Grayo
Active Member
Changed the front brake pads today, they could have gone on for another couple of months but seeing as I already had new pads in the garage and I was in the mood why not. LOL Just got to find out where the bl@@dy water is getting in on the rear door seal now doh.
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Today i have fitted the rear lights that are white/red and to replace the orange red ones lol
i have fitted a new center console the one where the window switches are and i have wired all the windows up to the switches in the console
now on the hunt for a cheap blank for my dash ooo also ordered an ABS pump today aswell
i have fitted a new center console the one where the window switches are and i have wired all the windows up to the switches in the console
now on the hunt for a cheap blank for my dash ooo also ordered an ABS pump today aswell
chrisbramley
New Member
I have added running boards, rear tints (in case I leave climbing gear etc in there), DRL, and a new backbox replacing that ghastly huge twin pipe affair with a smooth slimline normal one 
Some bloody idiot had WELDED it on with inch thick steel so I had to cut the bolt off with an angle grinder.
It's also been economy chipped.
Apart from possibly rewiring the tail lights (I do not like the order) and putting bigger profile tyres on (separate thread for question there launched!) that will likely do.
Some bloody idiot had WELDED it on with inch thick steel so I had to cut the bolt off with an angle grinder.It's also been economy chipped.
Apart from possibly rewiring the tail lights (I do not like the order) and putting bigger profile tyres on (separate thread for question there launched!) that will likely do.
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bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
Mot'd it. Only one advisory for a CV gaiter :tea:
Changed the expansion tank for a new 1 with the new cap! Much much much better now! what a difference something little can make lol I'm in love again haha
Oh and took it to a jet wash and spent 15 mins cleaning the **** off it! Most of the time on my knees doing the underside of it lol I think it's about 50kg lighter now lol
what a difference something little can make lol I'm in love again haha Oh and took it to a jet wash and spent 15 mins cleaning the **** off it! Most of the time on my knees doing the underside of it lol I think it's about 50kg lighter now lol
Grayo
Active Member
Tackled the leaking tailgate door. Moved the receiver for the lock back about 3mm cleaned all the seal and where the seal meets the door with silicon spray. Hopefully this will stop the leak.
I also did the EGR blank mod today, wasn't as bad as what I was expecting. The air manifold also wasn't as bad as what some of the others have had but I gave it a good clean with Mr Muscle, then used paraffin, then used hot water with pleanty of fairy liquid in it. It came up like brand new so well pleased with that.
Put it all back together and started the engine all went well until I stopped the engine and I had the dying duck noise, so just waiting for the pipe and peg to arrive from Dazjam, hopefully tomorrow and I can get that on and my duck will be cooked lol.
Grayo
I also did the EGR blank mod today, wasn't as bad as what I was expecting. The air manifold also wasn't as bad as what some of the others have had but I gave it a good clean with Mr Muscle, then used paraffin, then used hot water with pleanty of fairy liquid in it. It came up like brand new so well pleased with that.
Put it all back together and started the engine all went well until I stopped the engine and I had the dying duck noise, so just waiting for the pipe and peg to arrive from Dazjam, hopefully tomorrow and I can get that on and my duck will be cooked lol.
Grayo
sparkysbandit
Active Member
took of spare wheel carrier and sprayed it
looks a lot better now
looks a lot better now
Grayo
Active Member
Me too, I moved the lock receiver back today about 3mm to try and get a better seal.
Changed the expansion tank for a new 1 with the new cap! Much much much better now!
