thebluemax
Active Member
today did an oil and filter change and replaced the air filter, cant do the turbo vent filter as it ain't arrived by royal fail yet. was going to change the fuel filter but looking at service book it was changed ay 106k then also at 118k, I am now at 123k so no worries! seams a bit excessive but hey, it saves me doing the crap job.
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
Cleaned her to within an inch of her life and put her up for sale
I assume you mean the car...
Richard Martin
Well-Known Member
Checked the tyre pressures and fluids, topped up the screen wash
thebluemax
Active Member
Fitted the turbo vent, now to contemplate the thermostat problem, btw now developed a clunking noise going over slightly rough roads (that will be all of the west midlands then) so will have to get the suspension looked at near the weekend.....oh dear:frown:
pardec
Active Member
Probably thee drop links. Cheap and easy fix, 20 minute job
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
Getting another gaylander next weekend.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Getting another gaylander next weekend.
Haven't seen you round these parts much lately. You're Freelander been to reliable so you need to get one with a few faults? You ain't had the current one that long.
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
Not been much, no. Can't get on face ache either but that's not a massive loss...
Getting a cheap fixer upper for the Mrs, early td4 ES 3dr. Needs prop shaft back on, brake light switch, tax, wing mirror, boot handle and a bloody good clean but for a hundred quid with a 60k mile re con engine its worth a punt!
tonytherunner
Active Member
Modified engine shield,...last time I put in four screws provisional caught...
....now is permanently...6mm thickness
....now is permanently...6mm thickness
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DastardlyDan
Active Member
Had a productive morning.
Step 1 - ride up on some ramps (dear god, why did I never buy any before, so much easier!)
Step 2 - make sure you chock the rear wheels, in my case, with a holset turbine housing
crawl under, and laugh at your gearchange linkage that's sloppier than porridge made with water....
(click for vid)
Smack the rollpin out, and cut a groove into the selector, then refit with a nut+bolt to clamp it down nice and tight.
Sloppy gearshift - no more!
And to solve my knackered header tank - threw on the old one from my Rover 220SD.
Does the job :lol:
Step 1 - ride up on some ramps (dear god, why did I never buy any before, so much easier!)
Step 2 - make sure you chock the rear wheels, in my case, with a holset turbine housing
crawl under, and laugh at your gearchange linkage that's sloppier than porridge made with water....
(click for vid)
Smack the rollpin out, and cut a groove into the selector, then refit with a nut+bolt to clamp it down nice and tight.
Sloppy gearshift - no more!
And to solve my knackered header tank - threw on the old one from my Rover 220SD.
Does the job :lol:
uktiger79
New Member
Gave my fakelander a good wash and polish, she sparkles now.
Also changed the LP fuel pump and filter. Not too bad a job, but then some ####, who had her before, rounded off the nuts on the skillet. Thankfully there are two bolts inside that you can undo to drop it. Also had the intake manifold off and cleaned that, cleaned the egr and the map sensor. I just hope it's cured my lack of power problem.
Also changed the LP fuel pump and filter. Not too bad a job, but then some ####, who had her before, rounded off the nuts on the skillet. Thankfully there are two bolts inside that you can undo to drop it. Also had the intake manifold off and cleaned that, cleaned the egr and the map sensor. I just hope it's cured my lack of power problem.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Had a productive morning.
Step 1 - ride up on some ramps (dear god, why did I never buy any before, so much easier!)
Step 2 - make sure you chock the rear wheels, in my case, with a holset turbine housing
Happy you sorted out your sloppy gear change but I would be very careful of using those ramps in the future, they do not look sturdy enough to me, and try to make sure you choc as a bit more height, safety first at all times working on cars please.
Halfords sell some good strong ramps the orange ones in the photo' below those tiny blue one are mainly for small cars in my opinion.
As I say thank you for sharing how you fixed your sloppy gear change
Attachments
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Went to change my ABS pump - it's a replacement for my original that failed 3 years ago. I removed the 2 main electrical connectors OK. The third clips to the side didn't actually have a clip - I bought it from a Freelander breakers and they fitted it as well. They presumably broke the clip removing it from the original car so they wedged it between the pump and a brake pipe facing upwards. Now most connectors are tight fitting - but this one has ridges around the outside of the plug so there's also gaps, and as it was facing upwards water must have got in and and just sat in it. Result is that its completely locked solid. So squirted some WD40 into it and went for a round of golf.
Hopefully I can separate it tomorrow. It might also explain the problem as well because I'm sure they are the shuttle valve wires and its shuttle valve codes I'm getting.
Hopefully I can separate it tomorrow. It might also explain the problem as well because I'm sure they are the shuttle valve wires and its shuttle valve codes I'm getting.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Modified my under tray so it can be removed with out taking out the alloy metal surround.
Now I only have to remove the plastic part of the under tray.
When I have to do an oil change or inspect the lower engine I now only have to remove 8 stainless steel screws 2 rear, 2 front and 2 either side, then just lower the plastic part of the under tray
Now I only have to remove the plastic part of the under tray.
When I have to do an oil change or inspect the lower engine I now only have to remove 8 stainless steel screws 2 rear, 2 front and 2 either side, then just lower the plastic part of the under tray
baptista
Active Member
When I have to do an oil change or inspect the lower engine I now only have to remove 8 stainless steel screws 2 rear, 2 front and 2 either side, then just lower the plastic part of the under tray
so now you have to remove 8 screws instead of 12...
that does not seem so much improvement besides when you remove the whole sump access is much better. But fine for me if it works for you.
bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
I've never had a problem taking the sump plate off in one piece mysen, five minutes either end of the job in my eggsperience...
