Alibro said:

Is 240 grit too harsh, will you need to do it again with 400 or 600? I used a nylon scrubber to clean mine up and was worried I could leave scratches so 240 grit?????.
I don't know the answer so hopefully someone else will chip in.

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It depends on how the surface was flatted, more the grade used. It's not uncommon to run a flycutter over the head to flat it off. This can leave very defined, circular cut lines in the surface. These don't normally cause sealing issues. The elastomer should be able to seal them up tight. The fire rings will conform to whatever the surface finish happen to be, as they are very soft.
With a head to block seal, flatness is more important than how fine the finish is. In engineering terms, a 240 finish is quite fine and is similar to that applied to new bores before an engine is run.

Alibro said:

Is 240 grit too harsh, will you need to do it again with 400 or 600? I used a nylon scrubber to clean mine up and was worried I could leave scratches so 240 grit?????.
I don't know the answer so hopefully someone else will chip in.

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To aid cooling you could open up those coolant holes in the head with a Dremel or similar.

I've not seen a block or head surface like that before.

Right! Head's been given a fresh face with a much finer finish. Ready for reassembly in the morning.

htr said:

To aid cooling you could open up those coolant holes in the head with a Dremel or similar.

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Perhaps the coolant ways on cylinders 1 and 4 need to be slightly smaller than those between cylinders 2 and 3. This would force more coolant through the hottest part of the block. Just thinking out loud really. In light of your recent HGF.

All reassembled and running again. Oil flush done. Just some final checks and adjustments to be done - especially the coolant level / bleeding.

I did an oil flush once but was concerned some of the flush was left after draining which would have thinned the new oil. I changed it again after a few miles to be sure.

htr said:

All reassembled and running again. Oil flush done. Just some final checks and adjustments to be done - especially the coolant level / bleeding.

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Good luck, hope its sorted.

used some left over sound proofing to quieten down the fuel pump noises which can often heard
in the background

done the one wheel up test to monitor the VCU first run 40 sec then the next 2 both 35 sec
so quite happy with that 5kg weight 1200mm bar

Spent most of the day trying to recalibrate the rear tailgate window tried various methods non worked rear door card off motor feels very warm think this might be the cause

Malcolm green said:

Spent most of the day trying to recalibrate the rear tailgate window tried various methods non worked rear door card off motor feels very warm think this might be the cause

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did you disconnect the battery?

Alibro said:

did you disconnect the battery?

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Oh yes many times

Malcolm green said:

Oh yes many times

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Whats it doing wrong?

Alibro said:

Whats it doing wrong?

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Window comes Dow about 3 inches press the button it goes up it beeps then comes down again

Malcolm green said:

Window comes Dow about 3 inches press the button it goes up it beeps then comes down again

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Sounds like a motor switch fault to me.

Work in progress...give some paint and i need to say is much better....new camshaft oil seal .

Well today I had the pleasure of replacing one of the two rear window regulators that needed replaced and replacing both rear door glass channel runs and quarter glass. Mine were both badly rusted at the bottom of the verticals. The regulator without motor arrived at under £20 with an alleged two year warranty . Even if it lasts 6 months I know what a doddle it was to fix. A good point to remember for others if replacing rear regulators is to have the electric motor wound down . It makes life easy when removing the bolt that secures the glass to the regulator. Also if replacing the seals with quarter glass lube is your friend.
These jobs took about an hour or so with a cup of tea.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272413280025

Alex Blyth said:

Well today I had the pleasure of replacing one of the two rear window regulators that needed replaced and replacing both rear door glass channel runs and quarter glass. Mine were both badly rusted at the bottom of the verticals. The regulator without motor arrived at under £20 with an alleged two year warranty . Even if it lasts 6 months I know what a doddle it was to fix. A good point to remember for others if replacing rear regulators is to have the electric motor wound down . It makes life easy when removing the bolt that secures the glass to the regulator. Also if replacing the seals with quarter glass lube is your friend.
These jobs took about an hour or so with a cup of tea.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272413280025

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Nice one, only issue with having the motor wound down is quite often the cables break with the window up. If that happens it is very awkward but doable to release the bolt holding the glass to get the regulator out.

Yes. I should have said my cable wasnt broken it was the two plastic cable clips at the ends of the regulator that had snapped. If the cable is snapped you should be able to just manually pull the window down. If you cant do that then just fiddle about with a 10mm ratchet spanner to remove the bolt with the window up.

htr said:

All reassembled and running again. Oil flush done. Just some final checks and adjustments to be done - especially the coolant level / bleeding.

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Well, all back together again and I've had it running. 1st start was very easy. I wound the motor over without the plugs in to get oil to the valve & cam gear, that worked a treat and the start was straight away and all was quiet. I took care with the filling of the cooling system too, heater on full, both bleed screws out, filled and when no bubbles in the lower bleed point replaced its screw, continued and did the same with the upper one too, filled coolant tank to the max mark put cap on tight and started it. I let it idle in the driveway for a good 20 to 30 min's, gave it the occasional rev, nothing much maybe 2500 to 3000 rpm. 'Massaged' the radiator and heater hoses as best I could. The bottom hose grew hot and the oil lines to the cooler got hot too so all looked good. When inside and after giving the throttle a prod I could hear gurgling in the heater - I should have paid attention to that. Coolant level was stable so I went for a short gentle drive, about 4 to 5 km round the block via the main road. My low coolant light came on so I stopped and had a look, the coolant was low in the tank, I topped it up and gently drove the last 2km home. Idling in the driveway all seemed well but the coolant tank would suddenly fill to the brim! I siphoned a bit out but it did it again.The fans came on and it went down to a normal level and when I gave the throttle a tweek it would drop too. I think there was an air lock - bugger! I don't think I've damaged anything like the HG... but have to admit to a fair amount of paranoia!

I left it and the next afternoon I checked the coolant and it had dropped to about the low mark. I topped it up to the max and started it again this time I left the coolant cap loose. Massaged the hoses again... all seemed to heat up as expected oil pressure and temp all good, coolant temp gauge normal too. I Left it for another day and the coolant had lowered again just below the low mark. Topped up and repeated the warm up process... That was Tuesday and I haven't got back to it to check.

I hope it's just air working its way out of the system. I've not experienced air lock problems before so am both puzzled and concerned.

I hope to God it's not a liner prob', but if it is I've got those shims now so will have to have the head off again... I'll have a practice on my spare motor first to see how hard liners are to reseal with everything in situ before I pull anything apart.