Oh and took it to a jet wash and spent 15 mins cleaning the **** off it! Most of the time on my knees doing the underside of it lol I think it's about 50kg lighter now lol
some pics for you
Attachments
Freelaner
Landy Driver
Is that O.A.T coolant?
baptista
Active Member
changed spill return fuel injection pipes
instead of 4x £2.79 (VAT not inc) on the OEM parts (3x MSP100850L +1x MSP100840L), spent €1.78 on 2 feet of 3,2x7 Rubber Fuel Hose and cut it to size.
love that "MacGyver feeling" of using alternatives to standard parts on DIYs
instead of 4x £2.79 (VAT not inc) on the OEM parts (3x MSP100850L +1x MSP100840L), spent €1.78 on 2 feet of 3,2x7 Rubber Fuel Hose and cut it to size.
love that "MacGyver feeling" of using alternatives to standard parts on DIYs
sijwhite
Active Member
:scratching_chin: It's meant to be pink isn't it?.
Antifreeze Types
Automotive antifreeze/coolant is made of ethylene glycol, water, and a chemical additive package. For many years, there was only one type of antifreeze on the market, conventional green. Antifreeze technology, however, has become significantly more complex in the last several years with the introduction of Dexcool and other extended life antifreeze formulas. There are three main types of antifreeze on the market. They all contain an ethylene glycol base, water, dye and an additive package. Colored dye is added for leak detection and is not a reliable way of identifying coolant type. The additive package is what makes them different.
Conventional green antifreeze formulations usually contain a number of inorganic corrosion inhibitors that provide immediate corrosion protection because they maintain the pH of the solution (buffer it), but are consumed or transformed chemically as they perform their functions. As the coolant is heated and cooled, and exposed to air, the components of the conventional antifreeze additive package are depleted over time. This causes the pH to drop, and is why the coolant should be changed out every two years or 24,000 miles.
Dexcool-type extended life coolants use organic acid technology to inhibit corrosion, and are referred to as OAT based coolants. OAT antifreezes are touted as having longer potential service life than conventional antifreezes because of the fact that the components in the additive package are not chemically consumed as they perform their function of inhibiting corrosion. The chemicals used in the OAT type formulas protect metals from corrosion by forming a thin, molecular coating on them, and because of this, are not as fast acting as conventional inorganic formulas. However, as long as the cooling system is kept sufficiently full and coolant is not lost due to leakage nor diluted by top-off with water or conventional antifreeze, it will continue to function properly. Unfortunately, if the cooling system is not properly maintained, a “red muck” is likely to form and could cause serious cooling system problems.
The third type of antifreeze on the market today is the hybrid OAT, known as HOAT (or G O-5). One of the primary problems with OAT formulations is that they are not compatible with conventional antifreezes. The chemicals used in OAT antifreeze react to some extent with some of the inorganic salts and other components in conventional antifreeze. The result of this interaction is the generation of cloudiness and precipitates. HOAT formulations are called hybrid because the additive package contains ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas and is compatible with both.
Hybrid OAT antifreezes provide both fast acting and extended life corrosion protection, eliminate the problem of anti- freeze compatibility, and therefore are compatible with all types and colors of antifreeze.
Unfortunately, many automotive professionals consider all extended life antifreeze to be “Dexcool” and associate all the problems related to “Dexcool” with both OAT and HOAT formulas. The result of this misconception is often replacing the extended life coolant with conventional green. Industry experts say that this can be done safely if all of the green antifreeze is removed from the system. However, auto manufacturers recommend specific formulations and replacing the factory fill coolant with a different type that doesn’t meet the manufacturer’s specifications could cause liability issues down the road. A much safer solution is to replace OAT systems with HOAT coolant which meets OAT specifications.
In the Cooling System
Regardless of the type of antifreeze used, the additive package will eventually break down and cease to provide adequate corrosion protection. The antifreeze will also pick up contaminants from the engine cooling system. In other words, antifreeze wears out and gets dirty. The service life for conventional green antifreeze is 2 years or 24,000 miles, and for OAT and HOAT is 5 years or 150,000 miles, and the manufacturers recommend fluid replacement at these intervals. However, although the antifreeze loses its corrosion protection and picks up contaminants, the ethylene glycol base does not break down and remains intact. In other words, the ethylene glycol retains its ability to lower the freeze point and raise the boiling point of the solution. This simple fact is the basis for the antifreeze recycling industry.
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