Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not unless it was faulty. Although brake components are best changed in pairs, to avoid imbalances.
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
I have just been for a run round and when I press the brake I can here a knocking noise on rear OS so I will investigate the prob laterNot unless it was faulty. Although brake components are best changed in pairs, to avoid imbalances.
I'm just going to strip ball joints on front
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
If the arms are new, did they come with ball joints? If so, they didn't last long by the sounds of it. Also maybe the ball joints may not be riveted in the same way as Nodge describes but also presumably the bush would not be so problematical meaning a complete (OEM) arm and joint might be a good idea.
Even if you don't investigate the actual fault with the back brakes yet, I think I'd be taking both drums off and checking the integrity of the parts inside to make sure it is not something that will all of a sudden become something catastrophic. There have been numerous threads on here where cars loose all braking ability due to faults with a rear brake.
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
I think there is something broken in the brake drum I could hear a knocking noise on rear when braking
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
There could be a broken shoe hold pin, those do rust an fail.
My nearside drum has started making a scuffing sound when I turn right. So I've go some investigation and replacing to do before the MOT.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Yes but you have to drill the old ones out not worth the hassel (Unless you like hassel?)
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
But eaiser if you remove the housing as well as its just two very long bolts
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
Done them mate just need to put back on
The car
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
I've removed the rear hub all I can see is that when I press the brake is a little catch on the brake shoe and it keeps turning the adjuster wheel sort of making the brake adjustment tighter
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's what's supposed to happen. You'll nees to back the adjuster off, before putting the drum back on.
Make sure both shoes still have there spring clips, holding them down to the backplate.
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
I've just ordered a new spring kit and brake cylinder as that is only operating on 1 shoe other than that I can't find anything wrong so why it's fluctuating is beyond meThat's what's supposed to happen. You'll nees to back the adjuster off, before putting the drum back on.
Make sure both shoes still have there spring clips, holding them down to the backplate.
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Regretting selling it
Yes I know it was bit of a lemon for those that remeber it and my little issues with it but Ishould of kept it as I'd had the VCU done and the injector harness upgrade and all the rear diff bushes
Anoying thing is its only done 1500 miles since I sold it nealry 2 years ago according to the mot history so its not being used much
Yes I know it was bit of a lemon for those that remeber it and my little issues with it but Ishould of kept it as I'd had the VCU done and the injector harness upgrade and all the rear diff bushes
Anoying thing is its only done 1500 miles since I sold it nealry 2 years ago according to the mot history so its not being used much
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Don't look back, only forward, get another one.Regretting selling it
Yes I know it was bit of a lemon for those that remeber it and my little issues with it but Ishould of kept it as I'd had the VCU done and the injector harness upgrade and all the rear diff bushes
Anoying thing is its only done 1500 miles since I sold it nealry 2 years ago according to the mot history so its not being used much
Col
freelandy2004
Active Member
just ordered a set of 225 65 17 Geolandars G015 and some ebc green stuff pads for the front
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
Feeling happy and relieved today. It has been 170km since I changed the thermostat and the rad hoses on the V6.
When I got home today I pulled the engine cover and found the vee of the engine bone dry.
I hope the next project ends as well. Yesterday I ordered a new L/H cylinder head an oil pump and some other miscellaneous bits for the engine
in the hopes that I can get rid of my elusive tappety noise. If this doesn't do it i'm going to have to live with it!
When I got home today I pulled the engine cover and found the vee of the engine bone dry.
I hope the next project ends as well. Yesterday I ordered a new L/H cylinder head an oil pump and some other miscellaneous bits for the engine
in the hopes that I can get rid of my elusive tappety noise. If this doesn't do it i'm going to have to live with it!
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Feeling happy and relieved today. It has been 170km since I changed the thermostat and the rad hoses on the V6.
When I got home today I pulled the engine cover and found the vee of the engine bone dry.
I hope the next project ends as well. Yesterday I ordered a new L/H cylinder head an oil pump and some other miscellaneous bits for the engine
in the hopes that I can get rid of my elusive tappety noise. If this doesn't do it i'm going to have to live with it!
Vis Valves on their way out? they get a bit tappety when starting to fail,
LUKBENPHI
Well-Known Member
Funds wont alow currently and pondering saving up for a FL2 after wedding is paid off
DCUNNINGHAM
Active Member
Fitted new brake cylinder, new brake pipe , new shoe kit , and drum today for the retest on Saturday morning .
There is nothing else I can do now hopefully the brakes arnt still fluctuating
There is nothing else I can do now hopefully the brakes arnt still fluctuating
Rich in Vancouver
Well-Known Member
It's not the VIS valves. I've replaced them with uprated ones by Stocktake off the 75/ZT forum and have had the intake apart to make sure the valves
are all OK. Using a stethoscope it sounds like the noise is coming from #2 or the #4 portion of the head. I'm hoping that the new head will cure it.
