davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Caramel latte. How quickly did you notice?
tonytherunner
Active Member
Pretty fast,i checking oil every week .....CRAZY STUFF .
....the old payen head gasket has gone .....So i think will go with MLS
....the old payen head gasket has gone .....So i think will go with MLS
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Pretty fast,i checking oil every week .....CRAZY STUFF .
....the old payen head gasket has gone .....So i think will go with MLS
Measure the liner heights very accurately before going to the MLS gasket. Any variances of more the 1 thou between adjacent liners or if any are less than 2 thou above the block, then don't use the MLS. If liner heights are within the above spec, then make sure you use the strengthened oil rail and stronger bolts.
If liner heights are under 2 thou or adjacent liners are more than 1 thou out, then use the latest Payen BW750 gasket with blue elastomer beads.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rover-k-series-head-gasket-payen-bw750-elastomer-lvb000320
tonytherunner
Active Member
The gasket looks badly,oil sealer has gone ,but no signs to lose compression.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Standard old K series gasket problem.
Replace it with the latest Payen BW750 gasket with the blue elastomer.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
So, rocked up at mum and dad's house today after work to borrow their garage for a quick oil and filter change on the TD4. Got everything ready to go and was all good until I realised that my socket set was still on the old fella's boat, out on it's mooring. A good long rummage through his ramshackle bunch of tool boxes and I found an old 1/4" - 5/16" Whitworth combi wrench. It was just the job. Fitted perfectly. I just wish he'd still got the Triumph T100R that he had all the old imperial tools for!
Alex Blyth
Member
Had my Td4 for three weeks now . So far I have serviced it , done the EGR delete , replaced the bonnet release cable ,fixed the door speakers (no need to replace just cleaned all contacts) . I have ordered second hand rear window seals as the two on the back are badly rusted. The aerial will be replaced at same time as this was missing. On Saturday I am making my way to Gemm 4x4 in Larbert (very close to me) who have very kindly fitted me in at short notice to make sure my VCU is gone and then remove the propshaft for me until I can afford a decent refurb VCU. They quoted me half an hour to an hour max for the job. At £40 an hour I couldnt say no as compared to many a garage out there that is a cracking hourly rate for somewhere who specializes in the Land Rover marque.
Once that's removed I will pop in a bottle of comma diesel magic and take her for a run. I still have a few bits to do with the next being a replacement of the anti-freeze and flush the system (any threads on here or links to do this? ). This is a car I am glad I saved from being a very cheap trade in for my brother in law as I ended up with it for nothing courtesy of my generous father in law.
Once that's removed I will pop in a bottle of comma diesel magic and take her for a run. I still have a few bits to do with the next being a replacement of the anti-freeze and flush the system (any threads on here or links to do this? ). This is a car I am glad I saved from being a very cheap trade in for my brother in law as I ended up with it for nothing courtesy of my generous father in law.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Nice one.Had my Td4 for three weeks now . So far I have serviced it , done the EGR delete , replaced the bonnet release cable ,fixed the door speakers (no need to replace just cleaned all contacts) . I have ordered second hand rear window seals as the two on the back are badly rusted. The aerial will be replaced at same time as this was missing. On Saturday I am making my way to Gemm 4x4 in Larbert (very close to me) who have very kindly fitted me in at short notice to make sure my VCU is gone and then remove the propshaft for me until I can afford a decent refurb VCU. They quoted me half an hour to an hour max for the job. At £40 an hour I couldnt say no as compared to many a garage out there that is a cracking hourly rate for somewhere who specializes in the Land Rover marque.
Once that's removed I will pop in a bottle of comma diesel magic and take her for a run. I still have a few bits to do with the next being a replacement of the anti-freeze and flush the system (any threads on here or links to do this? ). This is a car I am glad I saved from being a very cheap trade in for my brother in law as I ended up with it for nothing courtesy of my generous father in law.
Doing all the right things, as for bleeding I just disconnected the bottom rad hose to empty mine. To refill I topped up the header tank with the bleed screw loosened (plastic screw on one of the hoses that go through the bulkhead) until coolant bubbled out and with the heater control set to hot. Did it slowly over 30 minutes or so then started the engine with the header cap off and topped up when needed.I'm not sure if this is the correct method but seemed to work fine.
