htr said:
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.



:)
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Excellent. I originally followed this route on my rally Freelander using silicone and steel pipe but it entered a modified Disco 1 air intake box where the battery should be .(battery relocated in the rear of the vehicle behind drivers seat)
Been asked by loads of people if I made a raised air intake for the Td4, i.e. for the drivers side. However, I've tried to convince the TD4 owners that this route really is the way to go rather than having the air coming in from above the drivers door, all the way through the drivers wing, the into the bay, round the front of the engine to the passenger side and down the side of the engine to finally enter at the rear. Some were less than convinced as it involved modifying their nice plastic ducting.
However, when revamping my silver TD4's engine bay I decided for a quick option and it really works well. Especially since I have a nice big intercooler :D And I can still wade pretty deep too.
But this has left the raised intake on the side of the motor somewhat redundant. Looks good though so leaving it in place.........
 

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Got the last part required for my custom slave battery installation, just got to fit it all now ... will do the obligatory photos etc.
 
unstuck both front calipers, and installed new mintex brake discs and pads with britpart brake capiler sliders. feels miles better!
 
Oil and filter changed. Halfords 10-40 Semi-Syn(Buy one get one half price on 5 ltr. at the mo) The sump plug washer in the Mann filter from Euro parts was too small, so had to improvise with a spare I had in the toolbox. Then changed the air filter and couldn't get the hex bolts at the back of the engine cover to line up. Filter seemed slightly taller than the one that came out but got there in the end.

Not sure I will buy Mann again.
 
Bought a set of "new" winter tyres as the old ones was a bit worn.. Only used half a season, the rims are not very nice, but good enough for winter tyres. :)

The Expensivelander is still stationary due to he cam belt issue though, hope to have it fixed soon. Most of the parts have now arrived, gaskets, belts etc.

vinterdekk_zps8ea6772a.jpg
 
htr said:
CAF completed and guard on.

Click to expand...
That's a tidy job, that tyre has seen better days though...

I'm surprised how much room is above that plastic wheel arch liner could be fitting larger tyres on there by removing them
 
RO51 said:
That's a tidy job, that tyre has seen better days though...

I'm surprised how much room is above that plastic wheel arch liner could be fitting larger tyres on there by removing them
Click to expand...

I was looking at my motor today thinking along those lines. I don't think up/down space is the limiting size factor on tyres - its the front door/A pillar on the front wheels and the rear door for the back wheels (at least on the 5 door)
 
GrumpyGel said:
I was looking at my motor today thinking along those lines. I don't think up/down space is the limiting size factor on tyres - its the front door/A pillar on the front wheels and the rear door for the back wheels (at least on the 5 door)
Click to expand...

^^^what he said ^^^
The rears are ok as they only move up and down, although removing the rear mud flaps is a wise move . But the fronts have to turn which is where the problem lies. On mine I had to remove the lower part of the mud shield , lower wing arch and hammer in the seam where the sides of the vehicle meet the bulkhead. Even then the space when the wheels are turned is only a couple of mm. However, this is running aggressive tread 205/80/16 tyres. AT tyres won't cause so much of a headache.
 
Had a mobile aircon guy out today to sort out the Hippo, fortunately there were no leaks in the system and following the procedure it's now blowing icy cold in the cabin, just in time for the change in weather! Lol
 
Had the 235 70 16 Mitchelin 4x4 fitted all round
No problems with rubbing yet, despite the earlier alloys with slightly less offset.

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Also got the leather rear seats in and all the matching door cards - pics to follow!

Next to follow HTR's example and go for a raised intake too (or possibly swap over to the 'known good' VCU I've just been given) and then the lift kit. In fact, probably not in that order at all...
 
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The Docmeister said:
Had the 235 70 16 Mitchelin 4x4 fitted all round
No problems with rubbing yet, despite the earlier alloys with slightly less offset.

http://s193.photobucket.com/user/The_Docmeister/media/DSC_0022.jpg.html][IMG]http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/

Also got the leather rear seats in and the matching door cards - pics to follow!

Hmm.. New phone and Photobucket not quite working in harmony![/QUOTE]


Looks good, was lifted something from what I see :D.....
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Fitted 03 steering wheel with audio controls to my 99 L-series. Only issue is horn switch is between pin 6 & 4(marked on connector) on the 99. On the 03 horn switch is between pin 4 & 3. Used a short piano wire to rearrange the pins.

The audio controls are now fitted to pin 5 & 3 and 1 & 2 on my 99.

Getting closer to fit the 03 dash with 06 double din console w/7" Android unit.
 
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