Fitted some silicone induction hoses so it's not hissing now. Also replaced a few maggoty-looking vacuum hoses, but chickened out of doing the long one that goes from the vacuum reservoir, right round the back of the engine and down to somewhere near the turbo, 'cause it looked like it was going to start raining! Will do that one when I get it indoors.
In the meantime, discovered that it has, at some point in its life, been fitted with one of those silly "cheat" boxes that's supposed to give you more power by making the engine management system think that the incoming air is colder than it is! Have binned that now, and can't say I've noticed any loss of power at all but hopefully, it'll be fractionally better on fuel now! (And maybe won't smoke as much when I boot it, if I'm lucky)!
In the meantime, discovered that it has, at some point in its life, been fitted with one of those silly "cheat" boxes that's supposed to give you more power by making the engine management system think that the incoming air is colder than it is! Have binned that now, and can't say I've noticed any loss of power at all but hopefully, it'll be fractionally better on fuel now! (And maybe won't smoke as much when I boot it, if I'm lucky)!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, it doesn't do anything to the ar temp, just makes the ecu make the hp pump work harder by affecting the fuel rail pressure sensor reading.
Ah, thanks. Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought they fed duff information about air temperature to the ECU so it thought the incoming air was colder (and therefore more dense) and gave it a bit more fuel accordingly. Is that not the case? Does it just tell the ECU that the fuel pressure is too low or something, so that it increases it?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
As Andy said, it fools the EDC into thinking the rail pressure is lower than it actually is. The EDC then raises the rail pressure to a higher level than it should be. This in turn causes more fuel to be injected, which increases power (a diesel is throttled by fuel mass), giving the engine a power boost. More advanced boost boxes also tweak the MAF signal, allowing increased air to be measured, again increasing fuel throughput.
I think the Synergy 2 allows the TD4 to push out about 140 Bhp, but at the expense of 3 HP pumps in my case, and a damaged torque converter clutch.
Thanks Nodge, What's an EDC?
Presumably, unless they can also do something to the turbo wastegate and increase the boost, all these devices do, is make it run a bit richer? I can't think of any other way they'd be able to get more air in to take advantage of the extra fuel? OK, I know diesels give best power when they are running a bit rich, but then they smoke a bit, so maybe Landrover mapped it quite lean for emissions reasons, but 110 to 140 horse seems like quite a lot by just giving it more fuel?
Presumably, unless they can also do something to the turbo wastegate and increase the boost, all these devices do, is make it run a bit richer? I can't think of any other way they'd be able to get more air in to take advantage of the extra fuel? OK, I know diesels give best power when they are running a bit rich, but then they smoke a bit, so maybe Landrover mapped it quite lean for emissions reasons, but 110 to 140 horse seems like quite a lot by just giving it more fuel?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Electronic Diesel Control. An ecu for diesels!!
Ta. I wish manufacturers would all call them the same thing!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
EDC is the name for the ECU which controls a diesel engine.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
A flexy head 27mm spanner helps. I struggled but managed to do mine without. Next time i will have one ready.Changed the oil and filter on me FL2, wow, that filter cover is a right tw@t to get at
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Had a very frustrating day with my project 1.8 XEi. I wanted to charge the battery, as the 20 watt solar panel I had connected to it simply wasn't doing the job over the winter. So I opened the door, only to find an inch of water in the driver's side foot well.
So then I tried to charge it, and my smart charger simply refused to charge the battery, illuminating the fault light instead.
So I start the engine using my booster pack, only to find the bloody alternator has now packed up.
On the plus side, I did get the front bumper off for repair or replacement, I'm not sure which way to go on that yet. I also fitted a pair of replacement headlights, and gave them a polish with a rejuvenating kit.
Next job will be removed the alternator for refurb, and repair / replace the front bumper.
So then I tried to charge it, and my smart charger simply refused to charge the battery, illuminating the fault light instead.
So I start the engine using my booster pack, only to find the bloody alternator has now packed up.
On the plus side, I did get the front bumper off for repair or replacement, I'm not sure which way to go on that yet. I also fitted a pair of replacement headlights, and gave them a polish with a rejuvenating kit.
Next job will be removed the alternator for refurb, and repair / replace the front bumper.
Odd? I've never heard a manufacturer call it that!EDC is the name for the ECU which controls a diesel engine.
Bounty
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I'll not be doing that, as I'm selling it as soon as it's sorted.Stick a temperature sensor on it while it's off
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's a Bosch thing. Mercedes also call it an EDC.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Well I never knew that! I just remembered I have a Bosch Automotive Handbook on my shelf, and sure enough, it does appear in the glossary!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I hate battery chargers that do that. I'm lucky to have an old school charger that will charge anything. I just need to be careful or it will take the battery over 15V if I leave it.Had a very frustrating day with my project 1.8 XEi. I wanted to charge the battery, as the 20 watt solar panel I had connected to it simply wasn't doing the job over the winter. So I opened the door, only to find an inch of water in the driver's side foot well.
So then I tried to charge it, and my smart charger simply refused to charge the battery, illuminating the fault light instead.
So I start the engine using my booster pack, only to find the bloody alternator has now packed up.
On the plus side, I did get the front bumper off for repair or replacement, I'm not sure which way to go on that yet. I also fitted a pair of replacement headlights, and gave them a polish with a rejuvenating kit.
View attachment 197649
Next job will be removed the alternator for refurb, and repair / replace the front bumper.
Have you tried connecting it to another battery with jump leads and then connecting the charger. Usually once the charger has started charging it will be OK to disconnect the good battery.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes, smart chargers are a PITA, if the battery voltage is lower than it should be.
I do have an old school transformer based charger, which I inherited from my dad. Tonight I'm going to check how the car is drying out, and remove the battery for charging on the old school charger.
If it's not charged by Wednesday, I'm going to order a new 027 battery, which are surprisingly cheap.
I've then got an alternator to sort too.
