning the hub bodies
  • clean the shafts
  • paint the hub bodies and drive shafts
  • clean the diff faces
  • wire in the extra lights
  • fit the new ABS rings
  • fit the diff pan
  • fit the diff seals
Will probably give the inner arches a quick descaling, kurust then hammerite while I'm at it. Then its "a simple reassembly":
  • refit driveshafts
  • build up suspension links
  • mount hubs with two sets of camber bolts
  • build up brakes with new drums and shoes and shoes fitting kit
  • make new brake lines from wheel cylinder to flexihoses and fit new bleed nipples
    • old pipe ends and nipples are already removed
 
Good stuff. While it is that stripped may as well drop the rear subframes off and de rust and paint.
Don't forget to check the brake lines, easier to get at with rear suspension out of the way.
What is needle-gunning? I need a way to clean hubs without taking bearing out as they are OK and without filling bearings with grit!!!
 
This is a needlegun in action...

I kind of wish you hadn't suggested the subframe, as I am likely to do that now, when I wasn't planning on dropping that at this time.
 
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