DastardlyDan
Active Member
Today's achievement: nudged over 100mph, on a private track 
(L series FL1)
(L series FL1)
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Today's achievement: nudged over 100mph, on a private track
Ooeerr, wobble wobble or nice and steady? Managed 110 in my MGF and that was driving through a corner but wouldn't want to go much faster in it as it needs new bushes. Don't think the K series Freelander would get near that speed on the track I was on.
DastardlyDan
Active Member
nope, was quite serene, and smooth (certainly smoother than at 40mph by comparison)
Peak power is at around 4200rpm on any L series, which is approx 98mph. 4500rpm is around 105mph.. but I wouldn't want to put it under load at 5000rpm for more than a few moments, even though it would put it at around 115mph, lol
Also, the rated "maximum" speed of the L series hippo, is 90mph
Peak power is at around 4200rpm on any L series, which is approx 98mph. 4500rpm is around 105mph.. but I wouldn't want to put it under load at 5000rpm for more than a few moments, even though it would put it at around 115mph, lol
Also, the rated "maximum" speed of the L series hippo, is 90mph
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Fitted a Synergy 2A tuning chip. What a difference!
Smoother through the gears, loads of extra grunt ( got it on setting 3)
Roughly 400rpm less at 60mph. Waiting to see if we get a few more mpg.
Mike
Smoother through the gears, loads of extra grunt ( got it on setting 3)
Roughly 400rpm less at 60mph. Waiting to see if we get a few more mpg.
Mike
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
kev1nlm
Active Member
I understand all that, I'm just struggling to understand how it can alter your gear ratios! Lol
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Don't think about the ratios.
If you have air con and switch it on the rpm increases due to the load on your engine, yet your speed stays the same.
The tuning box is aimed at making the engine burn fuel more efficiently, our diesel is quite powerful compared to the stuff you get in India (as an example). So you can set the engine to produce more torque at a lower rpm.
As I said before, have a search on the net about it, its quite interesting.
Mike
DastardlyDan
Active Member
I think what he's getting at.... is adding more fuel, can't change what engine speed is required for a set speed.
EG: Mine will do roughly 70mph at 3000rpm. I can add the largest turbo in the world, nitrous, etc... it will still need 3000rpm to do 70mph.
To change this, you'd need to change the gearing. Or, it's cocked up your speedo/tacho sensor, making the clocks read incorrectly :lol:
EG: Mine will do roughly 70mph at 3000rpm. I can add the largest turbo in the world, nitrous, etc... it will still need 3000rpm to do 70mph.
To change this, you'd need to change the gearing. Or, it's cocked up your speedo/tacho sensor, making the clocks read incorrectly :lol:
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kev1nlm
Active Member
yep, thats what I'm getting at!
if it takes 0.8 turns of the engine to turn the wheels once in 5th its still gonna take that no matter how much torque you've got! Just as a point of interest I have fitted a ronbox on my L series and the difference is amazing, the low down torque is fantastic a massive difference from standard.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Here you go
Fuel savings as a useful extra effect
An enhanced ignition map leads to raised levels of efficiency, which in turn leads to reduced fuel consumption. The increase in torque facilitates a driving performance that requires fewer revs per minute and less accelerator pressure to achieve a given acceleration, therefore significantly lowering levels of fuel consumption. According to driving performance, savings of fuel consumption of between 10% and 20% are possible, meaning that your tuning system pays for itself very quickly.
Taken from
How Diesel Tuning works
Hope this helps to explain it. It is a bit mind bending, but I ain't making it up. Been on here too long to try and pull the wool over anybody's eyes.
Glad you like your ronbox as well.
All the best
Mike
Fuel savings as a useful extra effect
An enhanced ignition map leads to raised levels of efficiency, which in turn leads to reduced fuel consumption. The increase in torque facilitates a driving performance that requires fewer revs per minute and less accelerator pressure to achieve a given acceleration, therefore significantly lowering levels of fuel consumption. According to driving performance, savings of fuel consumption of between 10% and 20% are possible, meaning that your tuning system pays for itself very quickly.
Taken from
How Diesel Tuning works
Hope this helps to explain it. It is a bit mind bending, but I ain't making it up. Been on here too long to try and pull the wool over anybody's eyes.
Glad you like your ronbox as well.
All the best
Mike
DastardlyDan
Active Member
I fitted a 2k Ohm variable resistor across the pump... similar effect, for less than a fiver, lol
Also fitted some SDi injectors, for a bit more poke over that too.
Also fitted some SDi injectors, for a bit more poke over that too.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
To get that extra torque, it pumps in 20% more fuel, so that you can put it in a higher gear and achieve a 20% reduction in revs!