Alex Blyth
Member
So I have to say how pleased I am with the resulting visit to Gemm 4x4 this morning. They fitted me in at short notice and were true to their word. £20 to remove the propshaft and more importantly some valuable info on what I need to do underneath the car.
It turns out the IRD could be the issue rather than the VCU. However removing the propshaft has stopped the creaking and grinding noises from the vehicle as there is no longer stress on the rear end. I have a leak from somewhere around the gearbox area so they have suggested we remove the undertray clean the whole area and run it to find the problem as there is a fair bit of residue on the undertray and surrounding area. I need a new fuel tank support but the propshaft bearing and rear diff (iirc) bearings have been replaced and are in good condition. So I now have a direction to go with my repairs. This morning was very informative and their mechanic couldnt have been more helpful. On the way home put half a tank of Shell diesel in with a bottle of Comma Diesel treatment which was only £4.87 from Halfords courtesy of the trade card (really worthwhile getting one of those).
They are even storing my propshaft all labelled up with my name for when I get another IRD. No rush as the car is driving great with the shaft removed.
It turns out the IRD could be the issue rather than the VCU. However removing the propshaft has stopped the creaking and grinding noises from the vehicle as there is no longer stress on the rear end. I have a leak from somewhere around the gearbox area so they have suggested we remove the undertray clean the whole area and run it to find the problem as there is a fair bit of residue on the undertray and surrounding area. I need a new fuel tank support but the propshaft bearing and rear diff (iirc) bearings have been replaced and are in good condition. So I now have a direction to go with my repairs. This morning was very informative and their mechanic couldnt have been more helpful. On the way home put half a tank of Shell diesel in with a bottle of Comma Diesel treatment which was only £4.87 from Halfords courtesy of the trade card (really worthwhile getting one of those).
They are even storing my propshaft all labelled up with my name for when I get another IRD. No rush as the car is driving great with the shaft removed.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You'll need a replacement VCU as well as an IRD. The IRD only fails due to the stresses a stiff VCU puts on it.
freelandy2004
Active Member
replaced my fuel pump today the old one had gone very noisy last couple of days then today total lack of power
all sorted now
all sorted now
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I did the same with black stone chip. Not sure how long it will last but looks great for now.Today I actually managed to have a couple of hours without rain, so I could make a start on painting my faded mirror shells.
I'll upload before and after pics, when I can get it to work.
htr
Well-Known Member
You have my sympathy and complete understanding! I'm in the middle of that situation myself!
tonytherunner
Active Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's what I used. Although it's actually dark grey, rather than black.
Before. (Driver's side)
After (passenger side)
It's a huge improvement on how it looked. I can't wait to get the other mirror, scuttle panel and spare wheel carrier done.
I'm also interested to see how long the stone chip finish lasts.
The painted door mirrors look great. And so do the others I've seen using stonechip for the wheel carrier etc. Seeing the oily marks from splatted flies on my grey faded mirrors look terrible now too. So with the decent weather, I'm going to take the plunge too, and use some stonechip. Did you use any primer, of go straight on with the stonechip?
Another summer job I have got myself is retro-fitting a FBH. I managed to get the scrappy to take off the associated pipes intact, so I can upgrade mine, as there appears to be an extra valve thing in the middle of them, and of course the additional hose to the front wing. I'll have to be a bit creative though, as like Winu, I have the bumper mounted fogs that seem to eat into the space the heater usually occupies. I will post pictures of progress on this!
Another summer job I have got myself is retro-fitting a FBH. I managed to get the scrappy to take off the associated pipes intact, so I can upgrade mine, as there appears to be an extra valve thing in the middle of them, and of course the additional hose to the front wing. I'll have to be a bit creative though, as like Winu, I have the bumper mounted fogs that seem to eat into the space the heater usually occupies. I will post pictures of progress on this!
+ 1 to that
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i got around to trying the highest setting on the DGB1 turbo-controller
( the non dpf range .. setting 8 )
very nice .. be like having a no.11 on the ronbox ..
no over-boost occurence or glitches at all ..
even better .. mpg has improved by a factor of 1 ..
( noted after 3 fill-ups .. same daily driving route )
btw: using the lower settings did not give better mpg ..
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