thizzlemania91
Active Member
I followed his every step and it came out perfect
you just have to use a hex T8, an aux stereo switch, and an ethernet cable cord with 5 wires (most have 8 single wires) and some good ol soldering skills.heres a link
Adding a selectable AUX input to a single CD Player (Visteon 6500 model) - Australian Land Rover Owners
ThomasDK
Active Member
Common in that place, and few others. Easy to cure
Thought so, and thanks... The same goes with passenger back door, bottom that is (5 door model), and sill on the right of back door, by any chance...? Fuel tank guard is a mess too...
Winu
Active Member
i got some bubbles on sill under rear door too, but this is only a paint fall. Few guys report problem in that area - probably some factory fault. When you remove it and clean it's solid clean metal under.
Use some wrench and knock - if you sound a metal - no big deal.
All doors are clean, just make sure that drain holes are clean. Also i filled doors with wax.
Situation under wheel arches was also pretty good just few spots of rust - mainly surface.
Not bad for 14yrs old car. All cleaned up, treated with rust chemistry, and painted with body protector.
Remove tail door seal from flange (lower part) and cure rust spots,
also remove glass finisher and clean rusty spots. And of course handle.
Use some wrench and knock - if you sound a metal - no big deal.
All doors are clean, just make sure that drain holes are clean. Also i filled doors with wax.
Situation under wheel arches was also pretty good just few spots of rust - mainly surface.
Not bad for 14yrs old car. All cleaned up, treated with rust chemistry, and painted with body protector.
Remove tail door seal from flange (lower part) and cure rust spots,
also remove glass finisher and clean rusty spots. And of course handle.
htr
Well-Known Member
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.
Last edited:
jedi
Well-Known Member
Excellent work! Loving the pipe workAll stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.
Dangermike
Active Member
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.
That's awesome! Does it fit snugly to the the engine?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
All stock 65mm PVC down pipe parts - 3 x 90º and 2 x 45º. I used short sections of plain pipe for internal joiners. I did have to shorten the two joining sockets at the bottom of the U. The 45º bend goes over the guard support bracket which I had to nibble a piece off. The brown area is where I heated the pipe which I stuffed with rags and put a gentle bend to aline it with the bodywork. The rags help to stop it kinking / wrinkling. The end 45º is possibly optional. You can see why I think a snorkel kit is a natural addition with this. Now have to work out how to support / attach this to the inner wing.
Looking good. I would turn the end 45º pipe downward and away from the boby so you can fit the ram pipe included in the kit.
But otherwise, that is looking spot on
ThomasDK
Active Member
Sounds good all in all - yes, mine isn't new either, so guess it's what I (Freelander owners) have to live with. Will look at those particular places you mention. Got it booked in for a full (double) wax and underbody treatment in two weeks
NeilTD4
Active Member
...found rust in the back door, at the bottom
Mine is rusty along the bottom, mainly along the seam and it's rusting around the centre mounting of the rear handle
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
htr
Well-Known Member
The original intake level approx' matches the the lower edge of the inner guard's box section. I could shorten the pipe and as you suggest flare it above the wheel, doing away with that 45º. My original pipe had a longish diagonal cut I could refit that instead of the 45º and invert it to avoid any water dripping in. May need to reheat that bend and get the whole deal pointing upward a bit more.
Last edited:
NoDosh
Active Member
GKN VCU and FAG propshaft bearings arrived today. Just ordered a set of Continental CrossContact AT in 215/80/15..... The build commences
http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/tyre-details.aspx?id=66
http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/tyre-details.aspx?id=66