In pumping extra fuel in, less accelerator pressure is required. Or you can turn it off and put your foot down a bit more.
Of course a guy in a garage with an Apple Mac can get more power AND fuel economy AND reliability out of the engines than the combined might of Land Rover, BMW, Bosch & all the motor industry analysis. Maybe he just knows how to kick more s**t into the atmosphere.
Grumpy by name! Placebo.
In pumping extra fuel in, less accelerator pressure is required. Or you can turn it off and put your foot down a bit more.
Of course a guy in a garage with an Apple Mac can get more power AND fuel economy AND reliability out of the engines than the combined might of Land Rover, BMW, Bosch & all the motor industry analysis. Maybe he just knows how to kick more s**t into the atmosphere.
Grumpy by name! Placebo.
Skinny Mike
Well-Known Member
Nice and grumpy, keep it up.
What I can do, after I've run it for a couple of months, I can post the mpg (as I'm sad enough to record every tank of fuel) weather its good or bad. Although mines a td4 and yours is an L.
As for the emmisions, the M.O.T isn't until November, but if we still care I can post the results to see what the difference is.
Mike
lenny1234
Active Member
You need to pump in more air as well to get a lot more power. All extra fuel will do is a little more power for a lot more smoke
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Removed the A Bar, so I could pull the drivers side of the bumper away, so I could remove the headlight, so I could remove the washer bottle hose & adapter, so I could remove the ABS Unit.
Achieve that and also managed to get an epic amount of brake fluid all over the car while swapping the ABS Unit over! Few choice words as my plans for stopping fluid spillage failed completely
Cleared it up as best I could and the replacement unit has gone in, but ran out of light to complete putting it all back together and bleeding - so is it golf or bleeding the brakes tomorrow? Decisions decisions.
Also went and had a look at a K Series today... Land Rover Freelander 1.8 XEI 1998 | Trade Me
Really nice bodywork and interior. Needs a rear muffler and drivers side engine mount, repairs to front lights. The engine wouldn't run - it turned over and fired but immediately died. He said its been standing for 2 1/2 years so may be bad fuel, however, I suspect its got HG problems. The bottle was empty and the oil was brownish - maybe grey - I'm RG colour blind so couldn't tell you the exact colour - but it wasn't black! I suspect 3 Amigos as well - its been ages since I didn't have 3 Amigoes on mine so can't remember exactly - but I'm sure all the TC/HDC lights should go out after a few seconds then the ABB after you start moving - but all 4 came up to start with and only 1 HDC went out leaving all three still lit.
I'm sure there's probably lots of other stuff that would be found, it wouldn't drive so couldn't test gearbox/clutch (cheapest gearbox I've found in NZ is £400 to give you an idea of what this thing might end up costing) didn't try windows etc, but the rear window did go up/down OK and the fishbowl was dry with no signs of ever having been wet. I did jack it up and try a back wheel - which moved a bit as the free play was taken up (so brakes weren't binding) but then resistance - so that looks good even if the VCU may need attention.
Have to recon on quite a bit of engine work and see what it goes up to. In good nick its worth about $4K (£2K).
Achieve that and also managed to get an epic amount of brake fluid all over the car while swapping the ABS Unit over! Few choice words as my plans for stopping fluid spillage failed completely
Cleared it up as best I could and the replacement unit has gone in, but ran out of light to complete putting it all back together and bleeding - so is it golf or bleeding the brakes tomorrow? Decisions decisions.
Also went and had a look at a K Series today... Land Rover Freelander 1.8 XEI 1998 | Trade Me
Really nice bodywork and interior. Needs a rear muffler and drivers side engine mount, repairs to front lights. The engine wouldn't run - it turned over and fired but immediately died. He said its been standing for 2 1/2 years so may be bad fuel, however, I suspect its got HG problems. The bottle was empty and the oil was brownish - maybe grey - I'm RG colour blind so couldn't tell you the exact colour - but it wasn't black! I suspect 3 Amigos as well - its been ages since I didn't have 3 Amigoes on mine so can't remember exactly - but I'm sure all the TC/HDC lights should go out after a few seconds then the ABB after you start moving - but all 4 came up to start with and only 1 HDC went out leaving all three still lit.
I'm sure there's probably lots of other stuff that would be found, it wouldn't drive so couldn't test gearbox/clutch (cheapest gearbox I've found in NZ is £400 to give you an idea of what this thing might end up costing) didn't try windows etc, but the rear window did go up/down OK and the fishbowl was dry with no signs of ever having been wet. I did jack it up and try a back wheel - which moved a bit as the free play was taken up (so brakes weren't binding) but then resistance - so that looks good even if the VCU may need attention.
Have to recon on quite a bit of engine work and see what it goes up to. In good nick its worth about $4K (£2K).
